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SUVs Toyota Highlander Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair
4696 messages, Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 11:52 AM
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Replying to: patreezia (Oct 13, 2008 3:12 pm) |
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Replying to: patreezia (Oct 13, 2008 3:12 pm) Good Luck, E.D. in Sunny Florida I've got a 2004 HL Limited V6 Auto FWD with 110,000 miles, and it's almost perfect. |
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Replying to: patreezia (Oct 13, 2008 3:12 pm) Someone else explained it best to me. As a car ages, the seals do get "some" leakage. When I looked at my master cylinder, I did see what appeared like seapage around it, yet it was still full of brake fluid. Now, could it start leaking like a crazy? Maybe. But I wasn't about to sink a grand or more in to the vehicle. The others here have given good advice. Just check these fluids once or twice a week and fill as needed. I'd bet you won't put hardly anything at all in. Also if you park in a garage, put some card board under where you park and check this for any drips. And don't waste your time trying to get Toyota to ante up. The O2 sensor went on my son's Tacoma when it was 3K miles and one month off of warranty and they wouldn't help. They just referred it to the dealer who wouldn't return my calls. I currently have four Toyotas in my household and will NEVER own another one. Between the quality issues I've seen and the arrogant dealers being a royal pain in my arse, they can go pound salt before I buy another one.
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Replying to: mikefm58 (Oct 14, 2008 5:57 am)
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Replying to: typesix (Oct 14, 2008 9:14 am) |
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| I have always had the engine air filter checked/replaced by the service dept. But for the life of me when I look under the hood I can not find where the engine air filter is located. There is no way that it is behind the radiator. I do know how to change the cabin air filter. the owners manual does not show or tell me how to change the engine air filter. So can anyone please tell me or even supply a photo of where it is in the engine compartment? thank you. | |
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| I u/s the timing belt should be replaced around 90K. I have a V6 AWD w/ about 93K. I wondering if someone can tell me what I could expect to pay to have the timing belt replaced and are there other belts that are included in this. AND is there anything else that should be done at the same time as the timing belt because of convenience, for example the water pump. Any help would be much appreciated. | |
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Replying to: electricdesign (Jun 26, 2008 6:57 pm) I second the point about needing the right tools and experience, it's not a job for the faint hearted or inexperienced. I found I needed a number of different lengths of sockets - not just extensions, and I needed to use my wobblers to get at a few of the tougher bolts. I have a couple of tips to add: My haynes manual said to remove the steering pump. I found this too difficult - too hard to get at all the bolts through the pulley with the engine in the car. Instead I found I could move the bracket that tightens the belt to get it out of the way of the various bolts I needed to reach - the ones on the timing belt cover, and the belt tensioner. Bit of a fiddle to get the tensioner out with it there, but it did come out. For that annoying aluminum bracket bolted and held with studs onto the block, the one in the way of the timing belt. I didn't have to remove the studs to get it off (I didn't have that stud remover, what is that E.D.?). I found that by jacking up the engine from the pan, then using my body weight on the chassis, the engine would move up slightly. This gave just enough room around the frame to slip the bracket off the studs. Whew! Replacement is the reverse of disassembly  . Mike |
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I have had my HLmtd since Memeorial Day. This past week is the first time that the SRS warning light and message has been coming on while driving. At first I was able to get it to not stay on by restraing the car. I guess the 'hard boot' worked for about 2 days. Now that soes not seem to do the trick. My search on the internet and other boards has uncovered this issue with past years Highlanders and past years other Toyos. So far the local service managers have not been helpful, I have an appointment on Tuesday, telling me anything about this. Can anyone shed some light on this for me. Thanks 
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Replying to: mpolan (Nov 07, 2008 6:07 am) The studs that hold that annoying aluminum bracket on are equally annoying. Picture #08120 shows the end of a still installed stud, and you can see the end of the stud is not plain, but has a male TORX head on it. Picture #08125 shows two studs removed, so that you can see the whole stud with the male TORX head end. Pictures #08121, 08122 & 08123 show me loosing the studs with a TORX socket on the end of a 1/4 inch drive breaker bar. Those things were very tight! I can't remember the TORX socket size I used, but if you have a set of them, you will have the one that you need. The studs are only turned enough until they are loose, and left in the bracket, because there is not enough room for them to slide out of the bracket. Once all of them are loose, you can then lift the bracket out with the studs in the bracket, as in photo #'s 08124 & 08126. These studs and their threads are subject to a lot of corrosion, so when I put them back in, I coated the studs with a liberal coating of never seize compound. Reference messege # 4335 for information on how to access the photos. E.D.
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