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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

6432 messages, Last post on Nov 07, 2009 at 4:46 PM
You are in the Honda CR-V Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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| tilt wheel problems with honda CR-V, lever won't lock the wheel and it moves while driving | |
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Replying to: blueiedgod (Oct 13, 2009 8:56 am) Check the voltage at the offending refulator. See if there is any corrosion, or an object preventing the window from moving in its tracks. It could be as simple as a failed switch, or broken wire. Thanks, blueiedgod. You are pointing at the right direct. Finally I got a chance to get a voltage meter and found the wire to the regulator doesn't have any voltage at all. Next step I will check the wire, but it seems it is hard to follow the wires. I will try. If anyone has any good hints on how to make checking the wires easier, I would love to hear your advice. Thanks |
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Hi guys... I have been puzzled about what happened to my 97 CR-V. I was driving, everything was running perfectly, and then suddenly the engine just died. Boom, just like that. No noises, no other indications of any problems. It just stopped, as if I turned off the ignition. I had to tow it back to my house, where it's been sitting for a while now. I don't have a lot of money, but I need to get it fixed. Obviously one of the causes could have been the fuel pump dying. My battery's now dead, but at the time it was fine. The engine turned when I tried to start it but it otherwise just didn't start. What other reasons could have caused the car to die? Whatever you guys can tell me will help me decide if I fix it, or junk it. Thanks in advance for your help here. |
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Replying to: roger821 (Nov 04, 2009 5:52 am) Has the ignition switch recall been performed? Are there any outstanding recalls? The frist two can be easily asnwered by logging into Honda Owners link on www.honda.com Just have the VIN handy. If you get nowhere there. Check fuel pressure. Is the fuel pump on (you should hear it make noise for 30 seconds or so when you first turn on the ignition. Is fule filter clean? Is there spark? Is distributor working? Are contacts worn out? Are wires intact? Is the ignition coil producing the voltage needed for th spark... you don't have to have a lot of money to do the trouble shooting your self. For an engine to run you need Air, Fuel and Spark, all in the right proportions and correct times. Get your self a Helms Honda Shop manual and work from there. Once you isolate the problem, replace the offending part, rather than just throwing parts at it. Good luck.
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Replying to: blueiedgod (Nov 04, 2009 10:06 am) Thanks for the input. I got the ignition switch replaced in 2002, right after the recall was announced. Funny thing is, the car behaved just like what the recall indicated - the car just cut out in the middle of traffic, no warning. Only thing was, it never started up again. The recall said the ignition switch outages could be erratic and unpredictable. So we'll see what happens. First thing, I need to get a new battery in it. Then, I can do the troubleshooting you described. Problem is I don't have the tools I once had that I could use to fix this myself (my tools were stolen in a burglary). I can do the basic troubleshooting, but if I had to R&R the fuel tank to get to the fuel pump, then I'm screwed. And, just for your reference, I have the official Honda shop manual for this model year.
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Replying to: roger821 (Nov 04, 2009 10:26 am) first the battery you can get from Autozone, their Duralast batteries are now made by Johnson Controls. Same people who make Honda's batteries, same insides too. But for a lower price, gotta love that. (Honda dealer's are always overpriced). Just make sure to load test the new battery before you install it. To make sure it's not a dud. never know could happen, better to test before. Ever think that the ignition switch IS the problem? Just because it was recalled, doesn't mean the new one wouldn't die the same way. Your thoughts/instincts are correct that it acted just like the recall, definitely listen to them, that's probably where you should start first. Since you have the service manual, then you can use that to diagnose with a multimeter the ignition switch. A multimeter, if you don't have one, is like $3.99 at harbor freight. |
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Hello: About a month ago I was rear-ended and had the back door replaced by a body shop. Now the door open indicator and trunk light flicker when going over bumps. Rather than going back to the body shop I would like to replace the switch myself - I have seen the service bulletins addressing the issue. How hard is the switch to get to?
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Replying to: fussycrvowner (Nov 06, 2009 6:40 am) |
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Replying to: roger821 (Nov 04, 2009 5:52 am) |
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Replying to: fussycrvowner (Nov 06, 2009 6:40 am) I had the CRV for 8 months and sold it last night - too many problems. |
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