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SUVs Toyota Highlander Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair
4699 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 1:00 PM
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Replying to: typesix (Oct 14, 2008 9:14 am) |
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| I have always had the engine air filter checked/replaced by the service dept. But for the life of me when I look under the hood I can not find where the engine air filter is located. There is no way that it is behind the radiator. I do know how to change the cabin air filter. the owners manual does not show or tell me how to change the engine air filter. So can anyone please tell me or even supply a photo of where it is in the engine compartment? thank you. | |
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| I u/s the timing belt should be replaced around 90K. I have a V6 AWD w/ about 93K. I wondering if someone can tell me what I could expect to pay to have the timing belt replaced and are there other belts that are included in this. AND is there anything else that should be done at the same time as the timing belt because of convenience, for example the water pump. Any help would be much appreciated. | |
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Replying to: electricdesign (Jun 26, 2008 6:57 pm) I second the point about needing the right tools and experience, it's not a job for the faint hearted or inexperienced. I found I needed a number of different lengths of sockets - not just extensions, and I needed to use my wobblers to get at a few of the tougher bolts. I have a couple of tips to add: My haynes manual said to remove the steering pump. I found this too difficult - too hard to get at all the bolts through the pulley with the engine in the car. Instead I found I could move the bracket that tightens the belt to get it out of the way of the various bolts I needed to reach - the ones on the timing belt cover, and the belt tensioner. Bit of a fiddle to get the tensioner out with it there, but it did come out. For that annoying aluminum bracket bolted and held with studs onto the block, the one in the way of the timing belt. I didn't have to remove the studs to get it off (I didn't have that stud remover, what is that E.D.?). I found that by jacking up the engine from the pan, then using my body weight on the chassis, the engine would move up slightly. This gave just enough room around the frame to slip the bracket off the studs. Whew! Replacement is the reverse of disassembly  . Mike |
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I have had my HLmtd since Memeorial Day. This past week is the first time that the SRS warning light and message has been coming on while driving. At first I was able to get it to not stay on by restraing the car. I guess the 'hard boot' worked for about 2 days. Now that soes not seem to do the trick. My search on the internet and other boards has uncovered this issue with past years Highlanders and past years other Toyos. So far the local service managers have not been helpful, I have an appointment on Tuesday, telling me anything about this. Can anyone shed some light on this for me. Thanks 
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Replying to: mpolan (Nov 07, 2008 6:07 am) The studs that hold that annoying aluminum bracket on are equally annoying. Picture #08120 shows the end of a still installed stud, and you can see the end of the stud is not plain, but has a male TORX head on it. Picture #08125 shows two studs removed, so that you can see the whole stud with the male TORX head end. Pictures #08121, 08122 & 08123 show me loosing the studs with a TORX socket on the end of a 1/4 inch drive breaker bar. Those things were very tight! I can't remember the TORX socket size I used, but if you have a set of them, you will have the one that you need. The studs are only turned enough until they are loose, and left in the bracket, because there is not enough room for them to slide out of the bracket. Once all of them are loose, you can then lift the bracket out with the studs in the bracket, as in photo #'s 08124 & 08126. These studs and their threads are subject to a lot of corrosion, so when I put them back in, I coated the studs with a liberal coating of never seize compound. Reference messege # 4335 for information on how to access the photos. E.D.
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Replying to: mtairyordge (Nov 08, 2008 8:16 am)
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I was told by a mechanic that my 2002 2x4 V6 highlander is leaking oil via the main seal in the back of the engine. Another mechanic told me it would cost between $1600 and $1800 to fix because he has to remove the transmission and engine to get to it (about 18 hrs of labor). I called the dealer nearby and was told that the part was only about $80 but that the labor involved in removing the engine and transmission was about $2200 - $2400. I read a post that indicated that this leak can be caused by putting in too much oil. HAs anyone heard this? the reason I ask is because I took it to Jiffy Lube in late August. Shortly after that, the check engine light went on. It cost me about $190 to find out it was a loose hose, which probably occured at Jiffy Lube. If this new problem is due to overfilling it with oil, I may need to look elsewhere for my regular maintenance.
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Replying to: electricdesign (Nov 09, 2008 5:30 pm) I'm not sure you understood my tip - there's no need to loosen or remove the power steering pump at all, as long as you don't mind pushing it up and down on the belt adjuster to get it out of the way a few times. I used a piece of metal tube and a hammer. Only the adjustment bracket need be removed. Same with the aluminum bracket - there's no need to remove the studs from the block, it's possible to slip the bracket off the studs by pushing up on the engine/down on the chassis - there's just enough room. Of course it's important to remember to fit the bolts beforehand, they can be a fiddle otherwise! Mike |
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Replying to: electricdesign (Nov 09, 2008 5:30 pm) |
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