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Maintenance & Repair Maintenance & Repair - Archived Discussions VW New Beetle Problems 
94 messages, Last post on Aug 30, 2002 at 4:55 PM
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| I purchased a new beetle in May '99, love driving it and how it looks - it's a fun car. HOWEVER, after having the 2 year maintenence done including rotating of the tires, the left rear brake pad -(or whatever) screeches when I turn left (only left). The mechanics tried to adjust it and it's now worse, even over bumps it screeches (you know I'm coming down the road before you see me!).But I now realize this is the least of my problems, for over a week the car was hard starting ONLY in the morning after sitting all night, and that the trip odometer was resetting to zero - being a woman without much car experience, I thought maybe I had left a light on or something to drain the battery -after all, it's only 2 years old with 18,500 miles on it. This morning it died completely, and I had to have it jumped ($52.00 thank you), took it in to a dealership where it sits right now. Is it possible for a 2 year old battery to go bad - this soon???????????? I had better luck with my old Cavalier. Has anyone else had these problems???? | |
| Yikes, reading this board makes me a little concerned. I've got a 2000 New Beetle with a 5 speed and Turbo and have had no problems in the 10k miles I've logged. The car is fast and fun, roomy and reliable. However, the dealer service dept is full of pinheads,so I dread any problems. Maybe I should sell it now... | |
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My wife has a Turbo - 5 spd. It only has 4,400 miles and has already been in 3 times for the EPC light going on. This has all happened within 1,000 miles. 1st time - the dealer just reset the code. That lasted for 2 miles. 2nd time - Anti-slip light was also on and engine had no power. Dealer replace combination valve. Fix lasted 10 days and 600 miles. 3rd time - replaced accelerator pedal w/potentimeter (what ever that is!) Fix lasted 300 miles. Anyone have any ideas (other than finding a new dealer and/or getting rid of the car) or had experience with EPC light? |
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| My EPC light goes on if I accelerate too hard while the cold engine light is on -- so that makes sense b/c I shouldn't be accelerating hard when the car is warming up. But this morning, after the blue cold engine light went out, my EPC light stayed on and my check engine light came on. The EPC light eventually went off, but my check engine light is still on -- the second time it has come on and I have only had the car for a month. Not to mention that my trunk wouldn't close earlier this week, so the dealer changed my trunk lock. If anyone has had any similar probs, please let me know -- it has only been a month! | |
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Finally getting to the bottom of it. A replacement EPC module is on order and will be getting installed tomorrow. Dealer said it would take 2 weeks to get the part, but in "casually" mentioning this has happened 4 times and I needed to check the "Lemon Laws", the part magically showed up in a few hours. In reply to Dradie - my wife really babies the car. She doesn't accelerate hard when the engine is cold. In fact, the EPC seems to come on when the car gets hot. Last time was in Stop/Go traffic. I have confidence that it was a faulty computer. Time will tell. If it happens again, the dealer will have the opportunity to buy the car back. |
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I own a 2001 Beetle 5 speed with the 2.0 engine. A bit after the 1000 mile mark, the EPC light turned on, with a significant reduction in engine power. On restart, it would clear sometimes and operate normally. At other times (could happen on restart or after driving for a while) the EPC and MIL (malfunction indicator light = check engine light) would light up; sometimes just MIL, sometimes just EPC, sometimes both. I took it into the dealer, and they replaced the throttle body. These cars (the 1.8 T and new for the 2.0 in 2001 according to my service advisor) do not have a throttle cable. When I step on the accelerator pedal, an electronic signal (think of a radio knob) sends a signal to the computer, which then sends a signal to the throttle body and actuates the throttle. The part of the throttle body receiving the electronic signal was not operating properly in my vehicle setting off the warning lights. My car now has 3500 miles without further incident. I saw the internal dealership paper work for my repair, and the part alone cost like $600. I hope this helps you fellow Beetle owners facing a similar problem. As an aside, my 2001 Beetle with 3500 miles on it registers full on the oil dipstick. Something must be screwy when I read about so many peoples experiences with high oil consumption on the 2.0 engine in various VW models. I have not had to add a drop, so I assume that there is some significant variable in the manufacture of the 2.0 engine (my engine code begins with the letters AZG) William |
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Dealer replaced the Electronic Control Module. Started for home and within 1 mile, the lights came on again. Immediately turned around and headed back to the dealer. Had perviously brought the Service Mgr into the loop. He immediately gave us a loaner car and they will be checking with VW on the Tech Hot Line. The saga continues. |
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thanks for your post lounger -- in fact, that is exactly what my problem was -- they replaced the throttle body and it was fine all weekend. hopefully this is the end of it! bigm1 -- good luck!! I hope everything works out and the car gets fixed for good!! I understand your frustration to a certain extent -- keep us posted! dradie |
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| I've refrained from posting anything here because I still owned the thing. I do not recommend it. During the two years and 2 months I owned my 1999 Beetle GLS, the a/c constantly had problems (including dying twice), the driver's side window broke TWICE and the passenger window once, the battery died a year and a half after I purchased it, the tape player died, the cruise control didn't always work right (and at one point did not work at all)and my local service department was TERRIBLE! Because of them, in addition to the above repairs, an inside door handle was not properly reconnected after repairing the window, the auto lock switch was broken after reconnecting the inside door handle and the outside door handle was broken when fixing the other window. I had to fight with the dealership to get them to fix anything after the warranty expired (even though they "fixed" it under warranty once (or twice) before) and most recently, the dealership made me call VW headquarters to file a claim for the second break of the driver's side window! Then, when it came back and the outside door handle did not work, I had to fax a letter to the owner of the dealership and explain that if they have the vehicle for a week and it comes back with something new broken on it, they most likely broke it and should fix it for free! The service manager agreed with me, but when we went to pick up the car, they tried to charge us $200 for the repair! If you are going to buy one, I highly recommend a substantial extended warranty. I traded it in almost two weeks ago, with a value higher than blue book (they really wanted a sale in SF area) and was thankful to be done with it. | |
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