- #4445 of 4693
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Re: Leaking engine seal [steve_]
by electricdesign
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Nov 30, 2008 (8:12 am)
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Replying to: steve_ (Nov 24, 2008 3:36 pm)
I think that doing a drain and fill once a year would probably be as good as a flush and fill every 60k, since the average driver drives about 15k per year and the 60k flush would occur about every 4 years. At 60k the fluid will be darker, but not dirty. The light color of the new fluid is a noticable big difference when flushing. I think waiting until the fluid is dirty is too long to wait, because the damage would aready be done. The "damage" I speak of is hardening and deterioration of the seals (innner and outer), and mechanical wear on the friction linings, gears and bushings.
The secret to making a transmission last a long time is to keep it COOL and to keep it CLEAN.
E.D.
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- #4446 of 4693
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Re: Leaking engine seal [electricdesign]
by steve_ HOST
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Nov 30, 2008 (10:17 pm)
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Replying to: electricdesign (Nov 30, 2008 8:12 am)
I guess you need to define long time too. My minivan had a partial fluid change about six months ago and it's 10 years old and has 129,000 miles on it. Normal service and never towed.
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- #4447 of 4693
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Re: Leaking engine seal [steve_]
by electricdesign
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Dec 04, 2008 (7:43 pm)
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Replying to: steve_ (Nov 30, 2008 10:17 pm)
A long time is a relative term, the most important thing is to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Sometimes there are exceptions though. All engines and transmissions are not created equal, and some have good service historys and some have bad service historys. I bought my Toyota because of their record of good service history and high reliabilty. Some transmissions, like the early model Explorers with A4LD automatic trannsmission were very problematic, I had a 91 and a 93 and had to replace the transmisions in both of them. Those particular transmissions would contaminate themselves, and if the contamination was left in the tranny for long it would cause the tranny to fail, so those trannys got a complete flush and filter change every year, just to try to keep them alive. I later owned 97 and 2000 V8 Explorers with the 4R70W transmissions which were very reliable and trouble free. I flushed those trannys every 60K. Todays trannys have gotten better, and also the fluids have gotten better. The fluid will get dark over time and miles due to normal wear and tear, some lining wear, and heat. The manufacturer's recommendations are good enough to go by unless there is a problem or reason to do otherwise. It is always a good thing to check the tranny fluid level regularly and at the same time observe the color and notice the smell of the fluid. Fluid that appears dark or smells burnt should be investigated. A burnt smell usually means trouble. Do not let the radiator run hot, as it will cause the tranny to run hot, and damage it also. I think nowadays that every 60K is a good rule of thumb mileage to do a trannny service, to maintain good clean fluid and tranny health. Some trannys could probably go a long time without servicing them, but I feel more comfortable taking care of mine regularly. I also believe it contributes to longer life of the seals and longer life of the transmission. This is important to me because I usually buy my cars with 100,000 miles on them and drive them for 6 years or until they get about 200,000 miles on them. So I strive for long life and reliablity. Fluid that looks dirty actually has microscopic particles floating in it, and I don't like microscopic particles rubbing on my bushings and seals, possibly wearing them out sooner. So that's my humble opinion on tranny flushes, changes and service time intervals.
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- #4448 of 4693
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Re: Leaking engine seal [electricdesign]
by steve_ HOST
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Dec 04, 2008 (8:22 pm)
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Replying to: electricdesign (Dec 04, 2008 7:43 pm)
It's interesting (to me anyway) that you can't tell much of anything by looking at or smelling engine oil, but it's a pretty good way to inspect transmission fluid.
Hey, you should buy my Quest - great VQ drivetrain and it meets your mileage criteria. 
Ok, back to Highlanders.
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- #4449 of 4693
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Re: Leaking engine seal [steve_]
by wwest
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Dec 05, 2008 (10:32 am)
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Replying to: steve_ (Dec 04, 2008 8:22 pm)
Why do you say "looking" at engine oil isn't a good way to tell if it needs to be changed..??
Engine lubricating oil is EXPECTED to become dirty due to byproducts of the combustion process getting past the piston rings and valve seals. Engine oil is formulated to hold these particles in suspension whereas ATF is formulated otherwise. Absent the ATF having been overheated, drop the sump pan on your transmission and you will undoubtedly find a layer of debris from the wear of the frictional clutch surfaces, but a reasonably clean and clear ATF.
I always run my engines long enough to get up to normal operating temperature just before draining the engine oil. That way I drain off most of the contamination that might otherwise have settled to the bottom of the sump.
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- #4450 of 4693
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Re: Leaking engine seal [wwest]
by steve_ HOST
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Dec 05, 2008 (10:38 am)
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Replying to: wwest (Dec 05, 2008 10:32 am)
Right, it's supposed to get dirty with everything held in suspension or trapped by the filter, unlike transmission fluid. You can't tell by looking at your oil if it needs to be changed. So you should either follow the maintenance interval in the owner's manual or get an oil analysis.
How do keep from burning your hands btw? I can't crawl under my van until it cools down a bit to change my oil.
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- #4451 of 4693
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Flushing engines and gearboxes
by tsotsi
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Dec 05, 2008 (5:12 pm)
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It's too bad there is not more research on helping high-mileage cars reach even higher mileages. One school of thought about flushing is that after many years and miles there is a lot of crud built up on internal parts, in places where there isn't any kind of natural cleaning action. The result is that if you flush an engine or gearbox you had better flush it really well because the first result of a violent flush is that some of that crud will be washed into suspension where it will do real damage. So, if you are going to flush, make sure you keep flushing until all the crud you have knocked into suspension is truly gone from the inside. Anybody who has worked on old cars knows that even with flushing, a lot of nasty stuff will still be stuck inside the engine and transmission until they are taken apart and really cleaned.
My own idea -- not proven by any actual research (so take it with a grain of salt) -- is that it is better to just change the oil and let the crud rest in peace . . . where it isn't doing any damage. The only exceptions may be engines that are prone to sludge build-up.
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- #4452 of 4693
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Shifter console light toyota highlander
by Canadian_Husky
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Dec 09, 2008 (10:21 am)
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The small light for the shifter is on and off regularly. I wanting to access under the plastic cover. Any suggestion how to remove console?
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- #4453 of 4693
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Ooops - gas cap off during car wash!
by budh
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Dec 09, 2008 (11:14 pm)
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I filled my tank yesterday evening in my 153,000 mile 2002 Highlander Limited AWD V6. Then went through an automatic car wash before driving five miles home. When I got out of the Highlander I saw the gas cap was off and was off during the car wash!
No issue with my five mile drive home.
What would you do to make sure it keeps running right after this error?
And now that I have reinstalled the gas cap properly, can I prevent the check engine light from coming on?
(I live in a fairly cold climate near the Indiana/Michigan state line.)
Bud H
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- #4454 of 4693
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Re: Ooops - gas cap off during car wash! [budh]
by electricdesign
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Dec 10, 2008 (7:28 am)
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Replying to: budh (Dec 09, 2008 11:14 pm)
It depends on how much water got into the gas tank. You can add some gas tank additives that claim to dry the moisture out of the gas, but they only work for very small amounts of water, like condensation. You did not notice any problen yet because the gas floats on top of the water, the water rolls around on the bottom of the tank, it moves due to the motion of the car, until it happens to get sucked up by the pickup tube. You don't know how much is in there, but it is best to get it out, the most sure way is to have the gas tank removed and drained.
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