Last post on May 16, 2013 at 7:34 AM
You are in the Audi A4
What is this discussion about?
Audi A4, Convertible, Sedan, Wagon
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#1843 of 2367 Re: Burns oil [mas2008]
Sep 21, 2008 (6:04 pm)
I have a 2007 A4 2.0T with the same problem. Burn about 1 quart every 2000 miles since the first 3000 miles of use. I have 9400 miles on the car. The problem is with the PCV valve which tends to fail, thus allowing the high pressure from the intake manifold to leak into the crankcase when the turbo is activated. At 8625 miles I have installed Audi's redesigned PCV valve assembly (It is called a PCV pump by Audi/VW). I have observed no oil burning since. The part cost $75 and there is an hour labor involved. I am trying to get re-inbursed by Audi. We shall see. Ay least the oil loss stopped. It is not really "burning", but venting from the pressurized crankcase. You also are lowering your performance, because leaking from the intake to the crankcase reduces turbo pressure from the 0.9 BAR design point.
#1844 of 2367 Looking to buy 2006 Audi A4
Sep 24, 2008 (7:58 am)
I am really interested in buying this certified 2006 Audi A4 that I saw last weekend at a dealer's lot. I test drove it and the final offer from dealer is 23,900 + TTL
Specs: 2006 Audi A4 (registered Sept 2006)
2.0T Automatic Quattro
It is certified upto 6yrs/100,000 miles.
Is this a good deal and how is the reliability of this car? Can I trust the Audi certified warranty?
#1845 of 2367 Looking to buy 2006 Audi A4
Sep 24, 2008 (6:11 pm)
It is a great car to drive. However, you must accept the inconvenience of carrying a quart of oil in your trunk, check the oil level at every time you refill your tank and use roughly a quart of oil every 1200 miles (Audi's level of acceptable oil usage). You will need about 8 quarts between the recommended oil change interval of 10,000 miles. iI you are lucky, or rather if the turbine is not engaged a lot, it might use less.
#1846 of 2367 Re: Burns oil [Mr_Shiftright]
Sep 25, 2008 (2:04 pm)
It may not burn and it may not leak at the bottom and still use oil. The problem is that the the PCV pump system's check valve, the one tied directly to the intake manifold after the turbo, is not closing consistently when the turbo inreases the pressure. The increased pressure then leaks into the crankcase that the other end of the PCV pump assembly is unable to vent completely to the pre turbo section of the intake manifold. The oil leaves in part through the orifice of the dipstick tube, You pull out the dipstick and you will find oil residue on the inlet shoulder. You will also find oil residue on the cowling.
#1847 of 2367 central locking system
Sep 25, 2008 (9:05 pm)
my central locking system is not working thru the use of the remote. i already replaced the battery of the remote and the same is happening. now i have to lock and unlock manually using the key and it's only the driver's door that's working and the rest are not. and the lock/unlocking button inside by the driver side is not working either. but the alarm system is working. anybody can help me. thank you very much.
#1848 of 2367 central locking system
Sep 25, 2008 (9:09 pm)
continuation of the locking system. i forgot, i already checked all the fuses and everything is fine, they are all in good condition. thanks again
Sep 26, 2008 (7:58 am)
Yeah but if it was being pushed out the dipstick hole, the engine bay would be an awful mess. You can imagine this by spraying a quart of oil into your engine bay.
I think a bad PCV could definitely cause more oil burning however, forcing oil past the rings and giving us the phenomenon called "blowby".
Another sign of blowby might be a very oily air filter.
#1850 of 2367 Re: central locking system [wilner]
Sep 26, 2008 (8:07 am)
Check your owners manual - there is likely a re-set procedure needed after changing the battery in the key fob.
#1851 of 2367 Re: Burns oil [Mr_Shiftright]
Sep 26, 2008 (12:11 pm)
Spraying oil into the engine compartment would be a sign of a plugged PCV valve with oil squirting out. Here, the the valve, which is suppose to close when there is positive pressure in the in-take manifold is staying open. the only thing you will see is an oil residue on the cowling, near the oil fill cap and oil deposit on the ring at the end of the dipstick handle and the seat underneath it. If you have instrumentation you can also measure the pressure drop at the turbo output, where the 0.9 Bar normal pressure will drop by about a tenth, because of the leak into the crankcase. We are not talking about a very large amount of oil. My loss is about a quart in 1800-2000 miles. Used to be a quart every 3000 miles. There are lots of suggested fixes. Here is one http://www.golfmkv.net/blog/archives/23. Here is another http://deviantspeed.com/the-ultimate-20t-pcv-fix.
Sep 26, 2008 (1:33 pm)
Thank you for that explanation, but still, a quart of oil is somewhere in the engine compartment (or am I misreading what you are saying?). Where does the oil go, this 1/2 quart every 1,000 miles? Either burn or leak, that's it right?