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Sedans Audi A4 Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair
2132 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 9:57 PM
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Replying to: vwdawg (Nov 13, 2009 8:23 am) Do you really think you have a sludge issue? As you note, you may have been using the wrong oil. As for the oil issue, Audi/VW oil is no better than a good brand name oil that meets the viscosity and API service requirements for the car. If you are using an oil meeting the API service requirements you are OK. If you are now using the correct viscosity and a good brand your at least headed in the right direction. Heres why: Synthetic oil breaks down at a much higher temperature than mineral/petroleum based oils. Say your synthetic (dependant upon brand) 0w-40 or 5w40 synthetic breaks down at 450 degrees F, your conventional mineral/petroleum based oil probably degrade around 275 degrees F. Synthetics tend to adhere and stay on surfaces whereas regular oil runs off and pools at the low point. Synthetics also protects better against corrosion and protects an over-heated engine. Every turbine engine in the worlds runs using synthetic oil because it can withstand the high operating temperatures. Now consider how hot an exhaust driven turbo-charger gets. The bearings are the weak point. That is why you must use the right grade and API type. Best bet is to determine if you really have a sludge issue in the first place, before attempting to "de-sludge". One of the first indicators of a problem would be decreased oil pressure which can result from clogged oil passages. This will undoubtedly eat your turbcharger first as it is the hottest part of the car that requires oil. If you have good oil pressure (no warning lights, etc.) you can also do a relatively easy check by removing the oil cap and visually looking to see if there is any major accumulation of sludge in the valve head oil valleys or on the valve arms themselves. If you are really enegetic and have a good set of tools, you can always remove the valve cover (requires a new gasket kit and sealer) and visually inspect the underside of the cover (it WILL have a hard varnish looking residue, not a big deal) to determine if there is a major build up. Also as your car has more than 50k on it you may as well clean the valve cover and replace the gasket as they do leak oil over time. This is also a good time to check the oil seals around the spark plug coils. As a reminder, use only approved oils, do not exceed the manufacturer's change interval (better yet, change it at 4,000 miles, use Mann filters) and make it a point to give the turbo a minute or two of cool-down time after high speed or highway driving, which will prevent the oil from "coking" in the turbocharger's bearings. Hope this helps, good luck, and don't forget the extended warranty being provided for sludge issues if you do have them.
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I'm thinking of buying a used 2005.5 Audi with 64,500 miles. Price is right, but I'm wondering if there is anything that I should be aware of for this call. Anybody have any advice or experience with this model? 
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Replying to: cru_jones727 (Nov 16, 2009 9:57 pm) |
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Replying to: mercops (Nov 13, 2009 1:14 pm)
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Replying to: vwdawg (Nov 17, 2009 7:46 am) Cost outlay would only be for the oil (correct synthetic type & API recommendation) and good filtration. I try to stay with Mobil 1 Synthetic as it is a Group IV PAO synthetic oil and is probably one of the best on the market and is comparably priced. This process would help to flush any residual non-spec oil out of the engine and help to "clean" the internal parts of the engine. Again, one of the things that you can do to ensure you Audi keeps running is "routine" owner maintainance and a good inspection when changing the oil and servicing the car. These are the times to "catch" those small items before they worsen, plus you get to know your car and what is in need of attention. Good luck and let us know how you make out. Cheers Mercops
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Can any Audi types tell me where I can locate the EGR on the above vehicle? I have a basic manual which provides instructions on cleaning/replacement, but no photos showing location. Thanks, vwdawg/audiphile1
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Replying to: mercops (Nov 17, 2009 9:31 am)
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Replying to: vwdawg (Nov 17, 2009 2:28 pm) As for your comment relating to the prior owner not being diligent, Do not blame the owner. I own a 2002 A-4 Quattro that I took to the dealer religiously and I thought it was well maintained. After the car went off of warranty several problems popped up that sort of focused "lack of Dealer attention" to the car when it was in for normal servicing. Most notably, at 51k miles was the "non-service" of the air filter (engine air) that was not changed, (clogged with leaves, dirt & bugs) even though it was logged (at 40k miles) in the paperwork by the dealer that it had. Dealers have been know, especially when "performing" maintenance services during the first 50k to sometimes "pencilwhip" some of the items that need servicing. This is for several reasons...1 they get reimbursed by the parent company (AUDI-USA), 2. Their service dept. is usually understaffed and focusing on big money repairs, not the mundane items. So for the dealer its a win-win, low labor, easy reimbursement and the customer generally never questions it until the warranty runs out...then they are on their own. I said it earlier, best to crawl around inside your own car and be familiar with it by doing the routine maintenance yourself. Then you know it was done, it was done correctly, and you can take pride in making it run as it should. |
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Replying to: vwdawg (Nov 17, 2009 2:11 pm) http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2748634 |
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| I've read a few posts about the exterior door trim clips rusting and the trim falling off. I'm having that issue now. Anyone know where I can buy the trim and clips and what is involved in replacement if I do this myself? | |
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