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Infiniti I30 Maintenance and Repair

559 messages,  Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 10:58 AM

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What is this discussion about? Infiniti I30, Sedan

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#334 of 559 Re: 2001 I30 replacement rear brakes [maddoke] by mrrbiggz Dec 02, 2007 (7:36 pm)
Replying to: maddoke (Nov 29, 2007 6:25 am) did you take it to a dealer for the work or didyou do it yourself
#335 of 559 Re: I 30 trouble [annamreddi] by rvenkat Dec 03, 2007 (11:24 am)
Replying to: annamreddi (Nov 30, 2007 8:28 am) It was the MAF sensor. Drives like new after I got it replaced. I had cleaned the fuel injectors before and it did not help. The manual says the fuel filter is maintenance free and does not have to replaced. I still have the pesky SES light for my rear O2 sensors but they haven't bothered me in 2 years. Not planning to spend $800 to get those changed....
#336 of 559 I30 Won't Start - Fuel Issue? by jat2288 Dec 04, 2007 (5:07 pm)
I have a 99 I30 that cranks but won't start. When it was running, it would start hard but it would eventually turn over. Sometimes it would just crank and crank, then start. Other times it would crank and stall. The car would stall a few times, then start. The check engine light came on and stayed on, so I took it to the shop. They replaced 1 oxygen sensor and added treatment to the fuel system. The issue continued and the check engine light came back on. I took it back to the shop and they replaced the other 2 oxygen sensors. I brought the car home and that was the last time I could get it to start. I checked under the fuel tank and I can hear the fuel pump buzzing, so I think it is operating properly. I checked 3 plugs and they are dry after trying to start the car. I was trying to check the spark, and it shocked the crap out of me so I don't think it's electrical. I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator valve, but no change. The car just cranks over and over again. If I spray starting fluid into the throttle body, the car will attempt to start. When this happens, if I push the gas pedal, the car will rev up to with a high rpm, but then it stalls immediately. Any help would be appreciated.
#337 of 559 Re: Transmission Problems [yoopercamp23] by mbzguy1 Dec 14, 2007 (9:35 am)
Replying to: yoopercamp23 (Nov 06, 2007 11:31 am) I don't think it is your tranny, I think you've got a problem with your motor mounts. Overnight your motor sinks down to bind on the shaft slightly, making it hard to get out of park, and second gear is when there is the most torque on the shaft, so it makes the engine jump slightly.Same thing happened to my son's G20. Easy fix with a good jack, just check for excess play and/or wear on the rubber in the mount
#338 of 559 Re: I30 Brake Adjustment [gir] by mbzguy1 Dec 14, 2007 (9:39 am)
Replying to: gir (Nov 17, 2007 7:53 am) Bleed the brakes! You let air in the lines.
#339 of 559 Re: worried [nyagaka] by mbzguy1 Dec 14, 2007 (9:44 am)
Replying to: nyagaka (Nov 28, 2007 10:44 am) Dude, you need your engine overhauled. The metal is coming from the rod bearings, and if you continue to drive it one of them will fail, throwing a rod and rendering your block useless. Surprised your mechanic didn't have an explanation for the metal, they should all know this.
#340 of 559 Re: exhaust pipe [pua691] by mbzguy1 Dec 14, 2007 (9:48 am)
Replying to: pua691 (Nov 28, 2007 6:14 pm) Yes, another shop can fix it, or if you go down to the parts store you can get a pipe wrap that will fix it for a long time. Either way, get it fixed soon because the leak could let CO into the cabin and cause major damage to YOU!
#341 of 559 Re: Ignition Coils [bobfl] by mbzguy1 Dec 14, 2007 (10:55 am)
Replying to: bobfl (Apr 29, 2007 1:13 pm) Hey Bob, don't blame the car for inept mechanics, every brand has them. I've seen just as much guessing with Lexus, MB and BMW. Just be grateful you don't have to see them as much as the Euro's. I avoid dealerships like the plague unless I have to go there; they are my last resort. My advice to anyone is find yourself a good mechanic that you can trust and use him(or her!). And try to do as much work as you feel comfortable with on your own. You'd be surprised how much money you would save if you use the internet for parts and put in your own sensors and brakes. I can change all 4 rotors and 8 brake pads for less than $300, really not hard at all. Sensors, hoses, belts, alternators and starters are not hard to do, and even if it takes you 3 times as much time as a mechanic you are saving hundreds in labor. Most libraries can give you online access to Chilton's repair manual, so don't buy the manual (if you could find it) but go online for it. Also, look it up under a Maxima if you can't find it under Infiniti, they are the same for most mechanical and electrical.
#342 of 559 knock and speed sensors by smoken1 Dec 21, 2007 (12:52 pm)
Just moved my sons car, '97 I30, to CA and need to have the emissions certified, but they won't look at the car if the SES light is on. the Infiniti dealer said the codes show it needs a new knock sensor ($550) and has an intermittent speed sensor fault ($650). The car is not worth that much. Any ideas on how to change these myself and get the flash reprogrammed to shut off the SES light on the cheap?
#343 of 559 service engine soon by kitty2tone Dec 26, 2007 (7:19 am)
my 99 I30 (127000 miles) just went through some really fun repairs - the brake light and batt light came on after I got gas, and it sounded terrible until the lower engine pulley dropped out while I was driving. the mechanic replaced it, took it out for a test drive and it dropped out again. my a/c compressor was frozen causing the belts to tighten leading to the pulley to drop, so they replaced that too and it runs like brand new. 2 days later the ses light came on - (not too long after getting gas) - so I've checked the cap - how long does it take for that to reset if it's the problem or do I have to do something?

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