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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

4696 messages,  Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 11:52 AM

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What is this discussion about? Toyota Highlander, SUV

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#4618 of 4696 Re: Can't find a Highlander I want [texastrucker58] by mikefm58 Sep 28, 2009 (5:50 am)
Replying to: texastrucker58 (Sep 28, 2009 2:16 am) Hmmmmm, quite surprising as I have an 04 HL with just a 4 cyl. that has the tow package. Why not just go for the 4-Runner?
#4619 of 4696 Re: Can't find a Highlander I want [texastrucker58] by worthflorida Sep 28, 2009 (9:29 am)
Replying to: texastrucker58 (Sep 28, 2009 2:16 am) Most tow packages, especially on car base vehicles only referred to a few items. A wiring harness, larger alternator, an outboard transmission cooler and maybe a factor installed hitch (cars only). Larger radiators were added at one time but not any longer since all car base vehicles have dual fans & a larger radiator for the AC. Today, almost all trucks and cars have outboard transmission radiator cooler, power steering cooler and the largest alternator available.   So look at the tow ratings for the Highlander and it will tow, you'll just need to add a hitch and wire. A two packages for a truck frame vehicle is a different story.
#4620 of 4696 Any problems with the bolts stripping from the cylinder heads by aheider Sep 28, 2009 (9:40 am)
I took my 2004 Highlander in to the dealer to have them check why I kept smelling coolant for the last two days. Within 1 hour after dropping my car off I was called to tell me that a bolt stripped from the cylinder head and that I would need to replace the motor ($6500). I was then proceeded to be told that they had seen this a couple of times before but they could not repair it without replacing the engine. They also explained the reason for the problem was that the engine was made of aluminum and the bolts were metal and after a period of time the metal would wear out the aluminum. I quickly pulled my car out of there and took it to my mechanic who went on to re-thread the engine and put everything back together. Just to be safe I had them redo all 10 bolts. Has anyone had a similar problem? Replies to this message: wwest (Sep 28, 2009 10:22 am) mikefm58 (Sep 28, 2009 4:03 pm) alotawatts (Sep 29, 2009 12:12 am) webgood (Sep 29, 2009 5:29 am) aheider (Sep 29, 2009 8:00 am) retropia (Sep 29, 2009 11:52 am)
#4621 of 4696 Re: Any problems with the bolts stripping from the cylinder heads [aheider] by wwest Sep 28, 2009 (10:22 am)
Replying to: aheider (Sep 28, 2009 9:40 am) Stealing Dealers...??   Of course, SOP.....!!
#4622 of 4696 Re: Any problems with the bolts stripping from the cylinder heads [aheider] by mikefm58 Sep 28, 2009 (4:03 pm)
Replying to: aheider (Sep 28, 2009 9:40 am) Just curious, what engine do you have, 4 or 6 cyl? It sounds like your dealer had a boat payment coming due. Replies to this message: alotawatts (Sep 29, 2009 12:12 am)
#4623 of 4696 Re: Any problems with the bolts stripping from the cylinder heads [mikefm58] by alotawatts Sep 29, 2009 (12:12 am)
Replying to: mikefm58 (Sep 28, 2009 4:03 pm) Coolant leaks/ Head bolts is a known problem on some older 4 cyl engines. Lots of info via Google
#4624 of 4696 Re: Any problems with the bolts stripping from the cylinder heads [aheider] by webgood Sep 29, 2009 (5:29 am)
Replying to: aheider (Sep 28, 2009 9:40 am) I smell a bag of manure more than I smell coolant here...time for a second opinion! Regards, BGood
#4625 of 4696 Re: Any problems with the bolts stripping from the cylinder heads [aheider] by aheider Sep 29, 2009 (8:00 am)
Replying to: aheider (Sep 28, 2009 9:40 am) I have a 4 cylinder. The thing that gets me is if they are aware that the steel bolts will strip the aluminum part of the engine why do the mfg keep making them. I know stupid question!
#4626 of 4696 Re: Any problems with the bolts stripping from the cylinder heads [aheider] by retropia Sep 29, 2009 (11:52 am)
Replying to: aheider (Sep 28, 2009 9:40 am) My 2001 6-cylinder had a coolant leak, but it wasn't from a stripped bolt from the cylinder head. I traced it to a small metal plate on the front of the engine, just under the exhaust manifold, and opposite the back of the radiator. The plate is held on by two bolts, and is designed to be removed if you want to install a dealer-available block heater.   I removed the two bolts, pried off the plate, cleaned off the remaining rubber gasket (it was thin and had worn out), applied a new bead of high-temp silicone sealant, reattached the plate and that stopped the coolant leak.
#4627 of 4696 Oil change on 3.3L V6 by lmacmil Sep 29, 2009 (1:04 pm)
I have always had the dealer change the oil on my wife's Highlander. Haven't done my own oil changes in 5+ years. One dealer is up to almost $40 but it's done in 45 min. The other dealer takes "walk in" oil changes and only charges $16 but the last time I went, it was over 2 hrs before they finished (they told me 1 hr to 1:15 when I dropped it off). The cheaper one also uses a NAPA filter instead of Toyota brand. I won't go to a "quickie" oil change place.   Thinking about doing it myself next time but I'm concerned about access to the filter. It's under the exhaust manifold heat shield and there's not much room to reach in there. Would like to hear from anyone who's done an oil change on the 3L or 3.3L engine about how difficult it is to remove the oil filter. Replies to this message: phrosut (Sep 30, 2009 8:56 am) lmacmil (Oct 01, 2009 7:28 am) wwest (Oct 01, 2009 8:51 am) and 6 more...

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