Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Sedans BMW 5-Series BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair
2416 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 8:41 AM
You are in the BMW 5-Series Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
|
|
|---|---|
|
Replying to: jackieb (Jul 03, 2005 7:33 pm) I can't determine how to access it from the underneath. |
|
|
|
Who knows how to replace the evacuator/dryer? It is located just behind and below the passenger headlight. Do you have any other insights: warnings, online manuals available, etc.? Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: mhutchinson (May 30, 2009 7:45 am) NOTE: A/C system is drawn off. Notes On Replacing Drier Bottle Or Drier Insert The drier bottle or drier insert does not have to be replaced at regular service intervals in a functioning, leakproof A/C system. However, the drier bottle or drier insert must be replaced without fail in the event of: * fouling of the refrigerant by filings/shavings (e.g. when the compressor is clamped) * a leaking A/C system or loss of refrigerant * the refrigerant circuit being opened for a period exceeding 24 hours , e.g. during repair work. Follow instructions for dryer bottle replacement. Remove complete right headlight. Remove holder for headlight mounting.Unfasten screws. NOTE: Pull pressure and intake pipes upwards and fit with plugs if A/C system remains open for longer than one hour. Installation: Replace sealing rings.Unfasten screws and pull drier flask upwards to remove.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 30, 2009 8:25 am) Background: I am replacing the compressor as it began knocking and recently it became loud enough to hear it inside the car driving down the highway with the windows closed. New Problem: I was told there is no in-line filter screen as is found on many US systems. Is this correct? If so, how would I check for or debris/shavings from the compressor except to examine the inside of the lines where I disconnect them from the compressor? Looking fwd to your response.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: mhutchinson (May 30, 2009 11:44 am)
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 30, 2009 12:03 pm) Wash out the lines. I've never done that before. I'm guessing you remove the lines from the car and run [what] through them? How do you dry them out again? Thanks again Mr. S. The refurbished compressor contains 1.5 oz. of ICE32 oil. I have not lost any oil. Do I need to add any?
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: mhutchinson (May 30, 2009 1:40 pm) I'm not an expert on AC and due to chance of injury etc, I'm not keen on advising you on a casual basis. 
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 30, 2009 1:53 pm) I plan to blow air through the high side line toward the dryer (disconnected of course) into a cloth rag and inspect it for particles. What about the oil capacity? Any idea whether the 1.5 oz. pre-charge will be adequate? I can't find the specs online and I haven't purchased a manual yet (although I will probably do so real soon). Found a used Bentley brand at Amazon.com for $107. Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: mhutchinson (May 30, 2009 2:11 pm) * The oil should be replaced whenever a ruptured component is replaced, because the quick discharge causes some of the oil to be released along with the refrigerant * Use only PAG oil in an R-134a system (not mineral oil) * Use only mineral oil in an R-12 system (not PAG oil). * Add the right amount of oil into the system when replacing a major component such as the compressor; condenser, or evaporator. * When replacing the compressor; drain the oil from the old compressor and measure the amount. Turning the clutch plate by hand helps "pump" out any remaining oil. Inject an equal amount of fresh oil. Note: service compressors are shipped full of oil; this oil must be drained before the new compressor is installed. * When replacing the condenser or evaporator, add 2 oz. of oil to the system. * When replacing a receiver/dryer, add 1 oz. of oil to the system. * You do not need to add any oil when replacing a hose, since hoses do not collect much oil. * Oil can be added to a charged system using the Robinair 18065 oil injector and a manifold gauge set, or the injector bottle on the ACR4 unit. Now those figures are not "total fill capacity", which I guess is for a total overhaul of everything. Those specs are: Nippondenso 160 ML +/- 15 ML Seiko 180 ML +/- 20 ML So I guess what this is saying is that you still need to know the capacity of the compressor and then add extra if you replace the dryer or the evaporator, right? The total fill specs seem to indicate something like 5 or 6 oz. I think an ounce is about 30 ML Funny German names in there, huh?  PS: Watch out---from 9/98 build date, you have different refrigerant capacities than prior to 9/98. Minimum Charging Pressure is 10 BAR |
|
|
Replying to: dfrilot (Mar 17, 2009 9:32 pm) full synthetic does not have naturally occurring aromatic hydrocarbons and other compounds which cause sludge like dyno oil, so I would stick with that, although topping off with dyno between changes is fine. Amsoil is not snake oil, its a great oil if a) you can afford it, b) you change your filter every 5k but not the oil, and c) test the oil for breakdown around 10k to decide whether to change it. I'd rather buy Q from wally world and change both every 5k. |
|
You are here:
Forums
Sedans BMW 5-Series BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2011 BMW 5 Series
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
