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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

4699 messages,  Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 1:00 PM

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#3875 of 4699 Re: Highlander check engine light [toyotagal] by herzogtum71 Jan 11, 2007 (8:53 am)
Replying to: toyotagal (Jan 10, 2007 3:21 pm) That's the advice I read last week in a newspaper car column. Change at 5,000 if you drive that much. Otherwise at least every 6 months. The service department at my dealer has been recommending the 5,000 interval for several years.   My last oil change was done by an independent drive-in place. They still recommend 3,000 but that's just an attempt to drum up business. Since they charge more than the dealer and didn't do everything they said they did (like check tire pressure), I'm going to plan ahead a bit better next time and have the dealer do it.
#3876 of 4699 Transmission - rolling mass by garywi Jan 11, 2007 (9:17 am)
For all you 5 speed V6-2WD owners: do you feel you have to fight to slow down your Highlander? On my Corolla, when I take my foot off the gas, the car goes to a neutral state and slowly decelerates. When I take my foot off the gas in the Highlander, it does not slow down easily. I rented a Hundia Sonata SUV on my last trip. It was a V6. It was soooo much easier to drive than my expensive Highlander. I was not always fighting to slow the thing down. Replies to this message: wwest (Jan 11, 2007 9:57 am)
#3877 of 4699 Re: Transmission - rolling mass [garywi] by wwest Jan 11, 2007 (9:57 am)
Replying to: garywi (Jan 11, 2007 9:17 am) Late in the last century most manufacturers of FWD or front torque biased AWd vehicles adopted a new shift pattern/schedule for their automatic transaxles. The new shift sequence will ALWAYS upshift the transaxle upon a FULL lift-throttle event in order to reduce the potential for loss of directional control due to engine compression braking and/or having it interfere with the ability of the anti-lock system to fully release ALL braking effects.   With a manual shift transaxle the driver can always depress the clutch pedal if a downshift results in too much engine compression braking for roadbed conditions. But with an automatic the only option is to slip the gear shift into neutral and then ...wait... for the transaxle to follow.   Some of the newer owners manuals spell out the fact that NO engine compression braking will be available absent the driver manually downshifting the automatic transaxle and not even then unless the cruise control is off.
#3878 of 4699 Re: Steering wheel clunking [matthew] by matthew Jan 12, 2007 (5:07 am)
Replying to: matthew (Jan 05, 2007 12:07 pm) As promised I am posting my experience at the dealer yesterday. I left the car with them, they called me a couple of hours later to say that they could not find anything wrong (big surprise!). I told them I would go on a drive with the mechanic when I come to pick the car up. Sure enough he heard the sound with a minute or two of driving. They now ordered a new steering column and will install it next week. Replies to this message: toyotagal (Jan 12, 2007 7:36 am) matthew (Jan 17, 2007 11:53 am)
#3879 of 4699 Re: Steering wheel clunking [matthew] by toyotagal Jan 12, 2007 (7:36 am)
Replying to: matthew (Jan 12, 2007 5:07 am) Way to go, Matthew! You know what they say about the squeeky wheel. And we do have to "squeek" from time to time to get someone to pay attention to our concerns.   I just love it when the Dealership often reports back to me that they heard it to but that is just "normal" for that vehicle..................ROFLOL
#3880 of 4699 Rear wiper blade by michaelp1 Jan 13, 2007 (9:40 am)
Hello, 2005 Highlander owner here. The car has been great for two years, 22,000 miles (only had that acceleration issue once, and to be honest it probably saved me since I should not have been accelerating at that point!)   Question on the rear wiper. I had the dealer replace all blades last year as part of regular service and was never really happy with the quality - streaky and squeaky. I just replaced the front driver / passenger with Bosch Excel, and they work great - but I'm stuck on the rear. Can the whole blade body be replaced like the front, or is it just an insert like the older cars I used to have. Is there any way to pull the rear wiper more than an inch from the glass? (I can't imagine why it was designed that way) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.   Mike Replies to this message: desertguy (Jan 13, 2007 12:45 pm)
#3881 of 4699 Re: Rear wiper blade [michaelp1] by desertguy Jan 13, 2007 (12:45 pm)
Replying to: michaelp1 (Jan 13, 2007 9:40 am) This is for a Rav4 but I imagine it will apply to the Highlander as well. Probably more info than you want to know:   http://free-zg.t-com.hr/AlanV/pdf/RearWiperRubber.pdf   There is a plastic cap you remove in order to raise the blade higher.
#3882 of 4699 Engine Noise by beeks5 Jan 15, 2007 (4:42 pm)
I have a '04 HL V6 2WD. It makes a high pitched engine noise, which starts at 70 mph, becomes worst at around 75 mph and goes away at around 80 mph. If I take the foot off the gas pedal at these speeds, it completely goes away, but comes back as soon as I put my foot back on the gas pedal. Anyone know whats wrong with it? Please HELP!!!   Replies to this message: wwest (Jan 16, 2007 9:40 am)
#3883 of 4699 Re: Engine Noise [beeks5] by wwest Jan 16, 2007 (9:40 am)
Replying to: beeks5 (Jan 15, 2007 4:42 pm) Typical description of gearbox or diff'l problem, most likely diff'l.
#3884 of 4699 brake pedal by garywi Jan 16, 2007 (9:51 am)
">Anyone have a problem with the distance between the gas pedal and brake pedal? I measured and it's over 4 inches. My Corolla it's 2.5 inches. I am having some custom alum. pedal covers made to bring the brake pedal over to the right.

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