- #337 of 559
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Re: Transmission Problems [yoopercamp23]
by mbzguy1
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Dec 14, 2007 (9:35 am)
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Replying to: yoopercamp23 (Nov 06, 2007 11:31 am)
I don't think it is your tranny, I think you've got a problem with your motor mounts. Overnight your motor sinks down to bind on the shaft slightly, making it hard to get out of park, and second gear is when there is the most torque on the shaft, so it makes the engine jump slightly.Same thing happened to my son's G20. Easy fix with a good jack, just check for excess play and/or wear on the rubber in the mount
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- #338 of 559
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Re: I30 Brake Adjustment [gir]
by mbzguy1
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Dec 14, 2007 (9:39 am)
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Replying to: gir (Nov 17, 2007 7:53 am)
Bleed the brakes! You let air in the lines.
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- #339 of 559
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Re: worried [nyagaka]
by mbzguy1
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Dec 14, 2007 (9:44 am)
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Replying to: nyagaka (Nov 28, 2007 10:44 am)
Dude, you need your engine overhauled. The metal is coming from the rod bearings, and if you continue to drive it one of them will fail, throwing a rod and rendering your block useless. Surprised your mechanic didn't have an explanation for the metal, they should all know this.
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- #340 of 559
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Re: exhaust pipe [pua691]
by mbzguy1
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Dec 14, 2007 (9:48 am)
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Replying to: pua691 (Nov 28, 2007 6:14 pm)
Yes, another shop can fix it, or if you go down to the parts store you can get a pipe wrap that will fix it for a long time. Either way, get it fixed soon because the leak could let CO into the cabin and cause major damage to YOU!
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- #341 of 559
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Re: Ignition Coils [bobfl]
by mbzguy1
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Dec 14, 2007 (10:55 am)
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Replying to: bobfl (Apr 29, 2007 1:13 pm)
Hey Bob, don't blame the car for inept mechanics, every brand has them. I've seen just as much guessing with Lexus, MB and BMW. Just be grateful you don't have to see them as much as the Euro's. I avoid dealerships like the plague unless I have to go there; they are my last resort. My advice to anyone is find yourself a good mechanic that you can trust and use him(or her!). And try to do as much work as you feel comfortable with on your own. You'd be surprised how much money you would save if you use the internet for parts and put in your own sensors and brakes. I can change all 4 rotors and 8 brake pads for less than $300, really not hard at all. Sensors, hoses, belts, alternators and starters are not hard to do, and even if it takes you 3 times as much time as a mechanic you are saving hundreds in labor. Most libraries can give you online access to Chilton's repair manual, so don't buy the manual (if you could find it) but go online for it. Also, look it up under a Maxima if you can't find it under Infiniti, they are the same for most mechanical and electrical.
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- #342 of 559
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knock and speed sensors
by smoken1
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Dec 21, 2007 (12:52 pm)
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Just moved my sons car, '97 I30, to CA and need to have the emissions certified, but they won't look at the car if the SES light is on. the Infiniti dealer said the codes show it needs a new knock sensor ($550) and has an intermittent speed sensor fault ($650). The car is not worth that much. Any ideas on how to change these myself and get the flash reprogrammed to shut off the SES light on the cheap?
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- #343 of 559
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service engine soon
by kitty2tone
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Dec 26, 2007 (7:19 am)
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my 99 I30 (127000 miles) just went through some really fun repairs - the brake light and batt light came on after I got gas, and it sounded terrible until the lower engine pulley dropped out while I was driving. the mechanic replaced it, took it out for a test drive and it dropped out again. my a/c compressor was frozen causing the belts to tighten leading to the pulley to drop, so they replaced that too and it runs like brand new. 2 days later the ses light came on - (not too long after getting gas) - so I've checked the cap - how long does it take for that to reset if it's the problem or do I have to do something?
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- #344 of 559
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Re: tranmission stuck/slipping while driving in traffic in hot weather [mikefromcnj]
by ching3
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Dec 26, 2007 (8:50 am)
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Replying to: mikefromcnj (Sep 13, 2007 11:00 am)
I have a problem that sounds similar. My wife drives the car and I cannot duplicate the problem. She said the engine sound like it is racing but it is not going anywhere. After the car is turned off for a few minutes it runs like nothing ever happened. Mike do you have the part number of the second sensor that was replaced. I think my problem is the same as your own. Thanks ...Andrew
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- #345 of 559
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I30 2001 stalling while at traffic lights
by sswabinga
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Dec 30, 2007 (5:31 pm)
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We have an I30 with 130,000 miles. The car consistently stalls while idling at traffic lights. We have replaced an idle control mechanism (sorry I don't know exact term) and have also tried cleaning out the injectors. The repair facility we use said that the machine for cleaning fuel injectors they had would not work with the I30, so the injectors might still be a possibility. They also noticed a hesitation in the engine at 3500 rpms to about 4000 rpms. The repair facility then suggested replacing the catalytic convertors. We have had no check engine lights come on. The car runs smoothly while driving.
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- #346 of 559
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Re: I30 2001 stalling while at traffic lights [sswabinga]
by ching3
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Jan 02, 2008 (8:45 am)
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Replying to: sswabinga (Dec 30, 2007 5:31 pm)
Don't forget to check the ignition coil pack for this problem. If it is.... don't pay to have it changed. It takes less than 5 minutes to change yourself.
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