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Sedans Audi A4 Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair
2138 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 12:23 PM
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Replying to: boss9 (Oct 18, 2009 7:08 pm) into a good independent Audi tech and have all systems checked. With 83k, a few things to watch for: 1) You don't mention model year, but it's getting close to the spec (90k) for TIMING BELT change, and many owners change it at even 75-80k. This is an "interference" engine...if the belt breaks, you could blow the engine. Figure $900-1,000 cost to change belt; 2) Jack up the front end and verify control arms and tie rod ends are solid. If bad, you could be looking at $1,000+ unless you're a do-it-yourselfer; and 3) I would not buy this car without service records which verify use of VW/Audi-approved synthethic oil (Pentosin or Mobil 1 5W-40 etc. These engines are prone to sludging, and if you don't have the service records, you are probably SOL. Once again, take it into a good tech before buying! Good luck. audiophile1 |
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Replying to: boss9 (Oct 18, 2009 7:08 pm) |
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Herr Audi, Vas is los mit der marketingeng departmenten? Sie forgotteningen der solid, basic krautenrockert mit der AWD und manual transmissionnen fur der station vagonen. Achh! Hoi! Ver is der solid AWD krautrocken station vagonen mit der manual transmisionen? |
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Audi 2005 A4 Quattro. Engine makes a whirring / whining noise every now and then. Used to be way worse until I got a motor mount replaced. Still whirs / whines every now and then but let it go as normal Audi quirks. Also, brakes squeal a lil; but last time in was told I had enough left on the brakes to not warrant immediate action. Now, lo and behold, I have a new troubling noise. Very hard to describe as it is quite diffuse. Best I can describe is that's it's metal grinding. Maybe occasional clunking. And if I had to guess, I'd say the noise emanates from the rear. Reading thru this discussion, seems like it might be ABS related. I can't isolate when it happens, though it *seems* to happen mostly when I decelerate and break. I know ABS does a boot-up or whatever when you first start the car. My noise is after having driven for a while. Any thoughts, suspicions, etc? Thanks, Mike 
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hi , i bought an audi a4 2002 and the car has couple of issues. The first and probably biggest is the engine. I put the diagnostic system on and i got that all four cylinders miss firing, i pulled the packs off one by one and i found out that the second cylinder was not running. I have changed the coil packs and that did not solve the problem later I checked the compression in the cylinders and I got good value only from one cylinder. Open valve? cylinder head seal? could anyone help me ?
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Replying to: krisztian (Oct 20, 2009 11:08 am) 1. You state that a diagnostic system was put on the engine. Did it record or do you have any codes related to the misfiring? If you have the codes it could help to narrow down the problem. 2. You relate that you checked the compression and got a good value for only one cylinder. Did you do the compression check correctly? For proper check, Audi Tech info requires that the engine oil temperature be at least 85 degrees; the fuel pump fuse be removed; all plugs pulled; fully open throttle valve; attach compression tester and crank engine until the tester shows no further pressure increase. This will give you most accurate compression check. Tech info also shows that on new engine, compression can be 9-14 bars ( 130-200 psi) and the minimum acceptable compression is 7.5 bars (110 psi) with allowable difference between cylinders being 3.5 bars (44 psi). If your readings are within this range, then it is fairly safe to say that the head seal is good (from what I have found, the 1.8 engine head gasket usually does not fail too often). 3. When you pulled the plugs, what did they look like, did they have discoloration? Sooty? Burnt? Correctly gapped? Any deposits that would indicate oil or coolant leaks? Did you replace then when you replaced the coils? 4. Additional info on misfire that you should check is: Faulty spark plug; Faulty ignition wires with connector; Faulty fuel injectors; Crankshaft housing leak (check the hose setup of the crankcase ventilation system for secure seating and proper seal) as this will also cause problems with engine firing correctly (emissions issues) Hope this info helps you diagnose your problems. Let the group know of your success. Cheers Mercops |
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| I have a 2003 A4 1.8T Convertible with 53K miles. I'm noticing a shudder when I accelerate from a stop . . . any thoughts on the cause? It has been going on for awhile but in the last few days it is more often and more pronounced. | |
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Hi everyone. Just sold my 2006 BMW 325xi (that was a repair nightmare) and have a new, 4 week old Audi A4 2010. Much better than the BMW and the dealer has been fantastic, great car. Only issue is the mode switch on left side of the steering wheel that broke a few days after I picked up the car. Dealer advised could not order new one until they could inspect it. In at 7am and twenty minutes later they advised 1. It was a bad switch 2. There were none (zip, nada, zero) in the country and 3. Had to be ordered and no clue when it would be in. Did the survey and gave the dealer and car 5 stars (based on my BMW experience if you mark anything on the survey low Corporate slams the dealer, regardless of any facts.) I noted on the survey I wanted someone from corporate to call me - no one did - and just spoke with my sales rep to get me a name and number. I admit the part is not critical but it is disturbing they don't have one part in the country on a new car and no idea when it will be in. Is this an isolated incidendent or can I expect this to be a routnine occurence? thanks
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Replying to: boas13 (Oct 24, 2009 7:21 am) To be fair, sometimes replacement parts on a brand new model *are* hard to come by. I just don't like the "no clue" part of their answer as to timeframe.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Oct 24, 2009 10:43 am)
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