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Toyota Highlander Maintenance and Repair

4694 messages,  Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 7:16 AM

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#2353 of 4694 by edh Feb 01, 2005 (4:58 pm)
My 2004 v6 Hl I use only regular
#2354 of 4694 Re: Shake, rattle, roll [ammo-one] by roadrunner70 Feb 01, 2005 (5:31 pm)
Replying to: ammo-one (Jan 19, 2005 12:37 pm) i was the one that posted the vibration in idle problem. that was about 40,000 miles ago. the good news, this car has been incredibly reliable. probably the best car we ever had.   the bad news, the vibration was never fixed, and in fact, i have been in 2003 and 2003 rx's that are exactly the same. it is very annoying. i believe its the vacuum controlled engine mount. when the a/c is on, its actually better. also, the vibration has gotten a little worse now.   on the other hand, my 2003 nissan murano has a loose seat which was fixed once, but nissan refuses to fix the second time saying its not bad enough yet. which would you rather have?? tough choice.
#2355 of 4694 Re: starting and idle problems with 2002 [will7] by ecotrklvr Feb 01, 2005 (7:22 pm)
Replying to: will7 (Feb 01, 2005 5:11 am) Hey - I just went to the dealer today about the idle on my 2002 Highlander 4-cylinder. Two weeks ago, it nearly stalled out several times when stopped - very low idle speed. This week, it's at 2000 RPM. Their service man said it was probably the Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV). This device sits on the side of the throttle body, and bleeds air to the engine when the throttle is closed, to keep the idle at the right speed (theoretically). He had an old one in his desk drawer (what a coincidence, I thought). With the engine off, you can see it. Take off the air line feeding the throttle body, and look down into the throttle body; you'll see a small, squarish port just above the closed throttle plate. That's the top port. There's a bottom port, nearly identical, below the throttle plate that you can see when you open the throttle. This device is controlled by the ECU, and cycles between open, halfway open, and closed, depending on the engine temperature, load, etc., according to the wishes of the ECU. Except when it's clogged, or stuck. Mine seems like it's stuck. I suggested a cleaning with Throttle-Body cleaner. He thought that might work. There's only three screws that hold this thing to the throttle body, and I might yet take it off for a scraping, but I'm waiting for the $7 gasket to be in my hand before I try this. So, I'm going to try the on-car cleaning in the morning. Also going to change the PCV Valve (another $8 or so). I'll let y'all know how it goes.   BTW, they want about $350 to replace the ISCV. Replies to this message: will7 (Feb 02, 2005 3:07 pm) ecotrklvr (Feb 02, 2005 5:24 pm)
#2356 of 4694 Re: starting and idle problems with 2002 [ecotrklvr] by will7 Feb 02, 2005 (3:07 pm)
Replying to: ecotrklvr (Feb 01, 2005 7:22 pm) Hi ECO,   Thank you much for the well described episode with your 2002. After reading other info on the Edmunds site, I thought it's possible also to be the ISCV. Please let me know how you make out with doing the cleaning a and placing the gasket and PCV valve. I'll probably try to attempt the same. Also, if you have the part number of the gasket + PCV valve from toyota-- would appreciate it. Replies to this message: ecotrklvr (Feb 02, 2005 5:24 pm)
#2357 of 4694 Re: starting and idle problems with 2002 [will7] by ecotrklvr Feb 02, 2005 (5:24 pm)
Replying to: will7 (Feb 02, 2005 3:07 pm) Will7 and others -   Well, a day of adventure. I just finally managed to un-stick my ISCV from idling at 2,00RPM. Now it's back to being alarmingly low. Actually, much better for me than the 2,000RPM. Now with my 4-cylinder, it may be different from the V-6, but I know I can adjust the "throttle-stop" a bit higher to offset the worn-out ISCV.   The standard spec for the throttle-stop is to un-lock the 8mm hex lock-nut, then to adjust the screw (2.5mm hex) out until it just contacts the tang, and them another quarter-turn back inward (opening the throttle a tiny bit). Then tighten the 8mm hex lock-nut snugly, though not too tight - it's aluminum it resting on. I will make that quarter-turn a bit more - perhaps 5/8 to 1/2. Just got to experiment for a slightly-higher idle. I found out today that the ECU will kill all the injectors from firing after a rev to 2-3000 RPM, and then lifting off the throttle. This valve is supposed to react, and catch the idle before it stalls. When the valve is going out, is when it's most likely to die. If I can raise that throttle-stop a hair, I hope to prevent that type of stall.   I believe I just saved about $400 today. Time will tell, though. Am I the only one who had a high idle from the ISCV? Toyota Service hadn't seen this before. If anyone posts with this problem, I'll tell my secret.   Meantime, just know that these ISCV's do wear out, and they are not covered under Drivetrain or Emissions warrantee - so get 'em replaced before the 3/36,000 warrantee runs out. They sludge up quite a bit due to EGR and PCV varnish and such; there also seems to be a bi-metallic thermal spring in there that ages and gets weaker - like old choke-setting springs did. Cleaning them does help, but isn't a lasting fix.   If anyone wants to tackle cleaning it by pulling it off the throttle body, it looks easy. But I couldn't get one of the screw out as they are very tight, and quite soft metal. Just didn't have the exact metric Phillips screwdriver bit, I suppose. I'd recommend first buying the gasket and three new screws first - less than $10 total. And maybe someone can tell me how it worked. I cleaned mine on the vehicle; after a few mishaps, I finally got it.
#2358 of 4694 Highlander Arbitration Cases by scoti1 Feb 03, 2005 (2:55 pm)
Some folks in the Engine Hesitation forum (see "helpful links" in the sidebar) are considering going the arbitration route for their "hesitation" problem. Someone there has said they perused the law databases and reported there have been No arbitration cases with Toyota for this problem. That contradicts what some here have reported. Can anyone who has gone through arbitration with their Highlander (or any model for that matter) give your advice to these others? I think leighanne is one person who shared their case with this board.
#2359 of 4694 Hesitation problems by commish1 Feb 03, 2005 (4:01 pm)
I have an 05 Camry SE V6. I have 2K on the car and have brought it to the dealer 2x. They say the hesitation problem is because of the new drive by wire system. From what I understand this is also a problem in the Highlander. If you have a problem call 1-800-331-4331 Ext 3. This is the corporate office and they will "investigate" this problem. They advised me that they already have had some complaints about this. The more people that complain the better the chances of us having our cars fixed! Replies to this message: scoti1 (Feb 03, 2005 7:57 pm)
#2360 of 4694 Re: Hesitation problems [commish1] by scoti1 Feb 03, 2005 (7:57 pm)
Replying to: commish1 (Feb 03, 2005 4:01 pm) Commish1, thanks. I also encourage you and others with the problem to file complaints with the NHTSA and the Center for Autosafety (http://www.nhtsa.gov and http://www.autosafety.org). They can help nudge Toyota to action if the problem is prevalent or poses a safety hazard.
#2361 of 4694 Highlander 2004, how to program to open all doors at once by chankaishi Feb 04, 2005 (12:11 pm)
I noticed that manual states that I can program my keyless entry to unlock all door at once with a single press, rather then double press in default setting. Manual said that I need to contact dealership to do that which quoted me $50 for that. I'm pretty sure it's 10 step process worth 5 minutes total and don't beleive it's a fair price I'm supposed to be paying to reprogram the vehice. Anybody has instructions how to do that? Replies to this message: ecotrklvr (Feb 04, 2005 9:13 pm) gwkiser (Feb 09, 2005 7:51 am)

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