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SUVs Toyota Highlander Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair
4696 messages, Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 11:52 AM
You are in the Toyota Highlander Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: tsotsi (Jul 10, 2009 12:00 pm) Curious thing is that I heard no sound at all when I braked, and the service rep said that the 2004 had no brake indicators. So I wouldn't expect to hear anything even though he described the wear as being basically metal on metal at that point. One other point is that brakes on a vehicle with manual transmission tend to last longer than on a vehicle with an automatic. I had a 1994 Corolla station wagon that I traded in when I got the Highlander. It had a manual transmission, and I never had to have the brake pads or rotors replaced in 111,000 miles.
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Replying to: tsotsi (Jul 10, 2009 12:00 pm) Brake usage is very much dependent upon usage patterns. I have 112,000km (say 70,000 miles) on my Kluger which is used in a combination of city and freeway with some on-dirt. Last service suggests pads are at 55% remaining wear and rotors not significantly worn. However, rotors do warp if wheel studs overtightened (actually noticeable after wheels rotated). I tend to drive to minimize fuel usage, reading traffic ahead, coasting to lights and minimizing braking, but keeping up with traffic flow or ahead. TYpically, I find that the aggressive driver ahead has made it to just in front of me by the end of my commute, so not overly laid back. Cheers Graham |
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Replying to: wwest (Jul 09, 2009 8:14 pm) But what you are saying that since the low pressure switch cuts out the AC clutch, it also cuts out (to the computer) the idle speed control and the AC fan? I've had this happen on other cars, as the low pressure switch cuts out the clutch, the low pressure side slowly build up some pressure and the clutch kicks in again and this on/off cycle continues. Usually, the idle and fans still operate as if the AC was on and working 100%.
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Replying to: worthflorida (Jul 11, 2009 4:36 am) The blinking A/C light typically means the ECU is trying to run the compressor but the clutch or the drive belt is slipping. In that case the ECU would initially go ahead and open the throttle and turn on the fans as the expectation was that the compressor is operational. Did you say the engine stalled when the A/C was switched on..?? |
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Replying to: herzogtum71 (Jul 10, 2009 12:46 pm) The economy is bad and dealers aren't making money selling new cars. Service departments are their cash cow. It certainly shouldn't hurt anything (but your pocketbook) to change the pads early, but it makes me nervous when service reps don't tell the truth. I am going to start checking everything they tell me from now on.
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My 05' Highlander has 70,000 miles and finally needs the front brake pads replaced. The dealer has bumped their repair rates recently because I suspect it is the only way they can stay in business since they are not selling too many cars. I'm considering going to Brake Check, Just Brakes, Brake Specialists, or some other brake repalcement company, but I am afraid I will get sub-standard brake pads that will squeel. Has anyone had any good experiences replacing brake pads at any aftermarket company? If so, I need your advice and wisdom. THANKS!
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| On front brakes I had dealer do them, they are better at rsurf. the rotors. Ask the other places what kind of pads they sell; go to Auto parts stores price out different pads see what the dealer sell as well. I have never had a problem with the dealer installed pads. I know the dealer charges more but they know Toyotas. | |
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Replying to: ethericone (Jul 15, 2009 8:30 am)
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Replying to: mikefm58 (Jul 15, 2009 10:00 am) My 2001 still had pad thickness over the wear limit, which IIRC is only 1 mm, at ~60,000 miles when I replaced them because the VA safety inspectors were worried about them lasting another year. Costs - I get coupons from three competing Toyota dealers, and there is almost always an active 25% off parts special going on, which makes original equipment competitive with discount stores, and original equipment is almost always better quality. If your servicer recommends resurfacing or replacement of rotors, ask why - look at the surfaces of the rotors if possible. They don't need to be glass smooth, new pads will bed in quickly to minor irregularities in the surface. The only reason to replace rotors is if they have worn too thin (or they somehow have huge gouges), and the shop should show you a measurement, and refer to a service limit. HL pads are not very aggressive, and shouldn't wear rotors to replacement by the first pad change (or the second).
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Replying to: tsotsi (Jul 11, 2009 8:17 am) |
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