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You are in the Prices Paid - Buying & Leasing Experiences
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Nissan Maxima, Sedan
#7 of 859 Shot at 100K -- hard to believe.
Aug 24, 2001 (1:10 pm)
Checked Edmunds for a 1993 GXE list trade-in at 4396, retail $6,500. Could it be that the mechanic wants to be the purchaser at auction. I know this may sound like a Condit answer, but the dealer could be a cheat, or completely honest, a very good, careful mechanic, or one who wants to make a good deal for himself. See if you can find an independent Nissan specialist. Have him do a compression test on the engine, and any relevant tests to determine the health of your engine. If it can be repaired at a reasonable cost then consider the other repairs as well. . NONE of the other repairs merit junking the car.
Tom and Ray of Cartalk.cars.com have calculated that every car (regardless of age) needs about 1200/year for maintenance and repairs. I took their advice about 3 years ago and have the appropriate amount deducted directly from my paycheck into a special auto account. This allows you to save up in easy years for those that are not so good. I generally purchase cars at 50-60K miles and my goal is to run them to 200,000. I’ve got a 1988 Dodge Aires to 170,000 miles. Let me relate this year’s experience with one of my vehicles.
My wife (spotless driving record) slid on some ice in January in our 1991 Mazda. We thought that it just needed an alignment. We took it into the tire shop. They said it needed a new wheel. Purchased the wheel. They couldn't align the car. A lot of stuff was bent. Went to the Mazda specialist and not only did we need to replace steering components because of the accident, but many had to be replaced because they were worn out. We also had to replace suspension items on the side that was not harmed in the accident. So we replaced the both struts, both strut mounts, the steering a-arm, right control arm and right wheel bearing. I had to pay for the strut mounts, and left side strut myself.
After that repair, the car still jerked and wobbled when it hit a bump. We needed new tires anyway. Went back to the tire shop. Couldn't align it again. This time the left side needed a power control arm, and a new ball joint. Frankly the car had vibrated since I bought it 3 years ago, and we’d ignored it since an alignment seemed to minimize the problem. But it was now much worse.
Fixed, and the car drives like it's new. Quiet and beautiful. Total Cost about 3,400. Half paid by insurance. I'm jealous of my wife because her accident actually saved us a bundle. The 2 prior years, total maintenance and repairs was only about $300.00 a year. If I take off $750.00 for the repair that was only caused by the accident, my total costs for 3 years comes to $2650.00. Well within the maintenance amount. The car behaves like it's new. What's more important is that I know know exactly when these components were replaced. I'd rather have a vehicle where I know the repairs that have been done and need to be done.
This has happened on other cars I have had before. There is one bad year, then it works with minimal repairs for 3-5 years.
My view is that if the car still looks and if the engine is intact without a huge expense go after the repairs. Let's look at your repairs.
Tires -- there are a maintenance item, replacing them and an alignment them will improve your ride.
Exhaust. This is a little early for that kind of a repair, but generally the repair for this will be free replacement parts for as long as you own the car -- if you go for a muffler specialist. (I prefer a local specialist over a chain since I was cheated by a major chain. George, are you listening). This is because they generally won't have to replace them again. The first set lasted 100,000 miles, and the second should last at least as long. I would consider this an ordinary maintenance option.
Brakes. Maintenance item. If you've gotten more than 60,000 miles on these in suburban driving, this is excellent. The brakes are due for a replacement as ordinary wear and tear items.
Ball Joint. This is a fairly normal wear item, depending on how it has been driven. I would recommend taking it to a tire store with a good reputation, who has a very experienced mechanic on steering repairs. Let him see what needs to be repaired.
Valve Job. Find another trusted Nissan engine specialist. Have them check on the valves, and do other engine quality checks.If it is really expensive, and requires a full overhaul, then it might be time to consider letting it go.
You don’t have to fix everything at once. The valve job appears iffy at this point. Unless it is damaging the engine further it can be postponed. I would probably fix the brakes, ball joint, and replace tires at the same time as the first repair. Also check shocks control arms and other suspension units.
I find it hard to believe that a Maxima at 100,000 is shot, but a Nissan specialist mechanic outside of the dealership can tell you that independently. He is not involved in car sales – even indirectly.
#8 of 859 Nissan Maxima Timing Belt Replacement
Sep 22, 2001 (10:01 am)
Hello all. Wanted to know if any of you have had the timing belt replaced, and if replaced included the water pump. I purchased a 1995 GLE and negotiated a price because the owner apparently never new to replace the timing belt. It has 114,000 miles on it and is gorgeous. From all indications it should have been replaced at 70,000 miles. I've been quoted 250.00 plus 80.00 for the seals which seems reasonable. Your response is appreciated.
#9 of 859 With that many miles replace
Oct 04, 2001 (7:20 am)
both the timing belt and the water pump. Save a possible expensive repair further down the road.
#10 of 859 timing belt?
Nov 16, 2001 (8:23 am)
I'm pretty sure that the '95 Maxima uses a timing chain, not a belt. Not sure what the replacement schedule on that is, but it should last significantly longer than a timing belt.
#11 of 859 if a chain
Nov 18, 2001 (6:23 pm)
replacement is in the 200,000 mil if not more if it is a belt the price being quoted is pretty good given its a v6.
#12 of 859 i concur mrdetailer
Nov 18, 2001 (6:26 pm)
no maxima is shot a 100k only if there was serious neglect these motors are rock solid have been considered as one of the most revered v6 motors in the industry well known for reliabilty and longevity get another opinion and fast
seems dealer is pulling a fast one
#13 of 859 Larger Oil Filter
Nov 28, 2001 (6:52 am)
Hello everyone, I have a 2000 Maxima SE. I noticed the small oil filter, (#15208 9e000) and am wondering if a larger oil filter will work. My other car is also a nissan 3.0v6 and its filter is larger and seems line up the same. Does anyone know if this can be done and/or what the nissan part # is??.
#14 of 859 Chain vs Belt
Feb 20, 2002 (7:37 am)
Well all to let you know I am a 89 SE Maxima owner and running with 153000 miles. Wished I had waited to purchase the '93 SE when they went to the chain drive system. It needs no replacement, as it is self lubricated and with regular oil changes should never give you any problems. I am about to change my belt for the second time but other than that, MAKE MINE A MAXIMA.
Jul 12, 2002 (7:31 am)
I have a 2000 SE and need to have my 30K mile service done. What should I expect to pay for this? I priced two dealers and both are pushing $500...this seems high to me. They are telling me they will give the car a tune up etc. Does a brand new car need a tune up at 30K miles??? Isn't that why I bought a Nissan?
Any info can be posted or send to mwatermasyskyahoo.com
Thanks to all who reply!
Jul 12, 2002 (11:34 am)
Every 30K miles is pretty standard for tune-ups. Unfortunately, dealers are ridiculous when it comes to pricing a tune-up. I mean, for most of the items it's just a matter of the tech glancing at it to confirm it's okay.
Basically, it needs to be done. Your only options are to either try another dealer or find an independant shop.