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Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

22154 messages, Last post on Oct 14, 2008 at 3:16 AM
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Replying to: tvs513 (Mar 09, 2006 10:20 am) |
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I am in the market for Accord V6 EX. The best price I have received so far is $27K drive out, with window tint. The break up is as follows: Price with Dest. Charge: $25,042 Window Tint: $ 145 Sales Tax ( Inventory Tax ( Document & Other Fee: $ 55 Title & Tag: $ 125 TOTAL DRIVE OUT PRICE: $27,000 I would appreciate feedback on: The quote is from Gillman Honda of Fort Bend in metro Houston area. Has anyone had any experience (good or bad) with this dealership? So far the Internet sales person has been pretty decent and reasonable -- no trying to up sell unnecessary options and accessories. |
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Replying to: tvs513 (Mar 05, 2006 6:02 pm) |
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Replying to: bartalk3 (Mar 05, 2006 3:23 pm) |
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Replying to: chan101qua (Mar 06, 2006 2:55 am) |
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Replying to: jhinsc (Mar 09, 2006 6:01 am)
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| When I bought my car, I bought an extended warranty of 6yrs/100,000miles, $100 deductible. New accords usually come with the 3/36000 & 5/60000 warranty, right? So, now that I have the extended warranty with $100 deductible does it mean that everytime I go to get something fixed I have to pay $100 or does this start after the original warranty with car expires? | |
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..."or does this start after the original warranty with car expires?"... Short answer, your above quote, your latter option !!! There is SO much over lap that if you take the oem warranty in account, really you are NOT paying for a 6 year 100,000 extended warranty with a 100 deductible. You are really paying for a (minus -)OEM warranty of 3 year/36,000 and/or 5 year 60,000= 3 year/64,000 and/or 1 year 40,000 mile warranty. (does this make sense graphically?) So you would pay the 100 deductible EVERY TIME you invoke it during the ENTIRE time frame. I don't see why you would while UNDER the oem warranty. So you would pay the 100 deductible when the oem warranty is no longer in effect.
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Replying to: traccord (Mar 11, 2006 10:15 am) Generally, it only applies to leasing. Think of leasing as renting a car. Why would you put down a lot of money to rent something? That down payment effectively become non-refundable if you have an accident severe enough to total the car or if it's stolen when it's fairly new. The insurance company will not pay you retail value of the car so you can get you money back, they pay wholesale. Yes, the down payment would lower your payments, but your total out of pocket cost over the life of the lease is the same. You can put the down payment in the bank and use it to help subsidize your payments. When purchasing, you can do it one of two ways. With a low APR, you can put little down and have higher payments. With a higher APR, it makes sense to put more down and not pay the interest. Less down, and you could effectively be "upside-down" as soon as you pull off the dealer lot. To resolve the problem of owing more than the value of the car with either a lease or purchase, you can buy GAP insurance. Many leases have this included. When I got my 06 Accord, the dealer tried to sell me their GAP policy for $499. I said no thanks, and then called my insurance agent and had it added to my auto policy for $13 year. |
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Replying to: ruking1 (Mar 11, 2006 10:38 am) I went back to the dealership and they said that none of their warranties are $0 deductible. And I would have to resign the whole contract to have the extended warranty taken out. |
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