Last post on May 16, 2013 at 7:34 AM
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Audi A4, Convertible, Sedan, Wagon
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#450 of 2367 Upper control arm failure - dangerous?
Sep 13, 2004 (8:59 am)
I have a 1998 A4 1.8T at 90k. The dealer is telling me the ball joints on my upper control arms are cracked and need replacing. I've searched the forums and I understand that this is a common type of failure for Audis of this vintage.
My concern is this: the dealer is all over the map with regard to the severity of the problem. When they first told me the joints were cracked, I asked if it could wait since I was already in for a timing belt change and some other expensive repairs. Their reply was that it's not too serious a problem and that the worst that would happen is the ride would get bumpier and noisier.
Now the last time I took it in, the mechanic told me I shouldn't drive the car until they're replaced, that I would lose control of the vehicle if they failed. The way in which he said it, coupled with the previous statement that noise and vibration was all I had to worry about, really set off my BS detector. I don't feel like I can get a straight answer out of these folks now.
So is my car really an accident waiting to happen, or are they just trying to pressure me into expensive repairs? FWIW, there is no noise or vibration right now - I wouldn't think there's any problem at all if the dealer wasn't barking about it.
#451 of 2367 Re: Questions about reliability and gas [kristin]
Sep 15, 2004 (2:44 pm)
You ask "if premium gas is absolutely necessary, since it is getting more and more expensive. Has anyone had a problem using regular grade gas?" I assume the manual calls for 91 octane. You could use 87 or 89 octane, but performance will suffer. Instead of 220 hp, your car will have much less hp available. Why pay for premium performance and not get it due to having bought cheaper, lower octane gas? There are knock sensors to adjust the ignition when you use a lower octane gas than required, but if the sensor fails, you could have engine-killing detonation. Is it worth the risk? How many miles do you drive a year? If 20K miles and you get 22mpg, that's 909 gallons/yr. If you bought 93 octane instead of 87 octane, that's $.20 extra/gallon or around $182/yr, or about $3.50/wk. That's a small price to pay for full performance from your Audi. What you could do to save $1/wk is fill it with 87 octane when the gauge is down to 3/4 of a tank, then fill it with 93 octane the next time, when the gauge is down to 1/2 tank. The weighted avg of the octane will still be at 91. If this extra cost of the gas gives you pause, you may want to consider another vehicle.
#452 of 2367 Oil Sludge
Sep 17, 2004 (9:26 am)
Has anyone had an oil sludging problem? I've got a '97 A4 1.8T but didn't receive the oil sludge letter from AoA. My low oil pressure light has been coming on intermittently for about 1 month... It's in the shop now being checked out for the 2nd time. The first time (just before the oil sludge letter was issued), they told me that I just needed an Audi oil filter!
#453 of 2367 Vibration and scratching noise in the gas pedal
Sep 20, 2004 (7:31 pm)
Just got a new A4 1.8 CVT. There is one thing which worries me - the first time I start moving after starting the car, I feel a scratching noise and vibration through the gas pedal. It only takes a fraction of a second and goes away. A service shop says that that's how traction control is activated. But still the sound is a bit strange. Any thoughts?
#454 of 2367 oburg it's normal for the A4
Sep 21, 2004 (3:37 am)
That noise is normal and it is the ABS system running a self-check and pressurizing.
I have confimed this with many other owners over the past year so it is one of those 'they all do that' noises and nothing to worry about.
#455 of 2367 Noise from driver's side Rear of 2001 A4 2.8Q
Sep 22, 2004 (5:09 am)
I have seen a couple of posts on this and I am curious if anyone has had any luck. There seems to be a subtle sort of grinding from the rear driver's side of the car. When I turn to the right it is very noticeable but when I turn to the left it is non existent. It kind of sounds like the binding sound you hear when a 4x4 pickup drives by. Just had new brakes and new tires put on and there are no loose parts. Is this part of the Differential or Quatro system? Any help would be appreciated. O/w this car has been solid for 55k miles and some hard driving over rough dirt roads. I do have the sport suspension on this car.
#456 of 2367 Oil Sludge Victim
Sep 23, 2004 (9:10 pm)
I have 2003 A4 1.8T and my car has been in the shop for now 22 days. It all started with oil pressure warning sign coming on all of a sudden with loud beeping. I originally thought the engine oil level was low, so I immediately filled it with a quart of oil. The warning initially went away, but the next day it came back and I had to take the car to the dealer. On the way there, my engine sounded like a car I just dragged out of a junkyard. (Together with that high pitch hissing noise everytime I come to a rolling stop, my car just looked new, but sounded like 1980 Buick) Anyways, they told me that my oil pump failed and luckily(?) the engine wasn't damaged. I am not so sure that I trust their diagnosis. Right before this happened, my driver side seat warmer was broken during 100 degree heat, so I had the car in the shop a week before this oil sludge problem occurred. I am going to look into filing for lemon law claim to get rid of this car and get something more reliable - a Japanese car. Be careful with Audi cars. Talk to people who own them before you consider owning one yourself.
#457 of 2367 Re: Oil Sludge Victim [hatemya4]
Sep 24, 2004 (10:46 am)
Sorry to hear about your problems. I hope that you've received the letter from Audi of America about the known oil sludge problem. Audi has extended the warranty of the 1.8T engine due to existing damage and now requires that all Audi service centers use synthetic oil during routine maintenance.
The letter from Audi should include a list of approved motor oil that should now be used in the 1.8T engine. The synthetic oil will not generate the sludge that conventional (dyno) oil can. Those owners who chose to use synthetic oil on their own (and brought it in to be used during scheduled maintenance) have not encountered any problems with oil sludge.
You were lucky that only the oil pump failed. With the pump failed, oil circulation stopped. You ran the risk of having the engine components fuse into a solid block of metal due to the missing lubrication of the oil.
I don't think you'll be qualified for any lemon law as it usually referrs to repeated attempts to repair the same problem or having the car in for repairs over XX days and within the first year of ownership.
#458 of 2367 New A4 3.0 Gas Mileage
Sep 24, 2004 (11:33 am)
I just lease a new 2005 A4 3.0. Two questions:
1) Is low gas mileage normal at first?; and
2) When should I use the "S" gear?
#459 of 2367 A4 3.0 Gas mileage
Sep 24, 2004 (4:35 pm)
I felt the same way when I got my '02. I think it's the quattro. It really wasn't that bad though. As for the "S" gear I had the same question. I use "S" quite a bit. It's a great gear. If I'm in city traffic I use it all the time. Getting on a ramp for the expressway also or when I just feel like some giddy up. At red lights when that kid is next to me and is inching up I'll put the car in "S" and give it a go. Don't be afraid to experiment and mix it up. I go from the "trip" to "S" and "D" sometimes when I'm really feeling crazy. Quite frankly, I don't care for the "D". I'd love to drive another A4 to see if it's just mine or determine if the "D" is as choppy in all of them. I pretty much only use "D" when I'm cruising. Anyway, do whatever works for you. The "S" is your friend. Enjoy and Bonne Chance