Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
SUVs Toyota Highlander Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair
4692 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:26 PM
You are in the Toyota Highlander Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
|
|
|---|---|
|
Hi everyone, Been so long since I was on here last, testament to how good our Highlander has been to us. However......brakes have been an issue and now the ABS is acting up. Very occasionally, when coming to a medium gentle stop, the ABS will kick in when there is absolutely no need. I checked all mechanical brake parts and all OK. Checked tyre pressures and did a small correction. There are no warning lights at all. If you have enough speed left, a quick lift off the brake and back on again will clear the fault. Otherwise, braking is as normal, soft and lazy unless you activate the brake assist, then it stands on its nose  Any ideas ?
|
|
|
Replying to: jrfiero (Jul 27, 2008 6:10 am) Recap - Check Engine Light on, codes P1130 and P1135, best bet new Bank1 Sensor 1 required. The rear (Bank1) O2 sensor and its connector are easy to see and reach from under the car. BUT, you can only reach the connector with one hand - IMHO it takes two hands to disconnect. Maybe there's a trick or a special tool. I practiced on the front (Bank2) connector and that wasn't easy with two hands. You can also reach the Bank1 connector from above the engine, but again with only one hand. Two people made it a quick job, pressing the connector latch from above and removing the male end from below. For the inexperienced, O2 sensors are in the exhaust manifolds, which heat up quickly and cool down slowly. Plan on leaving the car for a couple hours to cool after it is driven last. I bought the new sensor from RockAuto.com, genuine Denso replacement with connector, $144 shipped to VA. You can get a 22mm open end wrench on the rear O2 sensor, but at a bad angle. With the wires disconnected you can slip a box end wrench over the connector and wire and get a better angle, but it's still not very good, because a nearby exhaust flange gets in the way. I'm using a combination wrench that has a straight handle on the open end, and an angled handle on the box end. A true box end wrench with a dropped end might be perfect. As it was I had very little angle of rotation available, but enough with using both the open end and box end. Once I broke loose the sensor (took a hammer on the wrench), the rear O2 sensor spun right out by hand, as opposed to the front sensor, which became progressively harder to unscrew when I was checking it. As electricdesign said in 4358, if that happens, patiently work the sensor back and forth with penetrating oil. My new sensor came with a packet of antiseize compound, which I applied to the threads sparingly, careful to not get it on the sensor itself. The connector goes back together easily with one hand, since the female part is attached to a stable base, you can just push in the male end. I cleared the codes with a borrowed scanner, and so far, no lights or codes. With the old sensor, cleared codes would reappear within a minute. A relatively simple repair, much cheaper than what people on this forum have reportedly paid. Jonas
|
|
|
Replying to: jrfiero (Aug 01, 2008 5:27 am) |
|
|
Replying to: jrfiero (Aug 01, 2008 5:27 am) A thing or two I forgot to mention. At least in my "Complete: ..." message I didn't say I have a 2001 V6 Ltd. I've read on this list and somewhere else that the V6 HLs have four O2 sensors - I can only find three - two precat (Bank1 and Bank2 Sensor1) and one post-cat right before the muffler. If you look on the various parts websites you'll see numerous O2 sensors which supposedly fit the precat locations. Some have connectors, others (universal fit) have just wires and you have to splice on the Toyota connector - they're much cheaper. Well, I'm cheap but I don't like the idea of having spliced wires on the O2 sensors, right near the exhaust manifolds, so I sprung for a genuine replacement. Toyota calls this sensor an Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) sensor rather than an O2 sensor (not to be confused with an Air Flow or Mass Air Flow sensor, completely different). I suspect an AFR sensor and an O2 sensor are the same thing, in fact there's a previous message that says so. A local parts store told me they're different, and that only a Denso would work correctly, that a Bosch wouldn't work. I'm skeptical of that advice, but I went ahead and bought a Denso anyway. Oh, and if you have the tools, two people and a cool engine, and the sensor comes right out, it's a 15 minute job.
|
|
|
Replying to: jrfiero (Aug 01, 2008 11:58 am) |
|
|
|
|
Bump, No one has ever seen this problem before ? My local dealer has not and rightly said there would be little chance of finding it until it gets worse. BTW, forgot to say its a 2002 V6 limited with 80K miles. It could be a wiring issue, the truck has been crashed heavily twice  Once in the front and another time T boned. I wonder if the wiring going down that side now has an issue. Anyone have full schematics or know where to find them ?
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: quattrohead (Aug 07, 2008 4:20 am) |
|
| I need help to determine location of Oxygen Sensor 1 for Bank 2 (P0141) and Sensor 2 for Bank 2 (P0161). I saw the forum mentioned there are only two sensors but when I opened the hood there are for sensors (two for each sides, driver sides and passenger sides). I believe there are two heater sensors and two oxygen sensors. I requested the dealer to fax me the diagram, it shows three instead of four. | |
|
I just replaced the brake pads on all four wheels of my 2001 V6 Ltd with just over 68K miles. None was down to the squealers, but the fronts were close, less than 3mm. The rears were only slightly less worn. It couldn't be any easier to change the pads on this car. I had a little trouble with the dust boot on one piston not wanting to go back into the caliper with the piston, but other than that it was a cinch. |
|
|
While I was replacing my brake pads, I noticed the boots on both rear shocks/struts are torn and useless. 1) is this a big deal? 2) I suspect its a major operation to replace them, removing the springs and all. Does anyone have any experience with such things? The other thing I noticed while replacing the brake pads is that Nitrile gloves from Home Depot are junk. They tear with the slightest provocation. Nitriles are supposed to be tougher than your basic latex gloves, but these aren't. Buy 'em somewhere else.
|
|
You are here:
Forums
SUVs Toyota Highlander Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2010 Toyota Highlander
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
