Last post on May 20, 2013 at 11:00 AM
You are in the Infiniti I30/I35
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Infiniti I30, Infiniti I35, Sedan
#545 of 685 1997 I30 automatic transmission question
Oct 19, 2009 (9:25 am)
Have this vehicle with 148K miles. Saturday, idling at a traffic light and when it turns green, hit the gas pedal, but go nowhere. When shifting the car into various gears, hear a sound best described as "whirring/crunching". Until this occurred, I have had no issues with the transmission and done regular maintenance.
Towed car to my mechanic, who, after inspection today, tells me the transmission is shot. Guy who works for him used to work for Infiniti and said he has seen this happen with this model...just craps out.
In '07, I had new front struts/boots installed; in '08, I had front axles replaced. Looking for opinion as to whether to cut my losses or go ahead with refurb tranmission replacement (cost estimate $1700-$2000)?
To further complicate matters, I am out of work, so not really in a position to replace the vehicle, at least with something at a similar level.
On the pro side, my mechanic (who I do trust) tells me the car is in great shape otherwise and it is worth the investment. Cost wise, it is still likely cheaper to sink the above dollars in vs. a full replacement PLUS getting no value back for the vehicle.
On the con side, just seems like I am investing more and more into a car with diminishing returns. Blue Book/online searches for this car puts the value at about $3500.
Just looking for thoughts from those more experienced to factor into my decision making process. Thanks in advance!
#546 of 685 Re: 1997 I30 automatic transmission question [pnotar]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Oct 19, 2009 (9:32 am)
I don't see where buying another used vehicle with high miles puts you in any better position, and being out of work, buying a new car seems a tad reckless (even though we all need transport!) so, based on your mechanic's evaluation of the car, I'd say go for it.
The only other solution I could see, which isn't a great one, is to buy a very clean, low mileage used car as a replacement--but in that case, this renders your $3500 car with a broken transmission not much more than a $350 car.
At least once you are employed again, you have a good running car to sell as a down payment for your next vehicle.
#547 of 685 Re: 1997 I30 automatic transmission question [Mr_Shiftright]
Oct 19, 2009 (9:38 am)
Thanks for the quick response. The sad part of this whole ordeal is that, once I obtain employment, I was planning to look for something "new" (I am a quality used car man...never owned brand new). Now, if I take this plunge, I am feeling like I am committing to the vehicle for another couple of years. Positive is at least I am not making car payments as I try to rebuild my finances.
Guessing your $350 evaluation is based upon the tax value you would get on donating the car to charity? Wasn't sure what that value was, but, as we have both cited, without the fix, I have the proverbial white elephant.
Likely going to fix, as it appears to be the lowest cost/best return on investment option, but I don't feel good about it at all. Thanks again!
#548 of 685 Re: 1997 I30 automatic transmission question [pnotar]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Oct 19, 2009 (10:09 am)
yeah, I was thinking charity donation. I just think buying a "new" car is not in the cards for you at this moment, and since this moment is the only moment you can do anything about---well then. Sure, in a few months the situation may indeed turn completely around---probably will--but until then, you need wheels--bottom line there.
#549 of 685 Re: Error Codes P0100 and P0733 - 96 I30 [infinitisvc]
Oct 29, 2009 (12:09 pm)
Thanks so much for the information. You are right about throwing parts at a problem due to the codes. I have wasted a good bit of money on two O2 sensors and a knock sensor that were probably working just fine. I live on a tiny island and the mechanics overcharge hours and I don't trust the ones I have come across. However, we do have a Nissan dealership over the bridge I could have do the work. The tech there insists it is the IAC but I am now worried that I blew out the ECU since it's been driven so long without proper diagnosis. I will try this one last ditch effort, and if the car keeps stalling, may have to consider a new one:(
Thanks again...I will check out the IATN.
#550 of 685 2001 I30 Electrical Problem
Oct 29, 2009 (12:28 pm)
My 2001 I30 has had 4 remanufactured alternators supplied by Nissan/Infiniti installed since May and a new starter. After leaving the car sit for 3-4 days it won't start w/o a jump. What else could possibly be wrong here?
#551 of 685 Re: 2001 I30 Electrical Problem [hossjr]
Oct 30, 2009 (2:51 am)
You could have a parasitic draw, something that is continuing to draw current when the car is off and all the control modules have gone to sleep. This is caused by a faulty component that is shorted out, or possibly a wiring issue where there is a short.
I would say if you are able to jump the vehicle, and drive it, then find after it sits for several hours you have to jump start it a parasitic draw is very likely. That all assumes the battery is not faulty. You did not mention anything about the battery, but I assume it is passing its tests.
#552 of 685 Re: 2000 I30 with some oil leaks [anovice]
Oct 30, 2009 (3:05 am)
$814 for all that work sounds low. Check this guy out thoroughly before you commit to having the work done. I would recommend you check with the dealer to see what their price is as well. The independent shop is often cheaper than the dealer by not always. It pays to be diligent in your research.
I would recommend you fix all the leaks as soon as possible. When oil leaks from the engine it often comes in contact with other components, many of which are made of rubber. Hoses, insulation on wiring, bushings, etc. can all be damaged by allowing oil to continually drip on them. There will be collateral damage and additional costs if you do not fix the leaks.
I once had a client with a VW that refused a $450 valve cover gasket replacement. One year later his car was on a flatbed wrecker with a major coolant leak. The oil had been dripping onto a coolant hose, deteriorating the hose and causing it to blow. This engine was turbo charged and the hose was under the turbo. The original $450 repair that he refused, because he did not see a need to spend the money, became a $1700 repair.
Fix the leaks and be diligent about maintaining the vehicle and it will be cheaper for you in the long run.
#553 of 685 2001 I30 new front rotors and pads - soft pedal
Nov 01, 2009 (12:47 pm)
I just replaced the front rotors and pads on my 2001 I30, but the pedal seems a little soft. Everything seems to be working great, just to much pedal travel before stopping starts. Any suggestions?
#554 of 685 Re: Brakes lights not working & can't shift from park [i30guy]
Nov 11, 2009 (6:13 pm)
the EXACT SAME THING IS HAPPENING TO ME and I don't know how to fix it!!! My brake lights stop working periodically, and when they're not working, I am unable to shift my car out of park. Very frustrating!!! My car almost didn't pass state inspection because of it! PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME and let me know what this could be, or if you have found a solution to this problem. It is driving me insane!!!!!!!!! E-mail me xsaboramelaoxaol.com thanks so much!!!!!