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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

3260 messages,  Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 8:34 AM

You are in the Hyundai Elantra Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Hyundai Elantra, Hatchback, Sedan


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#3101 of 3260
Do not trust CarFax for accuracy by jlflemmons
Jan 10, 2009 (11:59 am)
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I got the CarFax report on a hard to find vehicle and it showed no problems, no wrecks. The car needed some sound system work which required the interior panels to be removed, revealing that the entire side of the car, from the top to the bottom, drivers door to tail lights, had been replaced. I would consider this to be "major body damage", yet there was no record of it. The selling dealer claimed no knowlege as the CarFax report was clear.
 
In my personal opinion, a CarFax report is not worth the paper it is printed on.
#3104 of 3260
New rear brakes at 41k? by backy
Feb 02, 2009 (8:50 am)
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I took my '04 GT in for an oil change today and to adjust the parking brake. Service guy said the rear disc brakes were at 10%. I was a little surprised by that, since I'm easy on the brakes, but had the work done. Does that seem unusual to anyone else that the rear brake pads should need replacing so soon?
 
At least the oil change was free. Also I had them check the hatch struts, which don't support the hatch nearly as well as they used to. They have ordered replacements, covered under warranty--which is up in 2 months. At least the powertrain warranty has another 5 years and 58k miles to go. Will take my son almost all the way through college.
#3105 of 3260
Re: New rear brakes at 41k? [backy] by BambuListener
Feb 02, 2009 (10:37 am)
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Replying to: backy (Feb 02, 2009 8:50 am)

I have a 2004 Elantra GLS, and was told that the rears are at 20%. One thing which people don't often realize is that your brake pad usage is impacted by how well your wheels are aligned. If your wheels are even slightly misaligned (very easy to happen on Elantras), the break pads will go down much faster due to pattern of use.
#3106 of 3260
Re: New rear brakes at 41k? [backy] by jlflemmons
Feb 02, 2009 (10:48 am)
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Replying to: backy (Feb 02, 2009 8:50 am)

Backy, that is not unusual at all, actually pretty good. The rear pads are organic, ie not semi-metallic and wear faster. Coupled with the fact that they are really small, 35 to 40K is about all you can hope for.
 
When I changed the rears on my '05, I tried to get semi-metallic but found that no one made anything but organic for that application.
 
Side note: When changing the rear pads on these, the piston doesn't just push back in. You need a special tool (available at Harbor Freight for like $3) that attaches to a 3/8 ratchet and allows you to push while turning the piston. For want of a better term, they sort of screw back in.
 
Very simple brake job, takes less than an hour for both sides.
#3107 of 3260
Re: New rear brakes at 41k? [jlflemmons] by backy
Feb 02, 2009 (1:56 pm)
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Feb 02, 2009 10:48 am)

Thanks for the info. Since high temps are in the single digits F and my garage isn't heated (excuses excuses), I decided to let the dealer handle it. Anyway, it's been many years since I did any brake work and that was on drums. Hopefully that will be the only major thing it needs until the 60k service--which won't be for another 3 years at the rate we're going. Aside from a few small dings and a salty driver's floor mat, the car still looks (and drives) like new.
#3108 of 3260
Re: Headlights Out On Passenger Side Only [GuitarGuy] by GuitarGuy
Feb 09, 2009 (4:09 pm)
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Replying to: GuitarGuy (Dec 06, 2008 4:40 pm)

Well, it's been a few months, but I've finally discovered my problem. It was a common ground (makes sense, huh?) ... my headlamp assembly tended to fog up and it seems that the ground pin of the wiring block within the headlamp assembly had rusted away. I researched the proper part number (# 92150-2D500) , then installed the new wiring harness/block and I was back in business ... sort of. Hyundai's "Better Idea" was to use the same part on multiple vehicle/years (kudos for their foresight, especially if it's passed on to consumers in savings!). The problem is that the ground connection for the hi-beam lamp was not the right size! Hyundai must have gone smaller in newer models, so I had to cut the connector off and crimp on a new larger sized connection. Not a real biggie for me, fortunately, since I was at a shop with lots of supplies including a selection of crimp-on electrical connectors ... just forewarning you all ... check this out if you're expecting everything to snap right into place ... NOT on the 2002 Elantra! Great forum ... thanks again to Doohickie!
#3109 of 3260
Opinions of 2000 Hyundai Elantra GLS sedan by lhy
Feb 14, 2009 (3:02 am)
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I am thinking about buying a used 2000 Hyundai Elantra GLS sedan (automatic transmission). It has about 76K miles and is selling for $3200.
 
I was wondering what people's opinions of this model are and how much repairs usually cost.
 
I have read on reviews for this car on websites like CarSurvey.org or KBB.com. They seem to suggest that repairs are usually expensive and that the car has problems with the transmission and interior issues like the power windows not working.
 
What are people's opinion on these things?
 
http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/hyundai/elantra/2000/
 
http://www.kbb.com/KBB/UsedCars/ConsumerRatings/2000_Hyundai_Elantra_Sedan_Priva- te%20Party_Good.aspx?Mileage=76400
#3110 of 3260
Re: Opinions of 2000 Hyundai Elantra GLS sedan [lhy] by BambuListener
Feb 14, 2009 (12:05 pm)
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Replying to: lhy (Feb 14, 2009 3:02 am)

The sites you linked to give interesting feedback, but honestly, you need more extensive stats to draw any conclusions - and even then, exceptions always happen, so you should always examine the particular car carefully.
 
For more extensive stats, you can look at Consumer Reports. I can't link to it, as it's for subscribers only, but I can summarize some of the findings for the Elantra 2000.
 
CR rates things Better--->Above Average----->Average----->Below Average---->Worse
 
For the Elantra 2000, it lists categories of:
 
1)Engine Minor - Worse Than Average
2)Engine Major - Better Than Average
 
So it means, you'll have some minor engine problems, but no major engine problems - not good, IMHO.
 
3)Transmission Major - Worse
4)Transmission Minor - Worse Than Average
 
This is bad - real bad. Transmissions are very, very expensive to fix. I'd stop considering the car just based on this, frankly.
 
5)Drive System - Worse
 
That's it, game over, IMHO.
 
6)Fuel System - Average
 
Also not good - you want better than average.
 
Other problem areas: paint/trim, body hardware.
 
Overall verdict - Average.
 
Personally, I'd stay away. You want most of the categories Better or Better Than Average. Here, most are Average or Worse Than Average.
 
You don't want an Average rating overall - you want Better Than Average.
 
Just based on the transmission, I'd run. Sure you can get lucky and get a car that will never have a problem, but you gotta look at the numbers. There's no way to tell if a transmission will have a problem ahead of time (you can examine fluid, but a dealer will change the fluid so even that can't tell you much). If you know that the trannies on this model are bad - that's too big a risk. You won't fix it for much under $1000 should you develop a problem, more likely $1200-1400. Too risky.
 
In summary, I'd look elsewhere. Of course, all IMHO.

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