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SUVs Toyota Highlander Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair
4694 messages, Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 7:16 AM
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Replying to: wwest (Nov 10, 2008 10:07 am)
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Replying to: mtairyordge (Nov 18, 2008 9:51 am)
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Replying to: herzogtum71 (Nov 16, 2008 2:32 pm) A friend with a PRISTINE garage floor got his '95 LS back from the same dealer with a leaking rear engine seal after an oil/filter change. $1100 later and all they would do was offer a free oil change.
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Replying to: wwest (Nov 18, 2008 10:20 am) 1) What the clockspring does? 2) How does it work? 3) What is its purpose, as it relates to the SRS system, or any other system? Any hints.....
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Replying to: irishcasey (Oct 31, 2008 12:25 pm) |
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Replying to: mtairyordge (Nov 18, 2008 10:34 am)
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Replying to: wwest (Dec 14, 2007 10:17 am) In your experience is there another possible source of the intermittent message. Also, if the message comes up should it leave a code in the diagnostic computer. In what cases would a code not be saved? The message is "Check SRS Airbag System Have your vehicle checked by a dealer immediately"
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Replying to: mpolan (Nov 07, 2008 6:07 am) Regarding that aluminum engine mounting bracket right on top of the water pump, I removed the single bolt along the frame right in front of it holding a PS hose to the frame. After removing that, the bracket just slides off. No removing the studs nor jacking up the motor. A few things make this difficult ..... no room to work. My hands were sore, scraped and cut for days. The alternator bolts were VERY difficult to get to even for normal belt replacement After removing the bolts, getting the upper belt cover out/ back in properly was difficult. Glad I still have an electric impact wrench. rated at 340 ft lbs. Still had to stay on the crank bolt for about 5 minutes before it would budge. I don't know HOW I would have removed it if I didn't have an impact wrench. As already stated, not a job for the feign of heart. Too easy to strip a bolt head of worse if one is not careful. Mikey ( name sounds young but I remember servicing engines before PCV systems ... breather pipes .. and it was an 'old' motor at 60K let alone 100+K today )
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Replying to: wwest (Nov 18, 2008 10:26 am) What irks me is that I've changed the oil every 3,000 miles, first with the dealer and then with Jiffy Lube. I had everything done that was "recommended", as I had decided it was better to play it safe. Now I find it was all for nothing (well, I guess it could always be worse) since I still will have to pay what I'm sure will be upward of $2,000. Of course, I have to take the mechanic's word for it. Unless I take the engine apart for myself and have a look (which is outside of my capabilities), I'll never know for sure.
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Replying to: rmb26 (Nov 19, 2008 7:02 am) The problem is the TYPE of engine oil that was used. If you want to keep the GUNK out of your engine, you need to use a top quality full synthetic motor oil, such as Mobil One or Valvoline or other top graded oil, AND a top quality synthetic motor oil filter, such as Mobil One or the Purolator Pure One. My 04 V6 FWD HL has over 110,000 GUNK free miles on it, and I only change oil and filter every 7,500 miles using either Mobile One or Valvoline full synthetic motor oils and Pure One motor oil filter. It always runs like brand new and doesn't leak a drop of anything. Also important to remember: Every 60,000 miles to Flush and change the Automatic Transmission fluid and to Flush and change the Brake Fluid. This will keep the GUNK out of these systems also. E.D. in Sunny Florida
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