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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience
21934 messages, Last post on Sep 06, 2008 at 9:27 AM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
| If you paid $27,776 OTD, you got hosed. In the Washington DC area, I paid $25,741 ($25,251 + $490 destination) + taxes, title, and registration through College Park Honda. I paid $27,371.00 OTD, and that price included wheel locks, cargo tray, and mud guards. | |
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gatrhumpy, We got our 04 EX V6 with Nav in December 03, which included mud guards and wheel locks, OTD was around 27,900.00, so does that mean we got hosed also? Well, I would disagree. In the NYC area try getting one in Red and close to what we paid, very difficult. The silver, white and common colors are very easy to sell. In the entire NYS area we tracked a couple down with the red color. Many of them had over 100 miles on them already and I wasn't about to buy a vehicle that had that high of a mileage. We found one that had 3 miles on it and yes we could of negotiated a slightly better pricing, but everyone deserves a profit and besides that, we were not hassled, anything forced upon us and most of all the customer service that we received from our HONDA dealership was better than we received when we got our Lexus. But feeling hosed, I wouldn't call it hosed, I would call it fair, being hosed is paying MSRP. |
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what was the dealership that quoted the price of $25541? thanks |
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Dallas area -- MSRP: $26,890 Invoice: $24,244 Paid: $24,750 (including mud guards, wheel locks and trunk liner) Added lifetime tint: $210 Financing is 60 mos.  3.84% (or 3.87%)...some oddball interest rate right under 3.9%...heh heh. Definitely didn't do as well as most others on this board when many appear to be paying below, at, or maybe pocket change above invoice this time of year. I'll be doing internet bids next time for sure! Buying experience at David McDavid Honda in Irving, TX: We got a serious salesman who had a lot of patience to the many changes of mind my wife went through on what color she wanted, etc. Their after-market saleswoman was professional and courteous. She didn't pressure us, nor act upset on virtually everything (except tint) we turned down. Sales managers were friendly enough. The financing guy tried to play us for stupid at first on the interest rate and warranty (that we were trying to refuse)...used "payments" to rationalize everything. After we got him under 3.9% on 60 months, though, he was still the same friendly, folksy guy. No attitude from him. I was impressed that they still had a woman up there well after close (like after midnight) going over things about the car after we finished financing. I've heard David McDavid Honda's "after the sales" service is great, and that they've really straightened up their act both on the sales and service sides since an ownership change. I'd definitely recommend them from what I've seen and heard. Damn nice car for the money! I've had an '81 Accord, a '95 Civic, and my Mother had an '87 Accord and a '98 Accord. They've come a long, long way. I can't get over the styling/finish inside. (fyi- My wife and I test drove a Cadillac CTS and were so sorely unimpressed with its interior. For months, it was at the top of our list of cars to look at. We wrote it off after looking at it for 45 minutes to an hour. Its VERY cheap looking inside. Think Chevrolet Cavalier). |
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| Gatrhumpy you paid $341 more than Tarun on the base price, so it's a little hard for you to say he got hosed. State taxes are a separate issue that absolutely are not used in a valid car buying comparison. Many posters on this board have no clue what they truly paid for a car, because a trade was involved in the deal! Many people paid 1,500 to $2000 or more than they should have, because they were not given fair market value on their car as part of the deal. It's always better to sell a car outright, rather than trade it in financially. In order to really know what a car cost you, it should include price of the car including options (hopefully less than invoice), destination, and any dealer added processing fees. State taxes, title, tag, tire deposal fees, etc. do not come into play, because they all vary state to state and must be paid by all consumers that live in that particular state. Now of course if your dealer gave you a great price way below invoice and gave you close to retail on your trade, you did get a great deal! | |
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Some of the "prices paid" are, indeed, too good to be true. Don't believe everything you read on the internet or you may get very frustrated trying to match some of these prices. |
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If a trade is involved, then the sale price of the new car really means nothing. Who can say what the car would sell for without figuring the trade allowance? I believe many of the figures on this board, but if the deal involves a trade, then the numbers are useless. regards, kyfdx |
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| You are both right on the money! | |
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I've done both in the past several months. I was pretty happy with the cash I got from selling my '95 Civic outright, but it was a pain in the butt dealing with the many phone calls and appointments, never hearing back from some people after they expressed initial interest, people wanting to haggle (which I wouldn't do), a few test drives, etc. After a couple of weeks of this, I felt like I had literally "worked" for most or all of the money I made over what I would have gotten for trade. My wife's '98 Malibu, on the other hand, wasn't going to be an easy sell, so we opted to trade it in. We did bring them up $500 from their initial trade offer, but we still got about $700 below what the trade value is supposed to be. Because we could have easily put several hundred into it had we kept it, because we got a tax break ($125) for trading it, and knowing that this car wasn't going to be as easy as the Civic, it was a no brainer. It really boils down to whether your car can sell itself, or if just makes more sense to take a loss and have it be someone else's problem. |
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First of all, like you said, selling your own car can be a real pain. You have to wait by the phone, deal with joyriders, flakes and non buyers...just like we do. Then they will want to grind you down on the price, they may need to arrange financing etc. You will have strangers on your doorstep who may decide to sue you (and win!) when the transmission fails three months later. But, yes, you can get a higher price...maybe. In states like ours with a sales tax credit, it may REALLY not be worth the headaches. Here in Washington State, we have a whopping 9.1% sales tax on cars. You want 10,000 for the trade we offred you 9000.00 for? Do the math. Now, on older cars that aren't worth much, yes, you can usually do better selling these yourself. |
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