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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

3260 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 8:34 AM
You are in the Hyundai Elantra Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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I'm a new member ... what a great forum! My issue is that the passenger side headlights lights, both hi and lo beam (but not the running lights) have stopped working on my '02 Elantra - the drivers side works fine. I reviewed the thread from Nov. 2007 (#2892 +/-) and have checked all fuses that seemed appropriate in both the engine compartment fuse block and the interior one under the ashtray. When checking voltage on the lo beam socket, I get a reading of 5.6v, not the 12.1v that I would have expected and I measured directly off the battery. I've yet to pursue the defective relay angle. This "one-sided" issue strikes me as really weird (tho I don't claim by any means to be an auto mechanic). Both "jlflemmons" and "doohickie" have offered some great help on similar issues (tho the link to the electrical diagram is no longer functional, at least on my computer) and I do appreciate the link to Hyundai WebTech, doohickie, should I need to use it to resolve this. Any assistance in nailing this issue down would be most appreciated. Jim
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I own a '02 Hyundai Elantra with about 120,000 miles on it. I keep reading the recommendation to replace the timing belt at 60K miles? What's with that? I'm 52 and have only had one car in my life time that needed it's timing belt replaced (and I've pushed a bunch of cars to 150,000 miles and beyond.) Is there some rationale out there?? Is Hyundai known for notoriously poor timing belts that break prematurely or what? I must have been lucky so far! That's got to be a repair of $500 or more ... ouch! Jim
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Replying to: GuitarGuy (Dec 06, 2008 4:49 pm) A friend's son has an Audi and he is looking at $3800 +/- because his timing belt broke. |
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Replying to: GuitarGuy (Dec 06, 2008 4:49 pm) BTW, Hyundai is not the only manufacturer that recommends replacing rubber timing belts at 60k miles. |
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Replying to: bad_clutch (Nov 30, 2008 3:47 pm) http://www.velocide.com/clutch-mod.php Do as it says, remove the restrictor plate and through it just as far as you can. My mechanic talked to both a local import specialist and the clutch tech at the local Hyundai dealer. As soon as he said clutch problem both of then told him to do exactly this before he even asked about it. So the dealers must know of this issue but it is doubtful they would tell you about it if you did ask. They will tell you that you were hard on the clutch and then replace it, but they probably will not tell you that they completely flushed the hydraulic clutch system to remove whatever particles are in it. My mechanic surmises that whatever it was (I found a TSB from an earlier year warning about a condition that caused a restriction in the hydraulic line from grease used during assembly) worked its way to the restrictor plate where it ultimately lodged. This kept the clutch from completely engaging but not enough slippage so that the engine would rev. And this would occur every time the clutch was let out. He said that when he went to remove the plate something white and mostly round shot out and hit him in the face. Unfortunately he couldn't find whatever it was. My money is on whatever they used on the threads of the hydraulic line fittings. Also after removing the plate the clutch became much more positive and felt like a real clutch. Prior to removing the plate every time you tried taking off in 1st gear the clutch would chatter so bad that the entire car would shake. He did not even have to replace clutch #3, just removed the plate, no more chatter or shaking. Last but not least I will stand by my assertion of poor design. Anytime you attempt to take control of clutch engagement away from the operator it's a bad idea. If you can't shift a standard get an automatic.
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Replying to: bad_clutch (Dec 12, 2008 10:32 am) He can be an excellent mechanic but still do something incorrectly when performing work on something he is not familiar with. |
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This morning one of the heating fans on the passenger side of the car starting clicking. Sounded like it was right behind the glove box. It didnt click until I was driving aobut 10 minutes. My first thought is to tear into it to see what could be wrong. Any experience on how to get to the fan or possible reasons for the clicking? Allan
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Replying to: albo2325 (Dec 16, 2008 11:45 am) |
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The lights by the heater, blower and air direction setting knobs do not work anymore. Any advise?
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Replying to: inharmsway (Dec 17, 2008 11:26 am)
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