Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience
24566 messages, Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 10:27 AM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
|
I am a first-time car buyer about 45 minutes south of Houston. This forum has helped a ton in understanding the buying prices and how to negotiate prices. Over the weekend I went out to test drive cars for the second time, and I finally decided on the '09 Honda Accord LX-P Polished Metallic. I already have all my financing set-up, but now that I know which car I'm buying I'm just trying to find the best deal. We have not talked about any prices at the local dealer in our area so far I've just test drove and picked the car, but after I went home on Saturday I immediately started gathering internet quotes from the Houston dealers. Of course, we'd prefer to buy local, but Houston is still close enough to provide more options. One Houston dealer came this morning back with (rounded prices): $20,457 Base Price $1,278 Tax (6.25% in TX) $51 Inventory Tax $50 Document Fee $33 Title Fee $72. License Fee $24 Inspection Fee $21,965 Total Drive Out Does this look like a good deal? Friday is the day I plan to go with my dad to finalize a price.
|
|
|
Replying to: oneder1 (Mar 02, 2009 7:56 am) Do you mean that you went through the dealers' Web sites to get a quotes? I found that I got much better pricing from calling and asking to speak to an "Internet Salesperson" than I did when I just got the quotes through the Web sites. Why? Salespeople evaluate how serious a buyer is through a variety of means, and a form on a Web site doesn't give the salesperson a enough of that information, a lot of which is intangible. So the Internet quote is, I believe, not going to be a dealer's "best" number. For that you need to call and speak to a real live person (preferably an Internet Salesperson; see my previous posts for the reasons). It can be intimdating, especially doing it for the first time, but just focus on getting the right numbers, and don't be afraid to ask them to explain anything you don't understand, and to repeat the numbers so you know exactly should be on the final order form. Playing dumb ("Can you explain the difference between x and y?") can actually be a good tactic, because they might make the mistake of underestimating you, which gives you leverage in a couple ways. And be firm on doing the deal on your terms - I had a couple sales people tell me that I would have to come in to the showroom to get final pricing. I just said (nicely) something like - "Here's the deal - I know what car I want, and I'm buying one on Friday. And I'd really like to give you a shot at my business, but I can't come into your showroom. So it's your choice." Let them know that you're serious - that you know exactly what car/trim/color/options/warranty you want, that you have your financing lined up, and especially be clear that you're ready to buy on Friday and that you're talking to other dealers and whoever gives you the best price by the end of the day Thursday will get your business on Friday. A firm deadline like COB Thursday will make them focus. Good luck! Let us know how you do!
|
|
|
Hello guy, Would you guys be nice enough to tell me if i got a good deal on this. This is for an older year 08 Accord EX-L V6 sedan but NEW. I got it for 24,000 before taxes and registration. I was able to get them to throw in HID lights ($895), Lojack($795) and Lojack lifetime activation ($695) included for the price. Is this a good deal??? Thanks in advance! |
|
|
Replying to: nexofa (Mar 02, 2009 9:18 am) I've been hesitating start talking price over the phone, because all the fees added on to the base price confuse me. Mainly, I'm not sure what fees can and can't be negotiated. I will go back and read your previous posts for some extra information. One other thing though, when we went on Saturday to our local dealer, I asked for the Internet Salesperson whom I'd made the appointment with for test driving, but we sort of got handed off to a floor salesman once we were there. Is this normal? My mom and I even asked who we were dealing with towards the end because they were both talking to us at some point and were told it was the both of them.
|
|
|
Replying to: oneder1 (Mar 02, 2009 9:48 am) That's what happened to me too, and it worked out fine. When I walked in I asked for the person to whom I had spoken on the phone, the Sales manager looked down his list of appointments, saw my name, and just said that David would be helping me today. He had the exact figures that the Internet Salesperson had given me, except for the side molding, and he just took my word for the price we had discussed. I had made the woman on the phone promise several times that the numbers she was giving me were the exact numbers that would be on the final order form (and they were), and that their wouldn't be any surprises (there weren't). And we went over the numbers several times until I was comfortable that everything added up. Again, don't feel bad asking them to repeat things and explain things. You can just say something like "I've never spent $20,000 before so I just want to make sure I get this right. And decide ahead of time if you want a warranty or not, if you want LoJack, and all those dealer options. If you want any of these options, know what they're worth before you sit down with the finance manager. Google "Confession of an Auto Finance Manager" and "Confessions of a Car Salesman" - both are definitely worth the time to read. >all the fees added on to the base price confuse me... All the fees and stuff will begin to seem more managable if you write them down in a spreadsheet. Again, look back through some of my posts over the last few weeks for a description of how I did my spreadsheet (not that mine is the only way that works, but it made the process a lot less confusing, and if I spoke to someone and they lowered the price since the last time I spoke to them, it was really easy to see if that was the best price overall). And ask lots of questions - like it might not seem obvious to a first time buyer that "freight" is the same as "destination charge". The dealers do stuff like that just make it just a little harder for some people to compare apples to apples. A spreadsheet helps keep all that straight. If you don't have Excel, try Google Docs (free and available from anywhere). Plus, telling a salesperson that you're tracking everything in a spreadsheet lets them know that you mean business, and that they probably won't be able to BS you. And regardless of all the fees and stuff - all you're looking for is the absolutely best bottom line number, and you should be totally comfortable with how the salesperson arrived at it. Don't be distracted by the rebates, cash back, incentives, which fees can be negotiated and which can't, the "we're losing money on this deal..." comments, , etc. Don't play the monthly payment game. It's all irrelevant, and it's designed to distract you and to make you think you're getting a better deal. If you want a dealer to knock $500 off the price of a car to match a competitor, it shouldn't matter to you whether it comes off the base price of the car, or from the document fees, or whatever. Let them worry about that. Even though buying your first car is a very emotional thing, don't let your emotions take over the process. Kepp telling yourself that this is a business transaction, pure and simple. And try to overcome your reluctance to talk money. That's a signal to a salesperson, and not one that works in your favor. Don't expect to get their best price right away. You get an initial figure one day, then as the big day approaches you call to tell them that you've been shopping around, that you're ready to buy on Friday, and "is that really your very best price?" And then get them to repeat all the figures to make sure they match up to what they've told you before.
|
|
|
Great link alamocity. With the salesman at the nearby dealer where we take my wife's CRV for service, I tried making the argument (Step 5) that we should get a better deal on my new Accord because we'll be bringing in not one but two cars for service there. He didn't seem to care. I ended up buying somewhere else. |
|
|
Been to five dealers in the past month to trade my 08 Acura TL w/nav, six months old, and 3300 miles even up, for an 09 Accord EX Sdn L V-6 W/Nav. I had no takers, and was about to call it quits. I had one Honda Dealer in Manahawkin, NJ, state $8,000, and my car. I thought that he was joking, but he was serious. He on three occasions told me to sit tight, and wait a minute. He finally got it down to $6,000. It was time to leave. On my last try with another dealer in North Jersey, which was this past Saturday, I finally met a sales person who offer no b/s. His first offer was $3,600, and my car. I stated $1,500, and after a few minutes of waiting he came back, and said OK. It's the green color Accvord, which for some reason is difficult to come by in the V-6 W/Nav. He stated that he should be able to have it in his dealership by the end of this week. On the agreement, it states the following; "If A Purchase, The Following Apply: Vehicle Protection Program $198.00, Credit Inquiry Fee (if applicable) $19.00, Co-Buyer Credit Inquiry Fee (if applicable) $19.00 (Wife will be on title), Registration/ Title Fee, with Transfer checked off, $40.50, DOC Fee, $279.00, and Online Registration Fee, $7.70. The registration fee is hand written, and the rest highlighted on the form that was there when form was made. Before I signed form, I stated that I wanted what was on my TL at no charge, and that was pin stripe, wheel locks, mud guards, and matching color door edge guards. When I'm called to inform me that the car is in, I'm going to ask at no charge, for matching color door protection molding. I new that I would take a hit in selling the TL after such a short time of ownership. I could have sold it privately, but would of paid sales tax big time when purchasing the Accord at agreed price. I'll pay sales tax only on $1,500. However, I strongly feel that my hit wasn't as bad as I thought. The TL is a great car, but because of a personal situation I had to sell it. MSRP for Accord is apprx. $31,575. The price accepted by the dealer for the Accord was $27,400. |
|
|
Replying to: nexofa (Mar 02, 2009 1:38 pm) Thank you alamocity that link was great. I had not seen that site yet in my searching on the internet. It is very well laid out with steps for someone like me. We shall see how it goes! I'll be sure to stop back by in a few days (and hopefully I've bought my Accord). |
|
|
Just bought yesterday in Maryland. I don't have the exact numbers (except the OTD price) on the top of my head, but I think I got a good deal. 2009 Accord EX 4cyl Auto Sedan in Royal Blue Base Price = $20500 + Tax & Fees = $22000 Out the door I knew it was the last day for the incentives, so I tried to get it as low as I can.
|
|
You are here:
Forums
Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2010 Honda Accord
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
