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SUVs Toyota Highlander Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair
4835 messages, Last post on Mar 17, 2010 at 10:43 AM
You are in the Toyota Highlander Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
I would like to remove the firewall side V6 spark plugs. It looks as though the intake manifold and throttle assembly must be removed first unless there is a way to tip the engine forward or another approach. Can anyone give a clue?
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I am grateful for those of you who wrote in, describing the potential problem with the Highlander heat control. Today, the heat control knob started to feel loose so I removed the knob and tightened the nut holding the rheostat before the wires got stressed and broke. I also put a drop of Loctite on the threads, hoping it would keep the nut from working loose again. I would like to send a strong message to Toyota that this kind of lousy design and quality control is going to lose them customers. My Highlander is only three years old, with about 27,000 miles -- in other words, just past guarantee. If it hadn't been for this forum I might not have realized how serious a problem the loose knob could turn in to. For those of you who might have the same problem: if your heat control knob suddenly starts feeling shaky, just pull the plastic knob straight off. You will see the flat nut right behind the knob. I wouldn't tighten it too much for fear of breaking something . . . that is why I carefully put a little Loctite on the threads. The nut takes an 11 mm wrench, by the way. Thanks again for this forum and all the useful information on it. |
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Replying to: phrosut (Dec 14, 2007 12:20 pm) I changed the fob battery per one answer to my original post. It's been almost 2 weeks and the car hasn't "auto-locked" since the battery change. I'll post if it comes back but it's appearing that a weak fob battery was the cause. Thanks all. Phil |
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Has anyone purchased an updated DVD? Do you have to use Toyota's, or can you get them from 3rd party suppliers like Garmin, Tom-Tom or such? Thanks |
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Hello, I have a 2004 2WD 3.3 Highlander with 80K miles on it. Have been very happy, still have original brakes, put new tires on at 72K miles. No problems...until 2 weeks ago as going through a drive through and made a sharp turn got a whinning noise. Fisrt thought low PS fluid but checked and no. Also didn't change pitch with stop to stop steering wheel turn. 2 days later, battery light came on. and car wouldn't start. OK, time for a new battery. Installed new battery, checked for charging, only 12.2volts. Whining still there...suspect Alternator too. Ordered from Toyota,($330) installed (me), everything fine for almost 2 weeks. Yesterday on expressway all idiot lights lit up. Drove to destination about 1 hour. Checked charging, everything looked good. During local driving, idiot lights lites were normal (off) but when I got on the expressway they again came back on. Suspect internal regulator not doing its job and overcharging system? I saw this once before in Nov 2003 at 42K miles, but problem went away. Any alternator/regulator input would be helpful. BTW the bearing in the old Alternator felt "gritty" when spun, was probably the reason the battery took a crap. 
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| My Toyota just started intermitting blowing cold air when my heat is on. Sometimes it will blow hot for sometime and then just go cold and then warm back up again? Any Ideas what the problem could be. | |
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Hi There, I have an 04 Highlander....Underneath the front there is a plastic piece that covers the undercarriage of the car. At some point, I went up onto something and the plastic cracked. It is now interfering with my tire when I take a hard turn. I suppose I should take it to the dealership , but expect to be charged a mint...ideas???thanks |
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Replying to: neldred (Jan 17, 2008 3:27 pm) |
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Replying to: neldred (Jan 17, 2008 3:27 pm) The whole trouble and expense of repairing the problem can be avoided by just tightening that nut, a 5 minute job. Even after reading the postings on this forum I was surprised to find mine was loose. Believe me -- it is worth checking.
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Replying to: brutus_1 (Jan 04, 2008 3:56 pm) About 2 weeks after replacing Alternator and Battery, All my idiot lights would come on when I got on the expressway. All dash lights (MIL malfunction indicator lights) would come on, VSC,tire press, anti skid, brakes lites). But during around town driving, lights would go off. Next day, went to dinner, lites came on during expressway ride. After dinner was driving in parking lot and lites came on, and VSC started locking up brakes, and limiting power to engine?? Pulled ABS fuse, and drove home, took to dealer next day. They diagnosed as a bad stereing wheel position switch ($340 part $300 labor=$700) Talked and confirmed with mechanic, he said definetly is the problem. Had it R&R'd, next day, lights came on again. Took mechanic for drive and showed him problem. He used scan tool, found small metal piece in right wheel ABS pick-up. Problem resolved. 2 weeks no issue. They claim steering position switch was bad. I think I bought a $340 part that I didn't need. Thought I'd share my experience...Still pretty happy with vehicle, only $1000 total in repairs in 80K miles...not bad. Note when ECM gets a fault, all MIL lites come on...
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