Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Sedans Infiniti I30/I35 Infiniti I30 Maintenance and Repair
559 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 10:58 AM
You are in the Infiniti I30/I35 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
|
|
|---|---|
|
Replying to: debful (Sep 20, 2009 4:13 pm) |
|
|
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jan 15, 2008 1:36 pm) well the next day the light went off again it it shows the code P0171 and after fueling ar all of the random it goes off and then after like a few miles it goes on. I really dont want to pay another 1k dollars to any mechanic. I dont know what to do next need help asap 
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: brig7 (Sep 22, 2009 8:48 pm)
|
|
|
Replying to: refugeescamp (Sep 22, 2009 9:12 pm) 
|
|
|
Replying to: brig7 (Sep 22, 2009 8:48 pm) 1) Go to Maxima.org to find out how to pull the MAF sensor. It requires a TORX bit on your wrench. Comes out hard due to rubber O ring but it will come out. 2) Get a can of CRC MAF cleaner and spray away. My car now runs like new again after having code 171 errors. Let it dry, reinstall and enjoy. Bob |
|
|
|
|
Replying to: brig7 (Sep 22, 2009 9:32 pm) |
|
|
Please bear with me as this is my first post and I know nothing about cars! I recently acquired a 2000 I30 from a family member who was the original owner. It has 63,000 miles and appears to be in relatively good condition. I have all the records and the car has had service at all recommended mileage intervals and oil changes every 3,000 miles. Before acquiring the car the Infiniti dealership near my family member performed an inspection and said there is a small leak in the real main seal, one axle seal and a crank seal. Now that I have the car back home and have used it for a few weeks, I see the small leak in the real main seal. I brought the car into the local mechanic I use and without mentioning the Infiniti dealerships findings, I had him check it out. He said the real main seal had a slight leak as well as one axle seal. He did not see a leak at the crank seal. So forgetting about the crank seal which can be done later and separately if need be, it was good to get confirmation. From underneath he also looked further up the engine and suspects a valve cover seal may be leaking too. The path forward that he recommended was to drop the transmission to replace the real main seal and at the same time replace both axle seals and stop there. This would cost me $493.50 for labor, plus the three seals. After a few weeks if we see any appreciable problem with the crank seal and/or the valve cover seal, we can replace them at that time as it will not cost more or less than if they were replaced while the transmission was down. he did not give me a price for the crank seal, but replacement of the valve cover seal is $321.00 for labor, plus the seal. I have a few questions and a concern. First, do you agree with the mechanics approach? Second, are his prices fair at $814.50 (labor for rear main seal and both axle seals and labor for valve cover seal if needed)? My concern is dropping the transmission sounds like a big job and I am wondering if the mechanic could cause more harm than good. Considering the leaks are minor and I can live with a piece of cardboard under the car in the garage, should I hold the work off or will the leaks get progressively worse? On one hand I say the car is 10 years old, but on the other, it only has 63,000 miles, cars require maintenance and based on the fact that I only put on 10,000 miles per year, I can see having this car for quite a while. Your thoughts are appreciated. Anovice
|
|
| I had the ABS and brake lights go on while driving home. Had the alternator and battery checked and both were bad. I replaced them both and the car was fine for a little while. Then the battery and brake lights came on. Interestingly when we checked the battery voltage the following happened: positive to negative terminals - 14V, positive terminal to car metal - 14V, (and here's the interesting part) negative battery terminal to car metal - 10V (obviously since both should be negative it should be 0V). I played around with the Alternator cable (where it attaches to the Alternator) and it was apparently not on all the way. Got it fixed and it was o.k. for around a hundred miles or so. The battery and brake lights are back on now. I removed the Alternator cable again and restarted the car using just the battery and the lights went off. I believe it is the Alternator cable - I will put a new one in tomorrow and let you know. | |
| my 2000 i30 stalls shortly after starting but only in park, not any other gear... i have no idea and i dont want to get ripped off by a mechanic so i was hoping someone would maybe have an idea... thanks | |
|
Replying to: atwdrew (Nov 10, 2008 4:01 pm) |
|
You are here:
Forums
Sedans Infiniti I30/I35 Infiniti I30 Maintenance and Repair
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
