Last post on May 16, 2013 at 7:34 AM
You are in the Audi A4
What is this discussion about?
Audi A4, Convertible, Sedan, Wagon
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
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#2094 of 2367 Re: 1998 Audi A4 - Can't Remove Battery b/c Rusty Bolt [hoowah]
Oct 15, 2009 (7:34 am)
Simplest way is to go to auto parts or hardware store and buy what is called "penetrating oil" ("Liquid Wrench). Apply it liberally (but don't overdo it) to the threads and base of the bolt where the nut joins it. Let it soak in overnight and then reapply. Key is to give it time to soak in and work on dissolving and penetrating the rust. If you have the room, you can then try giving the nut a couple of decent taps with a punch and hammer to help "break the bond" between the nut and the bolt/stud. Then use a good fitting wrench (socket, box or last resort open-end). Key is to not over torque the nut as it could snap leaving you with an even bigger problem, so take your time and let the penetrant do its thing.
Hope this helps, and do what we do here in Texas...have patience...that's why God gave us Tony Romo.
#2095 of 2367 Re: 1998 Audi A4 - Can't Remove Battery b/c Rusty Bolt [hoowah]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Oct 15, 2009 (7:51 am)
You can also take a hacksaw blade and cut through the bolt right in its center (where the cable end pinches together). Don't go pounding on the battery, you'll damage it. If this is the Positive post, be careful that the hacksaw doesn't touch anything metal as you work. Wear safety glasses.
But yes, rust penetrant, patience and maybe some vice grips are the best way to go.
#2096 of 2367 Rattling noise
Oct 15, 2009 (10:45 am)
2009 A4 Premium Plus. Anyone have problems with driver side (front door) window rattling noise? Anytime I go over a bump or minor pothole, the window/door rattles. I brought it to the dealer but they said they couldn't reproduce it. Planning on bringing it back in and having the mechanic go on a test drive with me.
Thanks in advance.
#2097 of 2367 Re: 99 A4 Quattro shuts off while driving [Mr_Shiftright]
Oct 18, 2009 (7:08 pm)
Hey guys. Im planning to buy an Audi A4 1.8T. However, when i first started it, the idle was kinda high then it got normal after a few minutes. just wanna know if thats normal and are there any problem i should expect knowing that the vehicle has 83k miles?
#2098 of 2367 Re: 99 A4 Quattro shuts off while driving [boss9]
Oct 19, 2009 (7:04 am)
Hey boss: Can't comment on the high idle...might be a good idea to take the car
into a good independent Audi tech and have all systems checked. With 83k, a few things to watch for: 1) You don't mention model year, but it's getting close to the spec (90k) for TIMING BELT change, and many owners change it at even 75-80k. This is an "interference" engine...if the belt breaks, you could blow the engine. Figure $900-1,000 cost to change belt; 2) Jack up the front end and verify control arms and tie rod ends are solid. If bad, you could be looking at $1,000+ unless you're a do-it-yourselfer; and 3) I would not buy this car without service records which verify use of VW/Audi-approved synthethic oil (Pentosin or Mobil 1 5W-40 etc. These engines are prone to sludging, and if you don't have the service records, you are probably SOL. Once again, take it into a good tech before buying! Good luck. audiophile1
#2099 of 2367 Re: 99 A4 Quattro shuts off while driving [boss9]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Oct 19, 2009 (8:33 am)
very good advice from the dawg!
#2100 of 2367 Herr Audi, Vat Har You Sinking?
Oct 19, 2009 (11:08 am)
Vas is los mit der marketingeng departmenten? Sie forgotteningen der solid, basic krautenrockert mit der AWD und manual transmissionnen fur der station vagonen.
Achh! Hoi! Ver is der solid AWD krautrocken station vagonen mit der manual transmisionen?
Oct 19, 2009 (2:59 pm)
Audi 2005 A4 Quattro. Engine makes a whirring / whining noise every now and then. Used to be way worse until I got a motor mount replaced. Still whirs / whines every now and then but let it go as normal Audi quirks. Also, brakes squeal a lil; but last time in was told I had enough left on the brakes to not warrant immediate action. Now, lo and behold, I have a new troubling noise. Very hard to describe as it is quite diffuse. Best I can describe is that's it's metal grinding. Maybe occasional clunking. And if I had to guess, I'd say the noise emanates from the rear. Reading thru this discussion, seems like it might be ABS related. I can't isolate when it happens, though it *seems* to happen mostly when I decelerate and break. I know ABS does a boot-up or whatever when you first start the car. My noise is after having driven for a while. Any thoughts, suspicions, etc? Thanks, Mike
Oct 20, 2009 (11:08 am)
hi , i bought an audi a4 2002 and the car has couple of issues. The first and probably biggest is the engine. I put the diagnostic system on and i got that all four cylinders miss firing, i pulled the packs off one by one and i found out that the second cylinder was not running. I have changed the coil packs and that did not solve the problem later I checked the compression in the cylinders and I got good value only from one cylinder. Open valve? cylinder head seal?
could anyone help me ?
#2103 of 2367 Re: engine poblem [krisztian]
Oct 21, 2009 (8:40 am)
Sounds like you made a good start at trying to diagnose the problems, but I have a couple of questions that may be able to narrow the search. I assume it is a 1.8 liter engine.
1. You state that a diagnostic system was put on the engine. Did it record or do you have any codes related to the misfiring? If you have the codes it could help to narrow down the problem.
2. You relate that you checked the compression and got a good value for only one cylinder. Did you do the compression check correctly? For proper check, Audi Tech info requires that the engine oil temperature be at least 85 degrees; the fuel pump fuse be removed; all plugs pulled; fully open throttle valve; attach compression tester and crank engine until the tester shows no further pressure increase. This will give you most accurate compression check. Tech info also shows that on new engine, compression can be 9-14 bars ( 130-200 psi) and the minimum acceptable compression is 7.5 bars (110 psi) with allowable difference between cylinders being 3.5 bars (44 psi). If your readings are within this range, then it is fairly safe to say that the head seal is good (from what I have found, the 1.8 engine head gasket usually does not fail too often).
3. When you pulled the plugs, what did they look like, did they have discoloration? Sooty? Burnt? Correctly gapped? Any deposits that would indicate oil or coolant leaks? Did you replace then when you replaced the coils?
4. Additional info on misfire that you should check is: Faulty spark plug; Faulty ignition wires with connector; Faulty fuel injectors; Crankshaft housing leak (check the hose setup of the crankcase ventilation system for secure seating and proper seal) as this will also cause problems with engine firing correctly (emissions issues)
Hope this info helps you diagnose your problems. Let the group know of your success.