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Jeep Liberty: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

2253 messages,  Last post on Oct 15, 2006 at 8:49 PM

You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Jeep Liberty, SUV


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#2165 of 2253
Re: ac compressor on when- set to floor- heat on-ac switch off [farout] by glhperformance
Jul 29, 2006 (6:14 am)

Replying to: farout (Jul 15, 2006 5:21 pm)

no problems with my Liberty one heck of a great vehicle. 22mpg and a lot of snort awsome
#2166 of 2253
Re: fishtailing at rendom [asmile] by cstobb
Jul 30, 2006 (10:06 am)

Replying to: asmile (Apr 17, 2006 6:19 pm)

I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport. It does the same exact thing yours does. We took it to the dealer and they said there was nothing wrong with it. Then my husband noticed that the steering wheel wasn't returning - thinking that was our fishtailing problem we took it back to the dealer and they put a new rack and pinion on it. Needless to say that DID NOT take care of fishtailing problem, and it also did not take care of my returning steering wheel. We have also tried different tire pressures no difference. Any small bumps or grooves in a road will make you swerve and sway. It seems like the warmer it gets the worse it is. So I don't know if it's the warmer the engine from use or weather temperature. Mine doesn't do it so much when I leave in the cool morning.
#2167 of 2253
Re: fishtailing at rendom [cstobb] by ladybug8
Jul 31, 2006 (3:53 am)

Replying to: cstobb (Jul 30, 2006 10:06 am)

I have a 2004 and mine has a similar problem but also when it gets hot or we have been towing our John Boat it shifts hard; really hard.... we have also been told they can not locate the problem though. Since it is still under the factory warrenty we had it documented in case something happened in the future. Glad to know I am not the only one.
#2168 of 2253
Re: Any Mechanical Problems yet? [winger] by benojam
Jul 31, 2006 (6:26 am)

Replying to: winger (Jun 25, 2006 3:47 am)

There has been alot of talk about the dead cell battery and then clicking in rear and when vehicle jumped you must keep your foot in throttle to keep it running. Not many people are posting their solutions. Recently this happened to me on my 2002 liberty renegade (cactus green lights on top - yep I like it!)
 
As far as I can tell the stock OEM battery has a common failure mode that is a dead cell in the battery. This causes low voltage (dead battery). This low voltage allows some systems to function properly and some not. So when you get the vehicle jumped IAC valve (idle air control) wigs out because there isn't the proper voltage to control the valve. This explains the dying problem after jumped and evidently the clicking stuff is happening due to this low voltage stuff too.
 
Remove battery and let vehicle set for 15 minutes so all previous electrical stuff is gone and then install new battery.
 
And from what I can tell from previous postings is that after you jumped the vehicle the IAC valve poor functioning might cause a really high vacuum (which kills engine when you let off accelerator - when you have your foot on the pedal the throttle valve is open and the engine is getting plenty air) this really high vacuum may give you an eventual vacuum leak. So don't keep trying to jump the engine.
#2169 of 2253
Sat Nav by d1nger
Jul 31, 2006 (12:13 pm)
My jeep is up to 70,000 miles now. I have had only minor problems apart from the odd bulb or jubilee clip snaping that connected the turbo pipe (Top).Its running like a dream.
I am now concidering fitting a Sat nav "RB1 AM/FM Navigation, CD, DVD with CD Changer Controls"
Has any one attempted this on a 2002 liberty and what modifications are required.
#2170 of 2253
Re: 02 Liberty - Advice Needed on Engine Replacement [farout] by xkmail
Jul 31, 2006 (5:26 pm)

Replying to: farout (Jun 17, 2006 2:05 pm)

Ok, let's do this the right way. I will go buy a quart of dcx mopar oil and have it lab tested straight from the bottle.
Then I'll get a filter, cut it open and compare media and pleat size.I'll compare it to a purolator a fram and an stp.
That way all data is factual and current.
But the idea that you need to change your oil every 3000 miles is because jiffy bull does not lab test each cars oil for wear and contaminants, thats a fact.
I have a 1992 volvo just turned 200,000 miles. I ran my last 4 quarts of mobil1 5W30 for 10,210 miles, with a purolator pure one filter. It is a simple scientific fact that if the oil became over contaminated and broke down so would my car. On a kinder gentler note I am now running half 5w30 mobil1 and 1/2 rotellaT 15W40
#2171 of 2253
Re: Type octane gas used [tailgate] by xkmail
Jul 31, 2006 (5:33 pm)

Replying to: tailgate (Jul 20, 2006 8:31 am)

An advanced modern engine can adjust timing and ignition to account for poor fuel, although it will lack power too. It will also advance timing for higher octane also. I ran a tank of 92 with zero gains in mpg or power.
#2172 of 2253
Re: Sat Nav [d1nger] by jayrider
Aug 01, 2006 (6:17 am)

Replying to: d1nger (Jul 31, 2006 12:13 pm)

Why not consider a portable gps [garmin,magellen,sony, etc.]. Mine only cost $500 , it works amazingly and can be moved from car to car. Best travel investment ever!
#2173 of 2253
Re: fishtailing at random by glhperformance
Aug 01, 2006 (2:08 pm)

Replying to: cstobb (Jul 30, 2006 10:06 am)

no fish tailing , there is this neat thing called the accelerator, if you use it wisely you won't have the fishtailing problems, i drive mine hard and no fish tailing, well only once but that was on glare ice but nothing gets good traction on that, by the way i don't even have esp, you people need to learn how to use your throttle more wisely

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