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BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair

2734 messages,  Last post on Mar 25, 2013 at 4:00 PM

You are in the BMW 5-Series Forum.

What is this discussion about? BMW 5 Series, Electrical, Engine, Sedan, Wagon

    
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Messages Page 235 of 274

#2337 of 2734 Re: BMW 540i 1998 A/C repair [Mr_Shiftright] by mhutchinson

May 30, 2009 (2:40 pm)

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 30, 2009 1:03 pm)
I pulled the belt. The compressor is turning fine by hand. No squeaks, no drag, no serious play in the shaft.
Wash out the lines. I've never done that before.
I'm guessing you remove the lines from the car and run [what] through them? How do you dry them out again?
Thanks again Mr. S.
 
The refurbished compressor contains 1.5 oz. of ICE32 oil. I have not lost any oil. Do I need to add any?

#2338 of 2734 Re: BMW 540i 1998 A/C repair [mhutchinson] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

May 30, 2009 (2:53 pm)

Replying to: mhutchinson (May 30, 2009 2:40 pm)
I think you could blow them dry with air. I cleaned mine in a solvent tank---that might have been a bad idea, I don't know, but it worked. Maybe you could just use air at first to see if anything comes out?
 
I'm not an expert on AC and due to chance of injury etc, I'm not keen on advising you on a casual basis.

#2339 of 2734 Re: BMW 540i 1998 A/C repair [Mr_Shiftright] by mhutchinson

May 30, 2009 (3:11 pm)

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 30, 2009 2:53 pm)
Got it. I appreciate the risk of injury using compressed air. I will wear eye protection.
I plan to blow air through the high side line toward the dryer (disconnected of course) into a cloth rag and inspect it for particles.
 
What about the oil capacity? Any idea whether the 1.5 oz. pre-charge will be adequate? I can't find the specs online and I haven't purchased a manual yet (although I will probably do so real soon). Found a used Bentley brand at Amazon.com for $107.
Thanks.

#2340 of 2734 Re: BMW 540i 1998 A/C repair [mhutchinson] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

May 30, 2009 (6:21 pm)

Replying to: mhutchinson (May 30, 2009 3:11 pm)
Oh no I meant injury from pressurizing and depressurizing the AC. I assume you're smart enough not to poke yourself in the eye with an air nozzle--LOL!
 
    * The oil should be replaced whenever a ruptured component is replaced, because the quick discharge causes some of the oil to be released along with the refrigerant
    * Use only PAG oil in an R-134a system (not mineral oil)
    * Use only mineral oil in an R-12 system (not PAG oil).
    * Add the right amount of oil into the system when replacing a major component such as the compressor; condenser, or evaporator.
    * When replacing the compressor; drain the oil from the old compressor and measure the amount. Turning the clutch plate by hand helps "pump" out any remaining oil. Inject an equal amount of fresh oil. Note: service compressors are shipped full of oil; this oil must be drained before the new compressor is installed.
    * When replacing the condenser or evaporator, add 2 oz. of oil to the system.
    * When replacing a receiver/dryer, add 1 oz. of oil to the system.
    * You do not need to add any oil when replacing a hose, since hoses do not collect much oil.
    * Oil can be added to a charged system using the Robinair 18065 oil injector and a manifold gauge set, or the injector bottle on the ACR4 unit.
 
Now those figures are not "total fill capacity", which I guess is for a total overhaul of everything.
 
Those specs are:
 
Nippondenso 160 ML +/- 15 ML
Seiko 180 ML +/- 20 ML
 
So I guess what this is saying is that you still need to know the capacity of the compressor and then add extra if you replace the dryer or the evaporator, right?
 
The total fill specs seem to indicate something like 5 or 6 oz. I think an ounce is about 30 ML
 
Funny German names in there, huh?
 
PS: Watch out---from 9/98 build date, you have different refrigerant capacities than prior to 9/98.
 
Minimum Charging Pressure is 10 BAR

#2341 of 2734 Re: Switching BMW Motor Oil to Synthetic Oil [dfrilot] by mrfinagle

Jun 05, 2009 (7:15 am)

Replying to: dfrilot (Mar 17, 2009 10:32 pm)
great idea to change trans and differential fluid every other yr.
 
full synthetic does not have naturally occurring aromatic hydrocarbons and other compounds which cause sludge like dyno oil, so I would stick with that, although topping off with dyno between changes is fine. Amsoil is not snake oil, its a great oil if a) you can afford it, b) you change your filter every 5k but not the oil, and c) test the oil for breakdown around 10k to decide whether to change it. I'd rather buy Q from wally world and change both every 5k.

#2342 of 2734 Darn rodents!> by andys120

Jun 05, 2009 (8:14 am)

I had the CEL switch on in The Blue Max, my '00 528iA. They checked the codes and it came back as a fault in the Evaporative Emissions System. They checked it out at the indie shop I go to and found that rodents had eaten away at the hoses connecting the gas tank to the charcoal canister, cost to repair (mostly labor $90/hr)=$190.
 
I don't know whether to laugh or cry. I had to replace rodent damage to a previous car when they chewed on the A/C wiring ($700!) in the fender and have taken several anti-rodent measures including D-Con packs and moth (camphor) cakes under the hood.
 
I don't mind those chipmunks running a Club Med for rodents on my property but this *&# has got to stop.
 
Any ideas.
 

#2343 of 2734 Re: Darn rodents!> [andys120] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Jun 05, 2009 (9:26 am)

Replying to: andys120 (Jun 05, 2009 8:14 am)
All I can say is that for some reason, rodents prefer German wiring and hoses. Is this a sinister plot by German parts manufacturers?
 
As for discouraging the little buggers, I think trapping them or that sticky paper stuff might decrease the surplus population. But an all out cure? Probably not possible unless you rodent-proof your garage, which isn't easy unless it's all concrete.

#2344 of 2734 Re: Darn rodents!> [Mr_Shiftright] by roadburner

Jun 05, 2009 (7:34 pm)

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 05, 2009 9:26 am)
As for discouraging the little buggers, I think trapping them or that sticky paper stuff might decrease the surplus population. But an all out cure? Probably not possible unless you rodent-proof your garage, which isn't easy unless it's all concrete.
 
We have a couple of outdoor cats and we have had zero rodent problems since they arrived.

#2345 of 2734 alarm problems by galama

Jun 09, 2009 (8:18 am)

I have 2002 530i stick and my alarm is going off on its own i had this problem with many cars i owned don't know why me. I dont think i have aftermarket alarm im sure its factory unit. Did anyone have any similar problems liek me.

#2346 of 2734 Re: alarm problems [galama] by andys120

Jun 09, 2009 (10:59 am)

Replying to: galama (Jun 09, 2009 8:18 am)
I have 2002 530i stick and my alarm is going off on its own i had this problem with many cars i owned don't know why me. I dont think i have aftermarket alarm im sure its factory unit. Did anyone have any similar problems like me
 
I've had similar problems w my E39 and other cars. They occurred because the motion detectors are VERY sensitive and can be triggered by falling leaves or even a gut of wind especially if the sunroof is left open. If you don't believe me try dropping a pencil thru the open sunroof after locking the doors.
 
 The cure is simple, the motion detector can be disabled by a second push of the lock button (after the first push to lock the doors) on the remote.

Messages Page 235 of 274

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