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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra 1500 Owners

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#51 of 340 Z 71 package + liner question by p100 Sep 19, 2003 (5:27 pm)
Most Japanese 4X4 compact pickups and many Japanese 4X4 SUVs have standard skid plates installed under the front diferential, transfer case, and the gas tank. Never seen a skid plate installed under the muffler, because this is not a very expensive or critical component to protect, and usually is tucked into the frame far enough not to be easily damaged. I owned a Dodge Raider SUV (Mitsubishi Montero clone) and it had a small skid plate even under the fuel filter which was under the vehicle. US manufacturers make skid plates optional on most 4X4 vehicles and rarely include the fuel tank skid plate, which in my opinion is by far the most important one from the safety standpoint.   My recommendations for the bedliner: I would stay away from plastic bedliners because they will scuff your paint and eventually rub it completely off in places and rust spots will develop. If you do not carry loose gravel, sand or sharp objects in your truck bed, then heavy duty rubber mat on the bottom of the bed, with a plastic bedliner tailgate piece works great(you can buy the tailgate piece separately and they also sell matching rubber mat tailgate protectors). I have used this combination in my trucks for years. The mat prevents objects in the bed from sliding around. Plastic bedliners will not prevent that. If you must use a plastic bedliner, they sell something called a "paint saver mat" for about $ 20. This is a thin mat that goes under the bedliner to protect the paint from scuffing. For the tailgate piece and for over the rail bedliners, always use foam tape on top of the bed rails and top of your tailgate. Yes, even bolted on tailgate bedliner piece moves around and will scuff your paint on top of the tailgate in time.   Bed cover/camper shell recommendation: Too many choices here. I personally prefer fiberglass camper shells over aluminum or plastic ones.
#52 of 340 Bed rail protectors by bigd83 Sep 25, 2003 (9:26 am)
I have a 99 Silverado, step-side bed. The bed has black plastic pieces that run along the sides along the top of it. They overlap both into the bed and then outside the bed as well. They dont look too bad but I have noticed similar trucks without them. Can I take them off and if so, is it hard to do so? Also, since there are no marks or anything on them to indicate otherwise, will the paint look like a normal truck underneath?
#53 of 340 Spring bushing noise by cyberdyne Nov 22, 2003 (11:26 pm)
Replace bushings with neoprene rubber bushings if you can find them. This was the usual upgrade for camaros and mustangs
#54 of 340 2003 Silverado "Clunking Noise" by cyberdyne Nov 22, 2003 (11:29 pm)
What is the clunking noise? Is it coming from the drive shaft, engine or what?
#55 of 340 Buy a 2003/2004 Silverado 2wd 4.8 5 spd on not? by cyberdyne Nov 22, 2003 (11:32 pm)
One of the vehicles I considering is a 2003 or a 2004 Silverado 1500 ls with a 4.8 v8 and a 5 spd tranny. I will be using it to move 15k miles away, then as a daily driver? Will this truck hold up or can I expect a lot of problems? Please let me know any opinions.  Thanks, Michael Replies to this message: bub (Aug 24, 2004 6:09 pm)
#56 of 340 Service 4WD by mbear69 Nov 26, 2003 (9:23 pm)
I had a '99 1500 Z71 Ext Cab with this problem. It ended up being a problem with the switch for the auto transfer case. Fixed the problem under warranty. Just traded up for a 2004 Z71 Ext Cab.
#57 of 340 Rear end clunk by artt Dec 27, 2003 (9:44 pm)
There are two types of rear end clunk, read this TSB. Info - Driveline Clunk #99-04-20-002A Driveline Clunk 2002 and Prior Light Duty Truck Models This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002 (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle). Important The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004. Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse. Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released. Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have. The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline. For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline. In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:  Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.  While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance. © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
#58 of 340 Clunking by topsail33 Jan 01, 2004 (5:09 pm)
I have a '00 1500 4wd with the clunk also. I too have been to the dealer. I learned to live with it. They fixed it for about a month. There own TSB's point the finger at shoddy engineering:   "Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have."   So in other words, there is too much lash in all of their gears. If the above was a certainty, then EVERY SINGLE vehicle would make this clunk!   Which is why I personally don't believe it's lash, unless they manufactured only Silverados with excessive lash.   The clunk on mine comes from the rear of the truck. I think it's the ring and pinion, but who knows?    "Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction."   Again, the above paragraph points the finger at shoddy engineering tolerances. Replies to this message: 83olds (Jan 23, 2005 6:00 pm)
#59 of 340 Need a reset by charleyb Jan 15, 2004 (6:23 am)
Anyone know how to re-set the "Service Engine Soon" light on my 1998 Silverado? (I service the truck regularly) Replies to this message: bobber56 (Dec 31, 2004 1:50 pm)
#60 of 340 Service Engine Soon by mitzij Jan 23, 2004 (12:29 pm)
SES light means there is trouble in your emissions system. Probably something little, could be a loose gas cap. Truck detects a fuel (vapor) leak, light pops on. SES is not the same as 'Oil Change' Check your owners manual to reset oil change light. I think it is 'turn key on to accessory, press brake pedal several times'. May be different on yours.

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