Last post on Nov 07, 2013 at 7:33 AM
You are in the Toyota Highlander
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Toyota Highlander, SUV
#5093 of 5330 Re: 2008 Toyota Highlander - Water Pump [dieselclyde]
May 19, 2011 (6:28 pm)
It is doable from the passenger wheel well, google it. This would DIY way though. I'll quote a poster from another forum who had to replace the pump on his own
"Here is the official scoop: Toyota TIS says flat out the engine needs to come out at the tune of 11 hours. Even Toyota corporate follows this declaration. At 74k they were willing to pay half of the repair which was quoted at $1300 from 3 different dealers. I was not about to pay even $650 to replace a water pump that I got in town for $50 brand new. I did the job on my '08 Limited Highlander 2GRFE V6 in less than half the time Toyota quoted (around 4hours). Knowing how to tackle it now I am sure I could even save more time if I had to do it again. It was actually fairly easy just time consuming since there are 16 bolts on the water pump alone AFTER you get to it. "
Jun 18, 2011 (7:58 am)
I have a 2004 4-cylinder FWD Highlander. A couple months ago I got a letter saying there would be a recall due to the floormats, but the illustration bore no resemblance to how my floormats are held in place. I just got the actual recall notice in yesterday's mail, so I must assume they have checked the serial number and determined that my vehicle is affected.
But what does the HV stand for in the phrase "Certain 2004-2006 Model Year Highlander/Highlander HV Floor Carpet Cover and Retention Clips"? Thanks.
#5095 of 5330 Re: What does HV mean? [herzogtum71]
Jun 18, 2011 (3:22 pm)
HV stands for "Hybrid Vehicle"
#5096 of 5330 Re: What does HV mean? [grahampeters]
Jun 19, 2011 (6:26 pm)
Thanks, Graham. Sometimes things are so obvious that I can't figure them out!
#5097 of 5330 Transfer case & Differential
Jun 29, 2011 (8:22 pm)
Do the transfer case oil or differential fluid have to be changed ever on my 05 Higjlander?
Live in WI
#5098 of 5330 Front Drive Shaft failing on 2002
Jul 13, 2011 (3:08 pm)
I have a 2002 AWD 6 Cyl Highlander with only 88,000 miles. It has been babied and looks and runs like new. At my recent service they tell me that my front drive shaft universal joints are going. Even though the drive shaft comes in 3 pieces they say you can only get the whole thing for a $1,500 repair cost. You can't just buy the front shaft (crazy!!!!)
I have never had a drive shaft failure in any vehicle, especially at less than 90,000 miles.
Is this a common problem? This is important to me where typically if there is a systemic problem you replace a design-defective $1,500 part with another design-defective $1,500 part.
Has anyone just replaced just the front shaft? It looks like 4 or 5 bolts and looks like you remove these bolts and it would drop down and you could pull the spline out of the transmission. This is the way that it worked for the first of my 5 Toyota's, a '72 Corolla. I was thinking of looking for a junk yard replacement. I have seen references where the same parts are used for 2001-2007 so I would look for the newest possible. Any feedback on this?
The repair manager was surprised that the whole drive shaft need to be replaced but also did a "dudge-nudge, wink-wink" suggestion that I might check out some performance company that might be able to replace the universal joint parts of the front only drive shaft. Has anyone gone this route?
This has prompted me to think about dumping the car as a trade-in, not for a Toyota. I have had 5 Toyota's that have been good but this one (and the sludge issue) has pushed me to try a CR-V.
This is because my other issue is high oil consumption which I have also seen on this discussion group. I have been religious with oil changes and have used synthetic oil after break-in. I had never used oil between changes (5000 miles with synthetic) but the dealer recently switched to Toyota 0W20 from Valvoline 45W30 ( but 5W30 is in the manual). Since then I have been using 1 quart per 1,0000 miles. I must admit that I typically don't check the oil between changes because I never had to for 40 years with the cars I've had but the oil light has never come on. with my Highlander. If the car was sitting for a while I was getting a blue oil smoke poof at start-up (typical for valve guide leakage???). I just changes the PCV valve and switched to Mobile One High Mileages 5W30. If this doesn't help, I'm definitely dumping this piece of sh*t car. I'm also due for the $600+ timing belt change so this accelerates my decision.
#5099 of 5330 Re: Front Drive Shaft failing on 2002 [eenglish99]
Jul 13, 2011 (6:39 pm)
This worries me...I have the same vehicle with 105,000 miles on it...had the timing belt replaced a few months back..but those U joints worry me. At 54,000 miles, I started using all kinds of oil...engine needed to be replaced. So I only have 51,000 miles on the engine. Keep us posted in this forum...thanks.
#5100 of 5330 Re: Front Drive Shaft failing on 2002 [eenglish99]
Jul 14, 2011 (4:39 am)
I'm a little confused by your message. It says "Even though the drive shaft comes in 3 pieces they say you can only get the whole thing ." Each driveshaft is more than three pieces, but basically its the center shaft, two CV joints, and two ends. It is unusual to try to replace parts of a driveshaft.
Then your post says "You can't just buy the front shaft." I think there may be some misunderstanding there - you can buy either front shaft separately. Rockauto has them for from $45 - $99.
Go somewhere else - no need to have it serviced at a dealer. Driveshaft replacement is a common repair and can be done by any competent shop.
Also, driveshaft failure often occurs if any boot is torn by some road debris, then water and abrasive mud, etc, enters the CV joint. I doubt it's a design defect, I don't recall anything about them on this forum.
Re your oil consumption, it'll be interesting to see if the return to 5W-30 solves the problem. Some mfgs say that a quart per 1000 is normal, but I don't buy it. Since you've been using synthetic, your engine should be pristine at 88K.
#5101 of 5330 Re: Front Drive Shaft failing on 2002 [jrfiero]
Jul 14, 2011 (6:39 am)
Perhaps I need some clarification, jrfiero.
Thanks for the post.
I am referring to the drive shaft that connects the front transmission assembly to the rear differential, not the CV joints that drive the front wheels.
The dealer says that they only SELL the whole shaft but it appears to come in three pieces. The front piece looks like it is has a flat plate that bolts at the rear of the first section to a bearing assembly (connected to the second section) and when unbolted would drop down ( I hope) and would then just pull out from the rear of the transmission, with (I would guess) have a spline attached at the front. There are no rubber boots and the universal joints at the end of the section have no grease fittings (which I believe is typical for most modern construction).
I checked Rockauto and they sell the front drive CV joints and drive shaft bearings but not drive shaft themselves (at least I didn't see any). Thanks for the link to Rockauto. They seem to have a good selection and I missed them with my prior searches.
I did find several references to problems with the Highlander drive shafts in this board which makes me worried about replacing an old crappy part with another new crappy part. See #4953, #3533, #2546 and # 4953.
If this doesn't seem to be a universal defect then going the used part route with a low mileage part might be the best route.
I would appreciate any feedback from anyone who has replaced the front drive shaft piece or seen it replaced to confirm that it would come out as easily as I am guessing (4-5 bolts and drop and pull out the shaft.
#5102 of 5330 Re: Front Drive Shaft failing on 2002 [eenglish99]
Jul 14, 2011 (8:03 am)
Tell your dealer to go pound sand.
Since the rear wheels are RARELY driven at any significant level of torque it is EXTREMELY unlikely that you have a U-joint failure, failing due to wear. The only time any significant level of torque is routed to the rear driveline is once TC has activated and as of course you know the engine is simultaneously dethrottled along with braking of the front wheels.
So, if the rear driveline is U-joints are failing it is most likley due to a factory defect....someone forgot to lube the bearings.
U-joints have always been a relative inexpensive DIY job for me.