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Sedans BMW 5-Series BMW 5-Series Maintenance and Repair
2418 messages, Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 8:06 AM
You are in the BMW 5-Series Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: kying (Sep 26, 2006 7:59 am) >>>I've been considering pulling the left-side-C-pillar interior trim to take a look at the antenna amplifier, but was uncertain about exactly HOW it came off. Turns out - it comes off easily. 1. Remove light (small screwdriver - pry out at top). Disconnect power lead to it (some sort of retainer, you gotta wiggle and squeeze it) 2. Put left hand into hole so fingers are on either side of the visible clip. Put right hand into hole with fingers behind the front section of the trim. Pull straight out. There are two clips (one visible, one not) that go into plastic sockets in the body. 3. Wiggle the trim forwards and a bit upwards. It will come out. It is held in by the two pin-clips in the front, and has plastic hooks that slot into matching receptacles in the back around the glass. OK.. had the amplifier exposed. Did the initial test - is it working? Unplugged the violet/white power wire.. radio signal got a LOT worse. Are all the antenna leads to it solid? Yup.. there is an AM/FM lead, and then it turns out a second FM coax that comes from a separate FM amplifier in the right-C-pillar (diversity antenna..) OK.. what's the problem? I wiggled the lead that is the end of the antenna wire going to the radio.. all of a sudden, all the static on the AM band went away. I went and checked signal strengths - they were MUCH higher than I'd ever seen (up around 14 or so - I think 15 is max.. - I'll explain how to do this..) I then checked FM - it was much better also.. I grabbed a pair of pliers and tightened the coax-connector for the antenna lead. Now wiggling it no longer caused the signal to change. OK - how to check signal strength? Turn radio off. Turn on, and press the M button in and hold it. After about 10 seconds you go into diagnostics mode... one of the diagnostics gives signal strength. To roll through the diagnostics - use the manual up-down tuning buttons on either side of the M button. One of the other settings available to you is the auto-volume setting as related to speed (1-6).. mine was at 3, I reset it to 4... Once in the signal strength mode - the display has arrows above the two left MID buttons... The left-most button does manual up/down, and 2nd from the left does auto-seek. The frequency and signal strength read out in the MID.<<<
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Replying to: div2 (Sep 26, 2006 8:58 am) kying |
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I hope someone can offer some advice with a problem in my 2005 545i that I purchased a year ago new. After driving with the air conditioning on, every time I subsequently start my car and drive, the air conditioning smells just horrible. I have had the vehicle in to the dealership on four separate occasions regarding this issue. Their solution is to spray a deodorizer in the system. I informed them that makes the car smell like fragrant mold. Their recommendations are to turn off my air conditioning 2-3 minutes before I pull in my garage and run hot air through the system before I turn the car off. I do not understand what is happening. I have not had to do this in any other vehicle I have owned. In my other vehicles, I was able to leave the air on, park the car, start it in the morning and never smell mold for 2-3 years. Does anyone have the same problem? Can anyone who understands the cooling system of this vehicle give me some advice to tell the dealer to get this problem fixed? Thank you. Erin |
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Replying to: aureachase (Oct 08, 2006 9:08 am) |
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Please share your experiences: - Retail Price vs the final negotiated price - Terms: Deductible, what is covered, etc... - Using the warranty: Any problems, great experience, etc... - What it worth the money? Thanks,
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Replying to: seloo (Oct 31, 2006 9:38 am) Was it worth the money?
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I was offered $23.5k for a 2001 540i sport and $12k on my Jetta trade. Thats a good trade # and seems fair for the car. I am going to have another dealership check it out. My question is, what should I look for on e39 BMW's? Any faults or usual suspects that pop up between 50k and 100k miles? Thanks! |
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Replying to: seloo (Oct 31, 2006 11:40 am) The Kiplinger's Auto issue came yesterday; 5 year service costs for various models are: Audi A6 3.2 AWD $3958 BMW 525i $3241 BMW 335i $3932 Infiniti G35 $3011 Lexus GS 350 AWD $3636 BMW 530i AWD $3241 BMW 550i $3197 Jaguar S-Type 3.0 $5002 Mercedes Benz E350 AWD $5170 BMWs compare favorably this year.
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Replying to: 530ir1150r (Nov 07, 2006 4:20 pm) Not surprisingly, these things (long-term warranty extensions) are sold at a profit -- they cost more than they're worth. The unanswered question in the Kiplinger's data is how much of the service cost had to do with items that were (or could have been) covered by some kind of warranty. I'm not holding my breath until I get that kind of support data. However, the G35 & 325i (on my short list) are in the lowest group and differ by a fraction, so regardless of what the criteria are, I'm going to assume that they're constant across the board. Again, thanks.
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Replying to: cdnpinhead (Nov 07, 2006 5:21 pm) Either way, I look at their information as relative, not absolute. That is a BMW 525i will cost 25% less to maintain than an Audi A6 AWD, not $700 less. |
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