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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience
24570 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 9:21 PM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
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Replying to: rik4 (Feb 24, 2009 5:29 pm) |
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Well I don't think I got ripped off, but I certainly didn't rip them off, and might should have done a little better. LXP. Silver with gray interior. No trade. No money down (3.9% through local credit union). Florida, with 6% sales tax and a few standard state fees. Tag transfer. Includes trunk liner, splash guards, and window tint. OTD, 21,414. Hope it helps. |
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I am planning to buy an Accord LX-P. I live in Houston area. The quotes am receiving from the dealers are much higher than the prices posted in this forum. Any tips on a dealer offers good discounts??
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Replying to: skrish (Feb 25, 2009 8:48 am) 1) Tell the salesperson (only if it's true) that you're ready to buy the specific model + trim by a particular date, and that the dealer who gives you the best deal by the close of business on the day before that date will get your business. The very end of the month is usually a good time to buy since sales performance bonuses are usually determined on a monthly basis. Make sure they know you've done your homework, but that you're not desperate to close a deal. I bought mine (ACcord EX-L sedan 4cyl no nav) on New Year's Eve. 2) Get your financing lined up ahead of time. Get your credit score online for free. Get pre-approved at a local bank, credit union, or with Honda Finance. Don't play the "monthly payment game" with the dealer. That's a signal to the dealer that they can easily distract you from the bottom line. Remember they make money off the financing as well. Only go with the dealer financing if it's a better deal, then use it as leverage in your negotiation. And don't be distracted by the "cash back" incentives, factory rebates, etc. - just focus on the bottom line. 3) I don't know if it works this way everywhere, but I was told that the Internet sales staff at the dealer where I eventually ended up buying my Accord are paid a flat fee per car they sell, instead of a commission based on the price they negotiate, like the showroom salespeople. Which means that they can give you a lower price since their motivator is simply to close as many deals as they can. So I called around and asked to speak to an Internet Saleserson. 3) Keep a detailed spreadsheet of all the people at the different dealers that you speak to, the dates you last spoke to them, the prices they quote you. And make sure they quote you prices on your terms, not theirs. My spreadsheet had a column for each dealer, then rows for every single cost: base cost, freight, tags, tax, etc. and a bottom line total for the OTD price. Don't be shy about asking them to repeat themselves and to let them know that you're building a spreadsheet to compare various dealers' prices. That lets them know you're serious. If you know you want a particular option (I knew I wanted the side moulding) get the price up front, and don't let them tell you that those prices are handled by someone else. Don't let them make you feel bad about asking them to repeat the numbers, and repeating their promise that there are no other hidden costs. I just told them that if any of the numbers on the final work order were different than the ones we were agreeing to, that I would simply walk out of the room. And be prepared to do that. After I finally determined exactly what car I wanted, I began calling dealers about two weeks before the end of the month, getting their "first number" - about $24k in my case. A week later I did a second round of calls, letting them know that I was still serious about buying on the date I had mentioned previously, and asking them to re-visit the price they had given me ("I've been talking to dealers x, y, and z about this car, and I just wanted to make sure that this is your very best price"). I got prices in the low-mid $23k range. As luck would have it, the deal I ended up with was from a post on this board, which I stumbled upon about three or four days before the end of the month. I spent the last couple days seeing if anyone could beat it, and was told that my price couldn't possibly be true, that the dealer was going to switch something at the last minute. It ended up being about $1000 lower than the next best price. I ended up with a base price of $21,800, and about $23,900 OTD.
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nexofa, your price was outstanding. I'm just curious if anyone else has come close to that base + destination price. I was shooting for about 1k under invoice or around 23k (including destination fee, ads, etc.) before tax, title, license...but your post makes me want to be more aggressive. But that may be out of reach around here (midwest).
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Replying to: ajclone (Feb 25, 2009 6:30 pm)
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Replying to: packerjohn (Feb 25, 2009 7:27 pm) |
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Replying to: rickwjenn (Feb 08, 2009 8:31 am) Just wondering how many others have been able to "order" the car they wanted at a good price.
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Replying to: nexofa (Feb 25, 2009 12:35 pm) Thanks for your tips! |
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Replying to: dnhx (Feb 26, 2009 1:48 pm) |
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