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Infiniti I30 Maintenance and Repair

559 messages,  Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 10:58 AM

You are in the Infiniti I30/I35 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Infiniti I30, Sedan


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#392 of 559
Trans fluid question by witnessx
Jun 20, 2008 (7:37 am)
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Does the automatic transmission fluid in the 2000-2001 cars need to be drained and replaced at a specific mileage, or is it "lifetime fill"? I ask because I have a 2000, and the last time I had the oil changed, the place I went to checked the trans fluid, and they said it was "really murky".
#393 of 559
Re: Tail Light [mks21] by witnessx
Jun 20, 2008 (7:43 am)
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Replying to: mks21 (May 19, 2008 10:12 am)

It's either a problem in the wiring or one of the bulbs is out.
#394 of 559
fuel filter replacement diagram 01' Infiniti I30 by wingsovgrace
Jun 24, 2008 (3:39 pm)
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I'm a lady without a clue about this topic. Need to replace the fuel filter and would like some very patient elementary school teacher type to give me the ABC's and tell me where I can find an actual diagram. Thanks!
#395 of 559
how do I know when I get a reply? by wingsovgrace
Jun 24, 2008 (3:50 pm)
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That is my question. I'm new here.
#396 of 559
Re: fuel filter replacement diagram 01' Infiniti I30 [wingsovgrace] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jun 25, 2008 (7:59 am)
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Replying to: wingsovgrace (Jun 24, 2008 3:39 pm)

A rather messy job for a rookie. The fuel filter is in your gas tank. You'd probably want a repair shop to do it (I would). You have to de-pressurize the fuel injection system, (by releasing pressure from a valve that looks like a tire valve, in the fuel rail), then remove the back seat, then remove the inspection plate, then disconnect the fuel pump electrical connections, disconnect the quick-connect fuel lines, extract the pump and float level from the gas tank, and disassemble pump unit and put in a new fuel filter and reassemble everything.
 
The "book" says it takes a mechanic .9 of an hour to do this. So figure 2X that for a DIYer.
 
More power to you if you want to tackle this. I think if you were patient and if you had a repair manual showing you step by step you could do this safely. You might also need a special tool for the quick-disconnect fuel lines however, not sure.
 
You could check with your public library for a repair manual. They probably have it.
 
Work safely around the fuel pressure relief valve and while in the gas tank area, please!
 
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#397 of 559
Re: Trans fluid question [witnessx] by windowphobe6
Jun 27, 2008 (5:43 pm)
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Replying to: witnessx (Jun 20, 2008 7:37 am)

The manual doesn't specify a standard change interval; my local dealership suggests servicing every 30k miles, which seems reasonable.
#398 of 559
Re: Trans fluid question [windowphobe6] by witnessx
Jun 27, 2008 (5:51 pm)
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Replying to: windowphobe6 (Jun 27, 2008 5:43 pm)

Sounds about right.
#399 of 559
Same Problem different day by churick
Jul 01, 2008 (6:39 pm)
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Alright, for those of you who are on here regularly you probably have seen my problems over and over again. I had the P1320 code come up. The ignition coils is what i have gotten told to be the problem. I have changed plugs, replaced MAF and cleaned the throttle body. Now I am on to the coils but I am strapped for cash at the moment and I am looking for a way to test coil ohm reading to find Faulty one and replace so I can at least drive the car till i can replace all the remaining coils. I have found one reading saying should be between 10-15 ohms. Is this correct???
Next question is how to test them I believe there is a positive and negative and another output on the coils; is this correct????? Does anybody know the correct procedure for this......
 
One more question replaced MAF inside box was a notice to use code and download correct information, does anybody know what this is for and is it necessary. put in MAF SES is off but still won't go over 2500 rpms???????
 
appreciate all your patients guys....I am trying not to get in over my head, might be to late......
#400 of 559
"Royal Flush" and interior lights by daniel25
Jul 01, 2008 (6:54 pm)
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I have an 2000 I30t with 110K. I had an oil change at the dealership last week (only went there because of a great coupon), and they highly recommended a "royal flush" to enhance the lifespan of the car. As it was explained to me, they drain all of the fluids, flush a cleaning solution though everything, oil the seals, and fill her back up. Price is around 500. This seems like a lot of money to me for a service I may or may not need. Would anyone recommend this service? I'd like to get another 50-75K out of this car...
 
Also, has anyone found a good supplier of clock and dash bulbs for these cars? I know the clock bulbs from the dealership are ~$12 (x2). I tried to replace the bulbs with some ebay specials (from Illumination maybe?), but they did not work. I just lost light on the left side of the A/C panel and hope to replace this bulb on the cheap also.
 
I haven't had the exact seat problem mentioned a few posts ago, but have had the seat completely stick in the furthest back position. I was able to pull hard on the driver's seat (from the back seat) and knock the seat back onto the rails. Maybe this would help? I no longer move the seat all the way back.
 
I'm happy to report that the I30 is still running great since replacing the MAF (late spring 2007). Only issue now is a LOUD noise when turning hard from a stop and then pressing on the gas. I try not to turn the wheel all the way now. Anyone else have this issue? CV joint maybe?
 
Thanks and good to see the board still going strong.
#401 of 559
Starting problem by bud4me
Jul 05, 2008 (8:11 pm)
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For the last couple days my 1997 Infiniti I30 has been starting weird, turning slow. Today it would not start at all. I cleaned the battery cables, no result. There is not even a clicking noise when the key is engaged. Lights do not even dim when the key is turned. Nothing at all happens.

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