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Sedans Audi A4 Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair
2138 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 12:23 PM
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I know there is probaly not a better solution than going to a body shop and relace the bumper. But it would not hurt to try it here. Your kind suggestions are highly appreciated. I believe I am not alone. Many of us thinks the front of the 09 A4 is really too low, yes, that is how it happened. Right under the fog light, the edgy bumper of my A4 hit something and left a dent on the edge. I tried to get a dent repair guy and he said he could not do anything since this is not a dent on the side or any major part of the body. Plus the bumper is plastic, a bent-in on a plastic edge is not fixable to him. I have read solutions for plastic bumpers, unfortunately, our A4 edgy bumper is a thick piece that you could not reach in from behind and push the dent out. I tried to use a small device to suck it out (after heating the bumper with hair dryer), but the edge made it impossible for a complete seal, which lost the sucking power. Any thoughts on this? Otherwise, I guess I should convince myself that it is so small a dent or convince myself it is worth it to pay $400 - 500 for a small dent. |
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| 1999 audi a4 6v 2.8l quattro with a 118, 000 mileage. my ignition key is stuck. what is the problem? what is the solution? thank you. | |
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Replying to: mercops (Oct 06, 2009 8:25 am)
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Replying to: vwdawg (Nov 13, 2009 8:23 am) Do you really think you have a sludge issue? As you note, you may have been using the wrong oil. As for the oil issue, Audi/VW oil is no better than a good brand name oil that meets the viscosity and API service requirements for the car. If you are using an oil meeting the API service requirements you are OK. If you are now using the correct viscosity and a good brand your at least headed in the right direction. Heres why: Synthetic oil breaks down at a much higher temperature than mineral/petroleum based oils. Say your synthetic (dependant upon brand) 0w-40 or 5w40 synthetic breaks down at 450 degrees F, your conventional mineral/petroleum based oil probably degrade around 275 degrees F. Synthetics tend to adhere and stay on surfaces whereas regular oil runs off and pools at the low point. Synthetics also protects better against corrosion and protects an over-heated engine. Every turbine engine in the worlds runs using synthetic oil because it can withstand the high operating temperatures. Now consider how hot an exhaust driven turbo-charger gets. The bearings are the weak point. That is why you must use the right grade and API type. Best bet is to determine if you really have a sludge issue in the first place, before attempting to "de-sludge". One of the first indicators of a problem would be decreased oil pressure which can result from clogged oil passages. This will undoubtedly eat your turbcharger first as it is the hottest part of the car that requires oil. If you have good oil pressure (no warning lights, etc.) you can also do a relatively easy check by removing the oil cap and visually looking to see if there is any major accumulation of sludge in the valve head oil valleys or on the valve arms themselves. If you are really enegetic and have a good set of tools, you can always remove the valve cover (requires a new gasket kit and sealer) and visually inspect the underside of the cover (it WILL have a hard varnish looking residue, not a big deal) to determine if there is a major build up. Also as your car has more than 50k on it you may as well clean the valve cover and replace the gasket as they do leak oil over time. This is also a good time to check the oil seals around the spark plug coils. As a reminder, use only approved oils, do not exceed the manufacturer's change interval (better yet, change it at 4,000 miles, use Mann filters) and make it a point to give the turbo a minute or two of cool-down time after high speed or highway driving, which will prevent the oil from "coking" in the turbocharger's bearings. Hope this helps, good luck, and don't forget the extended warranty being provided for sludge issues if you do have them.
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I'm thinking of buying a used 2005.5 Audi with 64,500 miles. Price is right, but I'm wondering if there is anything that I should be aware of for this call. Anybody have any advice or experience with this model? 
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Replying to: cru_jones727 (Nov 16, 2009 9:57 pm) |
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Replying to: mercops (Nov 13, 2009 1:14 pm)
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Replying to: vwdawg (Nov 17, 2009 7:46 am) Cost outlay would only be for the oil (correct synthetic type & API recommendation) and good filtration. I try to stay with Mobil 1 Synthetic as it is a Group IV PAO synthetic oil and is probably one of the best on the market and is comparably priced. This process would help to flush any residual non-spec oil out of the engine and help to "clean" the internal parts of the engine. Again, one of the things that you can do to ensure you Audi keeps running is "routine" owner maintainance and a good inspection when changing the oil and servicing the car. These are the times to "catch" those small items before they worsen, plus you get to know your car and what is in need of attention. Good luck and let us know how you make out. Cheers Mercops
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Can any Audi types tell me where I can locate the EGR on the above vehicle? I have a basic manual which provides instructions on cleaning/replacement, but no photos showing location. Thanks, vwdawg/audiphile1
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Replying to: mercops (Nov 17, 2009 9:31 am)
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