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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

4699 messages,  Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 1:00 PM

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#4396 of 4699 Re: 2008 HL AWD 5k engine oil [lmacmil] by mdhutton Sep 26, 2008 (9:22 pm)
Replying to: lmacmil (Sep 26, 2008 6:54 am) I'm going to disagree with lmacmil on this one.   My '08 HL had the same message appear at almost the exact same mileage, and I'm just guessing that the likelihood of me having the same # of starts, time the engine is on, and average coolant temperature as jilin74 is pretty low.   The message is simply a reminder that you're approaching a manufacturer's recommended service interval. My dealer charged $24.95 for the oil/filter change and $12.00 for the tire rotation (also recommended 5K). Together, that's about what I would have paid for just the oil/filter change at the local oil joint (a.k.a. high school auto shop). I feel better knowing the work was done by factory-trained people, that Toyota has a record of all work performed, and the price is well within reason. Replies to this message: lmacmil (Sep 27, 2008 5:02 am)
#4397 of 4699 Re: 2008 HL AWD 5k engine oil [mdhutton] by lmacmil Sep 27, 2008 (5:02 am)
Replying to: mdhutton (Sep 26, 2008 9:22 pm) You are probably right. It does come on too consistently to be connected to anything other than the odometer. I stand corrected.   On my Olds Intrigue, there was an algorithm involved because it came on much sooner in the winter (more cold starts, lower engine temps, etc.) than it did in the summer.
#4398 of 4699 Need help on changing wiper blades by jackmick656 Oct 04, 2008 (9:25 am)
I am trying to change wiper blades on my 2003 HL but the old blades won't budge. Can anyone please give me a tip on how to remove the original wiper blades. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks.
#4399 of 4699 BAD ODOR by ohmygosh Oct 06, 2008 (10:11 am)
I have a 2004 Toyota Highlander that I keep in pristine condition, however, it has developed a nasty mildew smell over the last 6 months that I could not correct. Finally, I took it into the dealer and they told me that my sun roof drains were clogged and that is what probably caused this condition. They cleaned them out and deodorized/sanitized the ventilation system. It cost me $160 for this service and the smell still has not discipated. Any feedback on this issue would be appreciated. Replies to this message: webgood (Oct 06, 2008 4:42 pm) wwest (Oct 07, 2008 5:41 am)
#4400 of 4699 Re: BAD ODOR [ohmygosh] by webgood Oct 06, 2008 (4:42 pm)
Replying to: ohmygosh (Oct 06, 2008 10:11 am) Have you (or the dealer) checked the cabin filter behind the glove box? Also, I'm not sure if this applies to the HL, are there drain tubes from the condenser coils that might be plugged? FYI-Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol in a spray bottle makes a great sanitizer/deodorizer. The alcohol kills bacteria that makes the odor and while not everybody cares for the alcohol odor, it dissipates pretty quickly. You can turn on any ventilation blower and mist the spray into the intakes where it'll get sucked in. Works great on the insides of shoes/boots/sneakers. Also check under your front floor carpet for dampness/odor.
#4401 of 4699 Re: BAD ODOR [ohmygosh] by wwest Oct 07, 2008 (5:41 am)
Replying to: ohmygosh (Oct 06, 2008 10:11 am) Google for:   wwest EED odor gym
#4402 of 4699 Rear Disc Brakes on 2006 Highlander by bluenose2 Oct 07, 2008 (10:09 am)
I have a 2006 HL AWD Limited with 64k kilometers (40K miles) on it. The Dealer tells me the rear brake pads are shot and the rotors are "too rusty" to be turned. This sounds ridiculous. I have never replaced pads front or rear on any other vehicle before well over 100K km, as I am very easy on the brakes and most of my driving is highway miles. Why would rear pads be worn out before front? A possible related problem I have had since new is that something locks up (I believe it is the rear brakes) when I leave the vehicle unattended for a week or more -usually in an airport parking lot) and it takes a lot of effort to get the vehicle to move, accompanied by a loud snap). The Dealer said I had a caliper seized - but since new?? Perhaps this has worn down the rear brakes? Appreciate any comments. Replies to this message: lmacmil (Oct 07, 2008 3:15 pm) bluenose2 (Oct 08, 2008 12:59 pm)
#4403 of 4699 Re: Rear Disc Brakes on 2006 Highlander [bluenose2] by lmacmil Oct 07, 2008 (3:15 pm)
Replying to: bluenose2 (Oct 07, 2008 10:09 am) It is virtually impossible on a correctly functioning brake system for the rear pads to wear out sooner than the front. And turning rotors is based on thickness not the amount of rust. I would look for another dealer or independent shop for a 2nd opinion.   It is possible for the linings to "stick" to the rotor if left unattended but I would expect it to take more than a week and would also expect them to break free fairly easily. Not sure what this could be. Are you setting the parking brake? If the caliper seized, you probably couldn't apply the brake, it wouldn't typically seize in the applied position. But if the caliper piston is stuck in the applied position, this could explain the pad wear. Replies to this message: bluenose2 (Oct 08, 2008 12:59 pm)
#4404 of 4699 How to open air filter compartment of 2008 HL by alexol25 Oct 07, 2008 (9:59 pm)
I seemed to have stupid problem which I could not figure out. In 2008 HL air filter compartment is not closed using simple clips which I used to see in other cars, but 2 bolts. I was trying to unscrew them, but every possible force I was applying to them had no effect, so I started to think may be I just do not understand how it should be opened.   Could anyone advise please?
#4405 of 4699 Re: Rear Disc Brakes on 2006 Highlander [lmacmil] by bluenose2 Oct 08, 2008 (12:59 pm)
Replying to: lmacmil (Oct 07, 2008 3:15 pm) Thanks, that is helpful. I intend to take it to another shop. I do not set the parking brake when left unattended. I think you are right that the stuck piston is what is responsible for the premature wear on the pads.

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