Last post on Nov 07, 2013 at 7:33 AM
You are in the Toyota Highlander
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Toyota Highlander, SUV
Jul 08, 2010 (10:24 am)
I own a 2002 Toyota Highlander. My right rear tail light keeps going out. I have changed the bulb and it will work for a couple of depressions on the brake pedal, then stop working. Sometimes, if I turn the headlights on; it works all of the time, other times there is nothing I can do to get it to work. I have check all of my fuses to insure that they are all functional.
The wires all look good and in tact.
Does anyone know if that "blue" relay looking box under the spare tire housing ever goes bad? Does it have a name? AND what are your thoughts on replacing with a used one from a junk yard vs buying new?
Thanks for the help!
Jul 08, 2010 (2:55 pm)
What do you think is fair to change pads and to resurface the rotors? Are these realistic prices?
Here are the following quotes I received.
$600 - Toyota dealer
$350 - reputable shop close to my home who will use Toyota pads and resurface rotors
Here is what another shop close to my house tells me.
Estimate to perform a complete brake system inspection. Replace brake pads. Resurface brake rotors (if within specs) and service brake calipers:
Additional $17.00 (per axle)to upgrade to a premium ceramic brake pad that’s guaranteed not to make noise
Ceramic pads wear longer, improve stopping distances and lower the amount of brake dust on the wheels.
I doubt if your rotors after that many miles will look good enough to ignore, in order to give you a quality “professional” brake job, they will most probably need to at least be resurfaced and depending on wear may even need to be replaced.
They seem like a pain to deal with, but they told me if they use their brake pads it would be $340 for all 4.
#4923 of 5330 Re: 05hl05 [05highlander05]
Jul 09, 2010 (6:26 am)
First of all, I assume you really don't need your rotors replaced or resurface, whatever a dealer or independent mechanic says. Unfortunately, I learned the hard way that they lie a lot. of course, ceramic pads may not wear in like standard pads.
I paid $110 for a complete set of original equipment Toyota pads -- front and rear -- and a dollar for a packet of brake grease. It will take me two or three hours to clean everything and replace the pads. It is important to know where to use the brake grease to keep everything moving smoothly and to keep the brakes from squealing.
Assuming at least a hundred dollars an hour for a mechanic and a reasonable markup for parts, I guess $500 for the whole job is reasonable. A good mechanic, with professional equipment, will do the job a lot faster than I can.
Jul 09, 2010 (10:20 am)
So overall I am safe to wait until the brake sensors come on?
#4925 of 5330 Re: sensors [05highlander05]
Jul 09, 2010 (10:30 am)
I would, unless planning on a long, long trip -- thousands of miles -- or just want to get it over with so you can forget the whole thing. I like bargains, which is why I wait to hear a sensor and then do as much as I can myself. It would be a lot easier if dealers and mechanics were completely honest.
Jul 09, 2010 (10:36 am)
I have 3mm in the front. 2mm in the back. That's getting low so I gotta keep an eye on it.
#4927 of 5330 Air condition drain tubes
Jul 25, 2010 (8:36 am)
Recently took my car for servicing because my front and second row floorboards were very wet(2008 highlander) Customer service rep said leaves from the hood clogged the system. Running the ac system now I can see water draining under the car. Does anyone know how many places water should be exiting ? I only see it from one place
#4928 of 5330 Re: Air condition drain tubes [ripple4]
Jul 25, 2010 (3:52 pm)
AC condensation is normal from just in front of the glovebox dripping to the ground.
#4929 of 5330 Re: Air condition drain tubes [ripple4]
Jul 26, 2010 (1:31 am)
Two separate issues
1 Drains from the air inlets in front of the windscreen are the ones that collect leaves. When the drains become blocked, water on this area flows into the air box and then into the car, wetting the floor as you have experienced.
These normally have drains on either side which you can check by aiming a hose at the windscreen and watching where the water flows out below the car.
Routinely, you should clear the cabin air intakes of leaves when you have the bonnet (hood to you) lifted and also check that they are draining correctly. Remember to do this regularly in Autumn (Fall to you)
If drains become blocked, look under the car, find the drain hoses which drop down (easier to identify if you have run water through them in the past. a fine hose, such as a 1/4" drip system hose can be fed up through the drain pipe. I have fabricated a join to a normal hose pipe to inject a fine jet of water to clear any dirt or leaves clogged in the pipe - Klugers/Highlanders are less problematic in this area than most cars)
2 Air Conditioner drain has a single outlet about centrally located near firewall. Run the air conditioner on a humid day and then park on dry concrete., Look under the care and you will see where the water drains down from a short hose protruding downward. You rarely need to clear this as it only drains the condenser coil of moisture from the car interior.
#4930 of 5330 Re: 60k maintenance questions, dealer vs following list [mikefm58]
Jul 27, 2010 (8:09 am)
I am getting ready to go in for an oil change. I usually look in the maintenance manual and only ask them to check anything that is specific to that time frame excluding what they always do without being asked..(If you ask, they charge you to do it as in "I want a 120,000 mile check up) I actually have over 130,000 miles on my 2004 V6 Highlander Limited. It is 4 wheel drive and I do some light towing: trailer with kayaks) The 120 check has several different things that I didn't do then. One was the replacing of limited slip differential oil. In one of your answers, I see where you said that it is in a closed system so I'll eliminate that. Below is the online schedule I referenced from the Toyota site that someone else mentioned in this forum (I love this forum!)
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1
Replace limited-slip differential oil, if equipped (4WD)
Replace spark plugs 2
Re-torque drive shaft bolt
Replace engine air filter
Replace cabin air filter (if equipped)
Inspect the following:
Automatic transmission fluid
Ball joints and dust covers
Brake lines and hoses
Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs 3
Drive shaft boots
Engine valve clearance
Exhaust pipes and mountings
Front differential oil
Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses
Fuel tank cap gasket
Radiator, condenser and/or intercooler
Rear differential oil (except 2WD)
Steering gear box
Steering linkage and boots
Transfer case oil (4WD)
Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions:
Driving While Towing
Replace front differential oil
Replace rear differential oil, including limited-slip (except 2WD)
Replace transfer case oil (4WD)
Replace transmission fluid or oil
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis
Driving in Desert or On Dirt Roads
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis
1) Reset the oil replacement reminder (“MAINT REQD”) light after replacing engine oil, if vehicle is equipped with this light.
2) Required under the terms of the Emission Control Warranty.
3) Inspect thickness measurement and disc runout
Can you give me info. on replacing the spark plugs; as far as I can tell, the car is running okay. (the footnote says this is required due to emissions standards) And also on re-torquing drive shaft bolt. There are several things listed under the inspect part that is not usual: example drive shaft boots.
So my overall question is when I go in for the oil change, what would you ask for additionally to be done or inspected?