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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

4694 messages,  Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 7:16 AM

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What is this discussion about? Toyota Highlander, SUV

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#4448 of 4694 Re: Leaking engine seal [electricdesign] by steve_ HOST Dec 04, 2008 (8:22 pm)
Replying to: electricdesign (Dec 04, 2008 7:43 pm) It's interesting (to me anyway) that you can't tell much of anything by looking at or smelling engine oil, but it's a pretty good way to inspect transmission fluid.   Hey, you should buy my Quest - great VQ drivetrain and it meets your mileage criteria.   Ok, back to Highlanders. Replies to this message: wwest (Dec 05, 2008 10:32 am) steve_ (Dec 05, 2008 10:38 am)
#4449 of 4694 Re: Leaking engine seal [steve_] by wwest Dec 05, 2008 (10:32 am)
Replying to: steve_ (Dec 04, 2008 8:22 pm) Why do you say "looking" at engine oil isn't a good way to tell if it needs to be changed..??   Engine lubricating oil is EXPECTED to become dirty due to byproducts of the combustion process getting past the piston rings and valve seals. Engine oil is formulated to hold these particles in suspension whereas ATF is formulated otherwise. Absent the ATF having been overheated, drop the sump pan on your transmission and you will undoubtedly find a layer of debris from the wear of the frictional clutch surfaces, but a reasonably clean and clear ATF.   I always run my engines long enough to get up to normal operating temperature just before draining the engine oil. That way I drain off most of the contamination that might otherwise have settled to the bottom of the sump. Replies to this message: steve_ (Dec 05, 2008 10:38 am)
#4450 of 4694 Re: Leaking engine seal [wwest] by steve_ HOST Dec 05, 2008 (10:38 am)
Replying to: wwest (Dec 05, 2008 10:32 am) Right, it's supposed to get dirty with everything held in suspension or trapped by the filter, unlike transmission fluid. You can't tell by looking at your oil if it needs to be changed. So you should either follow the maintenance interval in the owner's manual or get an oil analysis.   How do keep from burning your hands btw? I can't crawl under my van until it cools down a bit to change my oil.
#4451 of 4694 Flushing engines and gearboxes by tsotsi Dec 05, 2008 (5:12 pm)
It's too bad there is not more research on helping high-mileage cars reach even higher mileages. One school of thought about flushing is that after many years and miles there is a lot of crud built up on internal parts, in places where there isn't any kind of natural cleaning action. The result is that if you flush an engine or gearbox you had better flush it really well because the first result of a violent flush is that some of that crud will be washed into suspension where it will do real damage. So, if you are going to flush, make sure you keep flushing until all the crud you have knocked into suspension is truly gone from the inside. Anybody who has worked on old cars knows that even with flushing, a lot of nasty stuff will still be stuck inside the engine and transmission until they are taken apart and really cleaned.   My own idea -- not proven by any actual research (so take it with a grain of salt) -- is that it is better to just change the oil and let the crud rest in peace . . . where it isn't doing any damage. The only exceptions may be engines that are prone to sludge build-up.
#4452 of 4694 Shifter console light toyota highlander by Canadian_Husky Dec 09, 2008 (10:21 am)
The small light for the shifter is on and off regularly. I wanting to access under the plastic cover. Any suggestion how to remove console?
#4453 of 4694 Ooops - gas cap off during car wash! by budh Dec 09, 2008 (11:14 pm)
I filled my tank yesterday evening in my 153,000 mile 2002 Highlander Limited AWD V6. Then went through an automatic car wash before driving five miles home. When I got out of the Highlander I saw the gas cap was off and was off during the car wash!   No issue with my five mile drive home.   What would you do to make sure it keeps running right after this error?   And now that I have reinstalled the gas cap properly, can I prevent the check engine light from coming on?   (I live in a fairly cold climate near the Indiana/Michigan state line.)   Bud H Replies to this message: electricdesign (Dec 10, 2008 7:28 am) herzogtum71 (Dec 10, 2008 4:43 pm)
#4454 of 4694 Re: Ooops - gas cap off during car wash! [budh] by electricdesign Dec 10, 2008 (7:28 am)
Replying to: budh (Dec 09, 2008 11:14 pm) It depends on how much water got into the gas tank. You can add some gas tank additives that claim to dry the moisture out of the gas, but they only work for very small amounts of water, like condensation. You did not notice any problen yet because the gas floats on top of the water, the water rolls around on the bottom of the tank, it moves due to the motion of the car, until it happens to get sucked up by the pickup tube. You don't know how much is in there, but it is best to get it out, the most sure way is to have the gas tank removed and drained.
#4455 of 4694 Changing anti-freeze by mikefm58 Dec 10, 2008 (7:28 am)
I've got an 04 Highalnder with 41K miles, not much in the owners manual on when it's recommended to change the anti-freeze. What are the opinions here on when it should be changed? Also, is it as easy as simply draining what's in the radiator by loosening the drain plug? My old Honda CRV also had a large bolt on the engine block to remove that would drain whatever was still in the engine block. Are Toyotas like that as well? Replies to this message: lmacmil (Dec 14, 2008 9:31 am) mikefm58 (Dec 14, 2008 12:11 pm)
#4456 of 4694 Re: Ooops - gas cap off during car wash! [budh] by herzogtum71 Dec 10, 2008 (4:43 pm)
Replying to: budh (Dec 09, 2008 11:14 pm) On my '04 there is a little spring-release flap underneath the gas cap that is always closed unless it is depressed by the nozzle at the gas station. I suspect your '02 is the same. If so, there is little chance that enough water got into the tank to do damage.
#4457 of 4694 Re: Changing anti-freeze [mikefm58] by lmacmil Dec 14, 2008 (9:31 am)
Replying to: mikefm58 (Dec 10, 2008 7:28 am) Here's what the manual says for a 2004 Highlander coolant:   Initial replacement at 100,000 miles/120 months. Replace every 50,000 miles/60 months thereafter. Refer to "Engine Coolant" in the "Explanation of Maintenance Items" section in the back of this guide for more information.   Pretty amazing if you remember the "good old days" when you changed coolant every couple of years. Replies to this message: mikefm58 (Dec 14, 2008 12:11 pm)

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