Last post on Dec 05, 2013 at 6:45 AM
You are in the Prices Paid - Buying & Leasing Experiences
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Honda Accord, Coupe, Sedan
#29127 of 32169 Re: 2013 Accord LX CVTsedan [mike372]
Mar 28, 2013 (2:15 pm)
Start your calls tomm. your killing yourself getting nowhere today... the dealer i was referring to was price honda in D.E. Not in P.a. if you call price honda speak only to the internet manger. Every model is different on pricing. if by tomm night your at 300 to 600 below invoice make your best deal closest to your house. please go back and read my posts on buying and apply it to your calls tomm........... i keep on posting call as many dealerships tomm and make your best deal by Sat............ Thats were your leverage is in buying.. not today or yesterday........ and most likely not in new jersey... Good luck
#29128 of 32169 Re: 2013 Accord LX CVTsedan [brian125]
Mar 28, 2013 (3:59 pm)
You are right about the effort... but the only way I could see anything happening is by starting a few days before Saturday. Now I find out that Hamilton wants 150 for the wheel locks so that brings up the price with docfee to 21000. Which is the same for others ie price in pa. I dont believe anyone who deals with a PA/NJ dealer will get the car for 500 or more below invoice, its just not going to happen in NJ, whether the last day of the month, the second to the last day or the third to last day. I could be wrong but thats just the way I see it right now. And the MD dealeships, I am beginning to think that if I go there even the last day of the month they will not honor their internet prices. I dont want to drive 3 to 4 hours to find out. Some of these posted MD deals are too good to be true.
#29129 of 32169 Re: 2013 Accord LX CVTsedan [mike372]
Mar 28, 2013 (4:10 pm)
Hi Mike....sounds like you're stressed. Which dealer do you want to do business with?
#29130 of 32169 Re: 2013 Accord LX CVTsedan [graphicguy]
Mar 28, 2013 (5:42 pm)
Yes I am more than a bit stressed. I thought I could get the Accord LX CVT in NJ or eastern pa for around 20400 or 20500 inc doc fee but excluding NJ reg and tax. But it looks like its not going to happen. I am reluctant to drive to MD.
However, I am reconsidering it... just afraid that they will not honor price when I get there. I also thought the deal had to be closed, ie paid for and receipt of car by last day of month but some posters said they actually picked up car following month. I am thinking about putting it off a month, after I try to sort some things out regarding the price. But I am wondering if the end of April would be worst because the weather is getting better by that time and more people are buying as the weather improves. I dont buy new cars often cuz I cant afford to so its important to get a really good deal. But at this point I am thinking about end of April, since no dealers within 1.5 hours will take less than 21000. My long time girlfriend's 2000 civic is still running at 260000 miles and I am trying to negiotiate the car for her just like I did in 2000. At that time I got 11.2% off list and didnt put in nearly the time I have invested so far this time. I just dont like dealing with new car dealers. They are not the most honest business's around, to put as nicely as I can.
#29131 of 32169 Re: 2013 Accord LX CVTsedan [mike372]
Mar 28, 2013 (7:16 pm)
Mike...deep breaths. Someone mentioned, all car deals have their own dynamic. Some (OK, a lot) of the deals reported here are fiction. Plus, trade-ins, accessories, add-ons, credit scores, stock levels, etc. affect each and every deal. So, no two are alike.
The drive to buy exactly at the end of the month isn't necessary. Dealers are motivated to sell cars every day of the week, month, quarter. A slow day, a rainy/snowy day, a cold Tuesday night, etc....all could be construed as the ideal time to motivate a dealer to make a deal. Dealers are always motivated to make deals, on all days. It's why they exist. Maybe....HUGE MAYBE if a dealer needs one more car sale for end of year bonuses, you ould possibly save a few more dollars making a deal at the end of business on December 31........MAYBE!
The ideal time to buy is when you're ready to buy. $21,000 is a good deal.
Nothing wrong if you want to wait until April. Deals should not be significantly different then, than they are over the next couple of days.
#29132 of 32169 2013 Sport 6spd
Mar 28, 2013 (11:06 pm)
If I am to believe the prices I see people posting here, I didn't do all that well. But in the interest of sharing, I grabbed a Modern Metal 6spd for invoice + $150 in doc fees, plus $54 in title fees, and tax of course. Used Honda's 1.9% financing. No options or dealer accessories, no pinstripes or glass etching, no undercoating or extended warranties, though (almost) all were offered. The "gray" cars are relatively hard to find in these parts (NE Indiana)... the one I bought I apparently stumbled upon the same night it rolled off the truck... and the black ones are not exactly numerous, either. I did get offers from dealers as low as $21,900 (no car in stock with a 6spd) and as high as $22,300 (also no car in stock). I suppose I could've negotiated harder for a few hundred sheckels but I'm pretty happy with the outcome. A good deal on a good car. I did have a trade-in, but that wasn't part of the original offer. The price was independent of trade-in. This was the only negotiating I did, where the price of my trade-in was lower than I wanted, and they bumped it up to a level I was happy with, without trying to take it out of my hide elsewhere.
I ended up at Tom Wood Honda in Anderson, IN. I dealt with a woman named Kelli (sp?) after getting a price via Consumer Reports' car buying service. Tom Wood has the look of an old-school dealership but didn't hammer me with upselling or treat me like I had just fallen off the turnip truck. Wish I could say the same for the dealer in Fort Wayne, which was an enraging experience best saved for another time, but involved what I feel was a bait-and-switch advertisement offering 0.9% on "all new in-stock 2013 Hondas", where "all" didn't include the Accord but that wasn't specified. That wasn't the only issue but it was a biggie.
#29133 of 32169 Re: 2013 Accord LX CVTsedan [graphicguy]
Mar 28, 2013 (11:13 pm)
Thanks for the reply. I agree with everything you said, including the fact that alot of deals posted here are simply not true. Or there really is a trade even though they say there is not,etc. I say this because all the dealers are coming in at around 21000 plus reg and NJ tax. That is, all who are willing to give a good no BS price. The only exception to this is the dealer in MD. And who knows, I could drive 3.5 to 4 hours only to find out it is not true. And from my prior experience in negotiating cars for members of my family over the years, alot (obviously not ALL) of car salespeople are very distinquished in the art of lying. I am a car nut, having an intense interest in cars since before I could drive ( I have three of my own, all older models). So, with that said, I just may wait another month. But my girlfriend really needs a car soon, as she drives 20000 miles a year and her current car has 260,000 miles on it.
#29134 of 32169 Re: dont bother in N.j. [brian125]
Mar 29, 2013 (3:21 am)
I am going thru the same process on a Honda Accord EX-L right now. I had dealers send me their pricing earlier in the week. Some were ok with sending me pricing in an email, many were not. The best prices I received (in order) were from: honda of new rochelle, ny (they have alot of cars in the new inventory online); weymouth, ma; philipsburg easton honda, pa; and then paul miller and hamilton. I was able to find prices of $900 below invoice.
many of the dealers would throw numbers out to me and didn't want to give me a bottom line total. I sent multiple emails back trying to clarify the bottom line. after they never answered to confirm the total amount otd, ), i finally sent an email and said that if the price was what i thought i would be (what they hinted it would be in the email and there were no other misc charges), then i would give them a deposit for the car and just fax me a buyer's order.
hopefully, it will all work out when i drive to the dealership.
p.s. i didn't get anywhere or the prices were very high at: planet honda, garden state honda, rt. 22 honda, hillside honda, tarrytown honda, white plains honda, friendly honda, college park honda, md, anderson, md.
i found ray price honda to be just ok. and autosport honda insisted i have to come in (i live closeby, but its been a crazy week and i like giving the dealer that put their neck on the line my business).
#29135 of 32169 Accord LX CVT Purchase
Mar 29, 2013 (4:20 am)
On Wednesday I purchased a 2013 Accord LX CVT in Southeast Michigan (Detroit/Ann Arbor area) for 20,500 which included destination but not documentation fee. Was out the door for $21,900. Was between a lease and a purchase. Dealer offered my 1.89% financing for 72 months through Wells Fargo.
#29136 of 32169 Re: 2013 Accord LX CVTsedan [mike372]
Mar 29, 2013 (4:48 am)
I have a friend (actually, a retired Honda sales person) who frequents Edmunds. He said his dealership usually dumped internet requests, and used internet inquiries only to communicate whether they had the car the potential customer wanted. He said having a potential customer actually in the dealership was the way to get the pricing which would result in a sale.
That said, many dealerships will quote unrealistic prices on the phone to get the potential buyer into the showroom. Then, something in the deal changes.
Bottom line, until you see the figures on a contract, signed by the dealer, no deal is done....over the internet, on the phone, etc.
Personally, I don't view going to a dealership and talking to sales people/managers to be adversarial. I'm at the dealership to buy a car. They're there to sell a car.
I want to make it as quick and painless as possible. If you've done your homework (and it sounds like you have), go into the dealer. Pick out the car you want. You know what price you want to be. Write it up on your own....better yet, type it up to make it look official. Have line items for purchase price, TTL (put in a line for doc fees if you want, but I usually use a notation that my purchase price amount includes doc fees), taxes. Have a total at the bottom and tell the dealership that's the amount you're willing to pay. IF they accept it, the car is sold. If not, you'll just move on to the next dealership.
They may hesitate and even try to bump your offer. But, you won't know until you're either walking out their door. You know the drill. Salesman will take your offer to the sales manager. Sales manager will come over, ask you how you came up with the number (tell him/her you came up with it through lots of research, and talking to the other dealers in the area). Tell him it's a one time offer to drive their car away, right now.
My guess is if there's any meat on the bone for them to make a few hundred on the deal, they'll accept your offer. If not, they'll let you walk.
It sounds like you have plenty of dealers close to you. Deal with them. Your life will be much easier.
The dealer 90 minutes away really has committed to nothing for you. The local dealers pay the same amount for their cars as the dealer 90 minutes away does.