- #548 of 559
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Re: 1997 I30 automatic transmission question [pnotar]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
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Oct 19, 2009 (9:09 am)
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Replying to: pnotar (Oct 19, 2009 8:38 am)
yeah, I was thinking charity donation. I just think buying a "new" car is not in the cards for you at this moment, and since this moment is the only moment you can do anything about---well then. Sure, in a few months the situation may indeed turn completely around---probably will--but until then, you need wheels--bottom line there.
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- #549 of 559
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Re: Error Codes P0100 and P0733 - 96 I30 [infinitisvc]
by lori925
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Oct 29, 2009 (11:09 am)
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Replying to: infinitisvc (Oct 18, 2009 3:37 am)
Thanks so much for the information. You are right about throwing parts at a problem due to the codes. I have wasted a good bit of money on two O2 sensors and a knock sensor that were probably working just fine. I live on a tiny island and the mechanics overcharge hours and I don't trust the ones I have come across. However, we do have a Nissan dealership over the bridge I could have do the work. The tech there insists it is the IAC but I am now worried that I blew out the ECU since it's been driven so long without proper diagnosis. I will try this one last ditch effort, and if the car keeps stalling, may have to consider a new one:(
Thanks again...I will check out the IATN.
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- #550 of 559
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2001 I30 Electrical Problem
by hossjr
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Oct 29, 2009 (11:28 am)
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My 2001 I30 has had 4 remanufactured alternators supplied by Nissan/Infiniti installed since May and a new starter. After leaving the car sit for 3-4 days it won't start w/o a jump. What else could possibly be wrong here?
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- #551 of 559
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Re: 2001 I30 Electrical Problem [hossjr]
by infinitisvc
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Oct 30, 2009 (1:51 am)
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Replying to: hossjr (Oct 29, 2009 11:28 am)
You could have a parasitic draw, something that is continuing to draw current when the car is off and all the control modules have gone to sleep. This is caused by a faulty component that is shorted out, or possibly a wiring issue where there is a short.
I would say if you are able to jump the vehicle, and drive it, then find after it sits for several hours you have to jump start it a parasitic draw is very likely. That all assumes the battery is not faulty. You did not mention anything about the battery, but I assume it is passing its tests.
Good luck.
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- #552 of 559
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Re: 2000 I30 with some oil leaks [anovice]
by infinitisvc
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Oct 30, 2009 (2:05 am)
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Replying to: anovice (Sep 25, 2009 3:41 am)
$814 for all that work sounds low. Check this guy out thoroughly before you commit to having the work done. I would recommend you check with the dealer to see what their price is as well. The independent shop is often cheaper than the dealer by not always. It pays to be diligent in your research.
I would recommend you fix all the leaks as soon as possible. When oil leaks from the engine it often comes in contact with other components, many of which are made of rubber. Hoses, insulation on wiring, bushings, etc. can all be damaged by allowing oil to continually drip on them. There will be collateral damage and additional costs if you do not fix the leaks.
I once had a client with a VW that refused a $450 valve cover gasket replacement. One year later his car was on a flatbed wrecker with a major coolant leak. The oil had been dripping onto a coolant hose, deteriorating the hose and causing it to blow. This engine was turbo charged and the hose was under the turbo. The original $450 repair that he refused, because he did not see a need to spend the money, became a $1700 repair.
Fix the leaks and be diligent about maintaining the vehicle and it will be cheaper for you in the long run.
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- #553 of 559
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2001 I30 new front rotors and pads - soft pedal
by sluhdude
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Nov 01, 2009 (11:47 am)
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I just replaced the front rotors and pads on my 2001 I30, but the pedal seems a little soft. Everything seems to be working great, just to much pedal travel before stopping starts. Any suggestions?
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- #554 of 559
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Re: Brakes lights not working & can't shift from park [i30guy]
by xsaboramelaox
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Nov 11, 2009 (5:13 pm)
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Replying to: i30guy (Jun 20, 2006 4:23 pm)
the EXACT SAME THING IS HAPPENING TO ME and I don't know how to fix it!!! My brake lights stop working periodically, and when they're not working, I am unable to shift my car out of park. Very frustrating!!! My car almost didn't pass state inspection because of it! PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME and let me know what this could be, or if you have found a solution to this problem. It is driving me insane!!!!!!!!! E-mail me xsaboramelaox aol.com thanks so much!!!!!
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- #555 of 559
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Re: Brakes lights not working & can't shift from park [i30guy]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
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Nov 11, 2009 (7:26 pm)
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Replying to: i30guy (Jun 20, 2006 4:23 pm)
Yes if the brake light switch is bad it will not send a signal to the gearshift solenoid to unlock the gear shift lever. You could test this by by-passing the brake light switch with a jumper wire just momentarily to see if the lever releases. Also I guess you could have a loose fuse for the brake light switch, or a bad connection at the switch, or the fuse box....or the brake light switch could be hanging loose or not adjusted properly.
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- #556 of 559
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Re: 2001 I30 Electrical Problem [hossjr]
by infinity19
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Nov 15, 2009 (10:15 am)
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Replying to: hossjr (Oct 29, 2009 11:28 am)
I replaced my alternator once. 4 alternators thats crazy. I had a similar problem with my 97 i30 where i needed a jump. I had to replace the compressor. could that be the problem?
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- #557 of 559
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97 Inifiniti I30 Brake LIght
by bcrisologo
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Nov 16, 2009 (1:14 pm)
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This happens when the lights are on. When I step on the brake, the right brake light turns off. What could be the problem? Appreciate your assistance.
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