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Toyota Sequoia Maintenance and Repair

1963 messages,  Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 7:53 PM

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#1903 of 1963 Sequoia Headlight adjustment by trapper51 Jan 08, 2009 (9:38 am)
I'd like to know too - the Manual says "See your Toyota Dealer". Never had a vehicle that required me to go to my dealer to adjust the headlights.... then again, never have had a vehicle that didint allow the driver to turn on the inside dome light from the dash board...but thats a Toyota thing, not just a Seq. 'feature'. BTW - My 2001 Sequoia has 206,000 miles and still going strong. I havent replaced anything except a PRNDL light (Park, reverse, Neutral.... ) since 120,000 miles.... it just keeps saving me money.
#1904 of 1963 sequoia headlamps by harbo Jan 08, 2009 (10:21 am)
The Harnes shop manual (any parts house - NAPA / Checker etc) is pretty vague. a lousy picture with the statement, " insert a philips head screwdriver into the hole to make the vertical adjustment". When I looked under the hood at the adjustment point it still is not clear. That said, I'll bet it's the lower bumper driving lites that causes oncoming to flash their beams at you. They can be turned off at the stalk switch. You may want to try that and see if you are still getting flashed.
#1905 of 1963 2002 sequoia - new exhaust system? by boslaw71 Jan 08, 2009 (1:11 pm)
I have a 2002 sequoia limited that has been rapidly falling apart. Latest issue was a replaced windshield which apparently wasn't sealed properly. A leak (which was not caught until the 3rd inspection by Toyota) corroded and ruined the fuse box. When we picked up the car (after they replaced the fuse box), the battery was completely dead and could not be recharged (apparently they left the doors open while repairing the car). The next day, we picked up the car (after they replaced the battery) and the car lost power and couldn't get over 30mph on the highway - back to Toyota. Now, the exhaust system is supposedly shot and needs to be replaced (at a cost of $640).   Funny how every time we go to Toyota to have something fixed, something else turns up broken the very next day.   We have had MANY MANY problems with this car, admittedly some were not caused by Toyota, but we are fed up with the quality issues that WERE caused by Toyota (rear door hatch broke twice, power antenna motor broke 3 times, Drive light has been out for 2 years, cheap plastic that scratches when you look at it, etc.).   Bottom line, we will be buying a new car, and it won't be a Toyota. However, until we can afford the new car, we need to repair the exhaust system. We're out of warranty at this point - is their price reasonable? Any reliable chain that should be able to do it for less? Does their diagnosis sound like it makes sense?
#1906 of 1963 Re: Headlight Adjustment [zabroger] by zabroger Jan 14, 2009 (9:06 pm)
Replying to: zabroger (Jan 08, 2009 9:11 am) To answer my own question. I took my ’08 sequoia to the dealer today to have a windshield washer fluid level sensor replaced. I asked them about adjusting the headlights. They showed me a black plastic cap on the back side of the headlight that needs to be pulled off, under that is a nut that you turn to adjust the headlight. Replies to this message: mikey13170 (Jan 14, 2009 10:15 pm) trapper51 (Jan 15, 2009 6:32 am)
#1907 of 1963 Re: Headlight Adjustment [zabroger] by mikey13170 Jan 14, 2009 (10:15 pm)
Replying to: zabroger (Jan 14, 2009 9:06 pm) Thanks for the post. I have had my 08 now for three weeks and have been flashed about 20 times. I know I have great visibility with the lights and never have to put them on bright, but I may have to make a change in them as well. I sometimes feel guilty when I pull up behind someone in a little car at stoplights and they are completely flooded in light from my Sequoia......I get over it real quick, because most people should accept these things when they buy a vehicle. My wife has Mini Cooper and when I drive it at night I get the same bright lights in my rearview mirror.....I just adjust the mirror and move on.
#1908 of 1963 Re: Headlight Adjustment [zabroger] by trapper51 Jan 15, 2009 (6:32 am)
Replying to: zabroger (Jan 14, 2009 9:06 pm) Cool - thanks for the tip - I've been living with my sub-standard '01 Sequoia headlights for 8 yrs now - but funny thing, the original headlamps have not yet burned out. I swapped them for Sylvania SilverStars thinking I'd finally get brighter beam - but hardly noticable, and the Sylvanias burned out in exactly 1 year. I wrote Sylvania and they admitted "the lifespan will be short for their "High performance" bulbs"! They also gave me refund and I'm using Bosch now I think. The headlights in my wifes 2003 Highlander are much much brighter but dont fit into the Seq..unfortunately - it may be the reflector thats better,not sure. Ive thought about replacing the fog lights with driving lights but havent gotten around to it. Other than the hatch latch failing repeatedly, and the Drive lite out on the dash (at 202,000 miles I cant complain) nothing major has sidelined this vehicle.
#1909 of 1963 I fixed my brakes by jerrydock Jan 21, 2009 (9:39 am)
Like a lot of other Sequoia owners, I have had brake problems and VSC problems.   I finally found the solution. Here is what I did. Good luck with your vehicle.   One day I was on ebay and noticed a set of rear and front brake calipers for a 2006 Sequoia. I was bored and bid $99.00...damn I won. I figured, OK, I will need a set of good discs to go with them. Again I found a set on ebay...CHEAP. New. Drilled and slotted front and rear.   When I jacked up the Sequoia to work on the brakes, I did the rears first...NO PROBLEMS.   The front was a different matter. I knew the front 2006 calipers were larger, but I did not know that the backing plate on my 2001 would interfere with mounting them. I got my sawzall out and a new metal cutting blade. Chopped about an inch and a half off the corners of the backing plate...top and bottom...VOILA... it works. The only other thing that you have to remember is that the 2006 calipers are thinner so you will need to use a washer with the bolt so it does not botttom out when you try to tighten it all up.   NOW FOR THE REALLY GOOD NEWS.   I decided to "re-set" the memory in the on board computers. Doing this is easy. Disconnect the battery. Hold the negative cable and the positive cable together for 10 seconds. Since I did all this, I have had NO warnings from the VSC. The vehicle stops extremely well and the rotors are true so that all my brake chatter and small shimmy at highway speeds has disappeared.   I hope this helps everyone.   So why has Toyota not addressed this issue? Damned if I know. I am just happy to finally have a properly functioning vehicle after 8 years of aggrevation.
#1910 of 1963 Sequoia Brakes by harbo Jan 21, 2009 (10:22 am)
Wow .... thx from all us Sequoia owners ... !! Are the brakes more positive (firm) ??   My Sequoia an 02, 120,000 mile Lmtd. Routine maintenence except for (2nd) rear latch. K & N air filters, Bosch Platinum 4 prong plugs, Castrol Syntx 5W40. 16/17 City, 20 mpg highway interstate + spds. I'm waiting for the twin turbo diesel Sequoia. Get with the future Toyota Corp.
#1911 of 1963 A world of difference by jerrydock Jan 22, 2009 (2:55 am)
The brakes are awesome. It stops without drama. No vibrations. No shimmying. No "out of balance" feeling while at speed. Stopping distances are dramatically reduced. What I still cannot get over is the absence of the old VSC warning lights flashing and the ABS going out.   I just wish I had sat down and applied what I knew about race cars to this problem 5 years ago when I gave up on Toyota and their "technicians". I prefer mechanics.
#1912 of 1963 Re: VSC & Trac Control Lights on [dgut] by brin2003 Feb 09, 2009 (8:39 am)
Replying to: dgut (Aug 31, 2006 11:28 am) We just had this similar problem. Everytime we started the car and put it into drive, you could hear the VSC/TRAC system trying to work and then it would beep,and the lights would come on and stay on. I saw that someone else had taken out the VSC sensors from the wheel hub, on all four tires and found they were rusted. When the rust is cleaned off and reinstalled, then unplug vehicle battery to reset computer and the problem is solved. THere is a O-ring that is worn on my back two wheels that has allowed rust and debris to form on the sensors. I'll be replacing those rings. This was a pretty simple fix, for what could have been a very expensive dealer repair.

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