- #4400 of 4696
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Re: BAD ODOR [ohmygosh]
by webgood
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Oct 06, 2008 (4:42 pm)
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Replying to: ohmygosh (Oct 06, 2008 10:11 am)
Have you (or the dealer) checked the cabin filter behind the glove box? Also, I'm not sure if this applies to the HL, are there drain tubes from the condenser coils that might be plugged? FYI-Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol in a spray bottle makes a great sanitizer/deodorizer. The alcohol kills bacteria that makes the odor and while not everybody cares for the alcohol odor, it dissipates pretty quickly. You can turn on any ventilation blower and mist the spray into the intakes where it'll get sucked in. Works great on the insides of shoes/boots/sneakers.
Also check under your front floor carpet for dampness/odor.
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- #4401 of 4696
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Re: BAD ODOR [ohmygosh]
by wwest
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Oct 07, 2008 (5:41 am)
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Replying to: ohmygosh (Oct 06, 2008 10:11 am)
Google for:
wwest EED odor gym
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- #4402 of 4696
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Rear Disc Brakes on 2006 Highlander
by bluenose2
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Oct 07, 2008 (10:09 am)
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I have a 2006 HL AWD Limited with 64k kilometers (40K miles) on it. The Dealer tells me the rear brake pads are shot and the rotors are "too rusty" to be turned. This sounds ridiculous. I have never replaced pads front or rear on any other vehicle before well over 100K km, as I am very easy on the brakes and most of my driving is highway miles. Why would rear pads be worn out before front?
A possible related problem I have had since new is that something locks up (I believe it is the rear brakes) when I leave the vehicle unattended for a week or more -usually in an airport parking lot) and it takes a lot of effort to get the vehicle to move, accompanied by a loud snap). The Dealer said I had a caliper seized - but since new?? Perhaps this has worn down the rear brakes? Appreciate any comments.
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- #4403 of 4696
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Re: Rear Disc Brakes on 2006 Highlander [bluenose2]
by lmacmil
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Oct 07, 2008 (3:15 pm)
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Replying to: bluenose2 (Oct 07, 2008 10:09 am)
It is virtually impossible on a correctly functioning brake system for the rear pads to wear out sooner than the front. And turning rotors is based on thickness not the amount of rust. I would look for another dealer or independent shop for a 2nd opinion.
It is possible for the linings to "stick" to the rotor if left unattended but I would expect it to take more than a week and would also expect them to break free fairly easily. Not sure what this could be. Are you setting the parking brake? If the caliper seized, you probably couldn't apply the brake, it wouldn't typically seize in the applied position. But if the caliper piston is stuck in the applied position, this could explain the pad wear.
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- #4404 of 4696
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How to open air filter compartment of 2008 HL
by alexol25
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Oct 07, 2008 (9:59 pm)
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I seemed to have stupid problem which I could not figure out. In 2008 HL air filter compartment is not closed using simple clips which I used to see in other cars, but 2 bolts. I was trying to unscrew them, but every possible force I was applying to them had no effect, so I started to think may be I just do not understand how it should be opened.
Could anyone advise please?
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- #4405 of 4696
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Re: Rear Disc Brakes on 2006 Highlander [lmacmil]
by bluenose2
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Oct 08, 2008 (12:59 pm)
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Replying to: lmacmil (Oct 07, 2008 3:15 pm)
Thanks, that is helpful. I intend to take it to another shop. I do not set the parking brake when left unattended. I think you are right that the stuck piston is what is responsible for the premature wear on the pads.
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- #4406 of 4696
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Re: Transmission Leak Update [ft20]
by patreezia
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Oct 13, 2008 (3:12 pm)
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Replying to: ft20 (Jan 20, 2008 4:05 pm)
I know this thread is from several months ago,but if you're still reading it,I want to say that I am having similar problems with Toyota's unresponsiveness. I have a 2002 Highlander,V6 AWD,purchased new 6.5 years ago,which just turned over to 62K miles. Although the car is performing well,I am told it is leaking transmission fluid AND also slowly leaking P/S fluid,requiring a torque seal replacement,a new P/S pump,plus an alignment. The total cost for all this is over $2300! I had done every maintenance,lube,etc. on time,with the Toyota service people;the car had never been driven off-road or been in an accident,etc. I am really disappointed,because I had bought the big story that Toyotas are such solid,reliable cars.I've never had any car that just fell apart this way,when still at such low miles. I asked Toyota to assist with these repair charges,and they basically replied, "Awwwww....too bad. But we won't help you." Now I plan to write a letter to Jim Lentz's office,but doubt it will do any good,since the regional mgr.has already said no help is forthcoming. Their position is that I'm out of warranty,so it's my bad luck. I've told them that I had originally been so excited to be buying a Toyota because of its great reputation for being well-made,and believed that a well-cared-for Toyota would last a good many years without major problems. I guess this is my first AND last Toyota. Does anyone out there have any suggestions? 
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- #4407 of 4696
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Re: Transmission Leak Update [patreezia]
by wwest
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Oct 13, 2008 (5:32 pm)
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Replying to: patreezia (Oct 13, 2008 3:12 pm)
You can buy, and refill, a lot of ATF and PS fluid for even 10% of that $2300 invoice.
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- #4408 of 4696
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Re: Transmission Leak Update [patreezia]
by electricdesign
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Oct 13, 2008 (5:57 pm)
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Replying to: patreezia (Oct 13, 2008 3:12 pm)
Next time buy a FWD instead of an AWD. That may help with the transmission leak problem. You said you were "told" that the fluids were leaking? They must not be too bad if you didn't see it yourself. Look for signs of leakage where you park your car. Add fluids as needed for now. If the leaks get severe, then consider repairs. You said you were also "told" you needed an alignment? How good or bad is your steering or does it drive OK? Is the steering wheel straight? Does it pull left or right? How are the tires wearing. Any excessive tire wear on the inside, outside or tire tread feathering? I would not believe what I was told without strong evidence to substantiate such repairs.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
I've got a 2004 HL Limited V6 Auto FWD with 110,000 miles, and it's almost perfect.
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- #4409 of 4696
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Re: Transmission Leak Update [patreezia]
by mikefm58
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Oct 14, 2008 (5:57 am)
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Replying to: patreezia (Oct 13, 2008 3:12 pm)
I too was "told" by my Honda dealer that my '99 CRV with 135K miles was leaking anit-freeze, brake fluid from the master cylinder, and oil from the valve cover gasket. Yet when I check these fluids, which I have done religiously since owning it, I've NEVER had to put any of those fluids in and also have never seen any of those fluids in my drive way.
Someone else explained it best to me. As a car ages, the seals do get "some" leakage. When I looked at my master cylinder, I did see what appeared like seapage around it, yet it was still full of brake fluid. Now, could it start leaking like a crazy? Maybe. But I wasn't about to sink a grand or more in to the vehicle.
The others here have given good advice. Just check these fluids once or twice a week and fill as needed. I'd bet you won't put hardly anything at all in. Also if you park in a garage, put some card board under where you park and check this for any drips.
And don't waste your time trying to get Toyota to ante up. The O2 sensor went on my son's Tacoma when it was 3K miles and one month off of warranty and they wouldn't help. They just referred it to the dealer who wouldn't return my calls. I currently have four Toyotas in my household and will NEVER own another one. Between the quality issues I've seen and the arrogant dealers being a royal pain in my arse, they can go pound salt before I buy another one.
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