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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair

2196 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 1:37 PM
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First Forgive me if this has been asked / answered already. Keep in mind all repair made by dealer... In last year- have had to replace: - moonroof -(bad motor): -door switches (stopped working); -a pulley (loud squelching); -Onstar;--ok so this I saw coming,,,,,,,but since December 2007 my electric system went dead and replaced ignition switch, battery, they also found oil leak on intake manifold,,,,luckily most covered by extended warranty. But then the squelching began again so they sprayed wd40,the rain was blamed. .... This past week,,AWD / Antilock brake lights come on --they have to replace a brake sensor and found something faulty in my braking,,also squelching now blamed on bad power steering pump,,,,again most covered by a warranty. BUT a Problem that has been consistent is it stalls when at slow speeds, usually 5-10 miles when turning, onto a drive way, parking lot, etc,,,,,doesn't happen often,,,about 1 every four months,,,,,plenty of gas and no dummy lights,,,Onstar runs diagnostic at the time but no problems noted . Had it looked at for this problems at 19,000 miles,,,(currently at 44,000), back then no source of problem could be found, and they stated that without a code,,,,,,,Now, they state that a TSB suggests the fuse box in engine compartment be changed due to corrosion. Warranty wont cover this,,I am insisting that since this problem was originally brought to their attention two years ago,,that they cover it.. I know that was wordy,,but any one else go through this,,,,,,,,any help would be appreciated..... thanks
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Replying to: onebadputter (Sep 21, 2007 11:18 am)
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Replying to: justwinnbaby1 (Feb 17, 2008 1:18 pm) If they come back saying it is corroded, then you are correct, this condition could be causing the stalling and since you brought it up to them before the warranty expried it would be covered by GM. It's important in these cases to make sure they document your complaint in the service record WORD for WORD. Don't let them get away with anything less otherwise you won't have a leg to stand on in post-warranty claims. If they don't find corrosion, then the problem lies elsewhere. When it stalls, does the engine sputter/cough and then stall (which would lead me to other issues than just electrical) or does it turn off very abruptly (more electrical in nature then).
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Replying to: vabuick (Feb 23, 2008 6:07 am) Insist on this.... demand to speak to a service manager. If you don't get what you deserve go to another Buick dealer, or even a Pontiac/Chevy/Saturn (in that order, that's how familiar they would be with this vehicle). Changing a fuel tank isn't very vehicle specific. |
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Replying to: bxd (Feb 23, 2008 2:55 am) car when comingto a stop ( no lights, plenty of gas ,no turn signal left on),,,this has happened twice before,,,so I'll will keep watch. Thanks for the advice,,,,,,,,,
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Replying to: jpierce (Oct 03, 2007 10:07 am) 1. Wheel Bearing/Speed Sensor failure. 2. Wiring harness failure. 3. AWD Control Valve Failure. (Thanks Dan Tucker, Pine Bluff, AR) I was lucky enough to have BOTH 1 and 2 on my wife's 03 RDV. Left Rear bearing was SHOT - the speed sensor cover had rusted through. Put on the new bearing and when you applied the brakes, the anti-lock would kick in - even under light braking. I still had a problem. So I went after electrical - it seemed logical, since the AWD Disable light would initially go off (the computer does a diagnostic every time the car is started, and apparently if it doesn't get a good signal from ALL wheel sensors - it sets the light) Took the connector from the wheel bearing I had just replaced and soldered it to the end of a $1.00 extension cord (you need at least 9 ft). With the circuit energized, the power side of the plug should show a consistent carrier signal - mine was 4.75 volts to ground. You can also OHM them to the ABS computer connector - all connectors should ohm less than 10 (see where the extension cord comes in handy??) After all 4 wheels run through ohms and volts - found the left front speed sensor power line broken off right at the connector. With some choice words and REALLY lucky connector work - wire reconnected and problem solved. If you are unlucky enough to have the control valve - the part number is 88896067 and is $107 plus shipping from gmpartsdirect. You'll also be out about $75 for versatrak fluid. Pretty easy to change, I am told. The car has 92,000 on it and the bearing was original. Don't know the age of the other 3 bearings, but I have a spare rear (from my Aurora) when it goes. One other good thing from this - the rear end groaning with parking lot maneuvers seems to have gone away with the installation of the new bearing. Next stop - air compressor and self leveling. |
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Replying to: justwinnbaby1 (Feb 23, 2008 4:14 pm) When the dealer ran the diagnostics for my miss problem - they alterted me to a Crank Position Sensor issue. I changed them (2 on a Northstar) about a month ago and not one stall or hiccup from the engine since. The miss was cured with a new coil pack. You might have the CKS and a Camshaft circuit problem.
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Replying to: renny1 (Feb 24, 2008 8:53 am) |
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Replying to: ray80 (Feb 09, 2008 7:35 am)
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| I had the same problem with the Low Fuel Light and Fuel Guage. When I took it to the Buick garage they said i would cost $534 to replace the fuel guage sender, however, when they checked further they found the fuel tank needed to be replaced, ended up costing $373.65 since some of the cost was covered by the recall. Haven't had any problem with the service engine soon light. | |
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