Last post on Mar 25, 2013 at 4:00 PM
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BMW 5 Series, Electrical, Engine, Sedan, Wagon
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#2134 of 2734 Power loss at 4000 RPM
May 19, 2008 (2:08 pm)
I have my 1995 530i (small block 3.0 liter V8) in at a local indie shop. They have a factory trained BMW mechanic who is having problems solving a problem...I get sudden power loss at about 4000 RPM.
If I get up to that RPM, the power loss is complete until the revs fall, and the check engine light comes on.
Any thoughts as to what to look for, things to check/try? My mechanic is stuck and scratching his head...the short block was replaced under warranty in 1999, so it isn't related to the old problem with sulfur and the original alusil engine blocks in the mid-90s V8s.
#2135 of 2734 Re: Power loss at 4000 RPM [redflea]
May 19, 2008 (2:39 pm)
Try the fuel pump regulator filter. It took 4 different shops to recognize this problem. Strange filter setup on bimmers.
#2136 of 2734 Re: Power loss at 4000 RPM [davis101]
May 19, 2008 (3:09 pm)
Thanks...so you had a similar problem w/power loss at a certain RPM that was resolved by the filter?
#2137 of 2734 Re: Power loss at 4000 RPM [redflea]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
May 19, 2008 (3:42 pm)
fuel pressure---yes, good idea.
Also, has he by-passed or tested the catalytic or checked for a damaged (crunched) exhaust pipe.
What code is the engine light throwing?
#2138 of 2734 Re: Power loss at 4000 RPM [Mr_Shiftright]
May 19, 2008 (6:50 pm)
Thanks - I didn't get the code before I took it in, and forgot to ask them.
I'll pass on the suggestion regarding the catalytic, the exhaust pipe is fine, I did take a look at the underside of the car for another reason, and didn't see anything out of the ordinary.
#2139 of 2734 DOOR PANEL
May 23, 2008 (4:53 pm)
I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW HOW TO REMOVE THE DOOR PANEL ON A 2004 BMW 5 SERIES.
#2140 of 2734 Wheel Alignment and battery - Also Brake questions
May 28, 2008 (8:12 am)
Had the 4 wheel alignment done on the 540 yesterday, since I've switched over to the summer Goodyears a few weeks ago. Was pleasantly surprised at how many of my "before" readings were in spec. The anal part of me looks at the "after" results and wishes that the car was identical in all measurements side to side, but...
I also finally changed the battery, after having one or two instances where I had to roll start the car (manual tranny, fortunately). I've gone since '03 and 149K miles on the original, so no complaints there. I'm using an Interstate MTP93 as the replacement.
On another note, I'm looking to replace/upgrade the rotors, and maybe the pads. I don't want a big brake kit, don't want cross drilled, might be willing to consider slotted or dimpled. All I'm looking for is an antidote to the warping/vibration that I sometimes get after a couple high speed slowdowns. It goes away once the rotors cool, but it is still annoying.
Any suggestions are welcomed.
#2141 of 2734 Re: Wheel Alignment and battery - Also Brake questions [ny540i6]
May 28, 2008 (5:05 pm)
Just replaced my battery and alternator care of BMW on my '03 530SP. OEM battery lasted 55K miles, but believe the alternator was the cause. Also had my rotors/pads replaced when buying my new PZero Nero's from my Custom Wheel/Tire shop in Atlanta - also the high-speed on car balance.
Went with BMW-spec rotors/pads, not the cross-drilled options from Baer or Brembo. Never had any warping on the originals, just wore them down.
#2142 of 2734 Windshield for '03 e39
May 28, 2008 (5:10 pm)
My recent drive from FL to Atlanta over Memorial Day introduced my beautiful '03 e39 to some road gravel on the FL Turnpike outside Orlando. Have some deep pits and a 4" hairline crack right at the rear-view mirror location. Just damn
Mainly an aesthetic concern, but does anyone have experience and recommendations for replacing the windshield?
#2143 of 2734 Re: Windshield for '03 e39 [lovemyclk]
May 28, 2008 (5:59 pm)
I've repaced a windshield about 30K miles ago. First the bad news: That crack will probably spread, so sooner or later you are gonna need new glass. Don't waste your time with those services that promise to "repair" the pitting or stop the crack - it don't work too good I know, I blew $50 on "fixing" a chip.
Now the good news: The E39 is rigid enough that it handles removal/replacement well. The new one is most probably going to be tougher - the original glass is somewhat soft, and pits easily. My replacement is not looking sandblasted yet. Any reputable glass house will do the job, and it should cost a couple hundred bucks.