Last post on Apr 20, 2011 at 9:41 PM
You are in the Nissan Altima
What is this discussion about?
Nissan Altima, Sedan
#4869 of 4962 Re: BAD2005SL [bad2005sl]
Nov 23, 2005 (10:07 am)
Unfortunately, it's not just you. Where do I start? I have a 2002 Nissan Altima that I'm leasing. Since driving off the lot my service engine light has been on. Too many times to count my car would not start at random times. Even worse, due to a recall my engine was burning oil. Didn't know this and drove my car resulting in engine damage. Cost me $2000 to replace my engine. I've filed three complaints with Consumer Affairs but they all both denied due to being out of warranty. Even after replacing the engine, my car started stalling while driving. I can't afford to pay anymore to get it fixed. The last time it stalled Nissan ended up paying for it because they tried to sell me another car, loan fell through, but ended up having to fix my Altima because they were going to sell it. Strange way to get Nissan to pay for their lemon, huh? I WOULD SAY SPREAD THE WORD, NISSAN TREATS THEIR CUSTOMERS SO NOT RIGHT!
#4870 of 4962 Accords rear seat is NOT split
Nov 23, 2005 (1:18 pm)
The Altima has so many positive advantages over the Accord, most of them effect the driver and passengers. One of the bigeest flaws of the Honda Accord is that the rear seat fold dowm, but all of it, it's not split, so if you plan on extra passengers in the rear with long items like SKI's - it's not going to happen in the Accord, but with the Altima you can fit 4 people and skis's - not in an Accord. Plus the Altima has a bigger fuel tank balanced within the frame, the Accords fuel tank is on the driver side. Also the standard Power of the Nissan Altima's 4 cyl. and 6 cyl. is better, plus Nissan has a better Warranty. Nissans don't break down anymore ... Altima is a great car, and is fun, is quality and is extremely durable and reliable.
#4871 of 4962 Hello..I'm New!! ANYONE ADDED SYNTHETIC?
Nov 23, 2005 (1:41 pm)
Just bought a 2006 2.5S Sp.edition last week. The car is too new to comment on. I test drove 06 sonata (very good) , Mazda 06, Ford Fusion and finally settled on the Altima. The car rides great and is fun to drive, spacious and moves fast. I miss heated mirrors and am surprised at the hood support push rod!!. Most of the new cars have hydraulic supports.
Has anyone on the forum used synthetic oil?. The manual recommends mineral based oil, but my dealer tells me synthetic could be added.
#4872 of 4962 Re: Hello..I'm New!! ANYONE ADDED SYNTHETIC? [rasup]
Nov 25, 2005 (2:33 am)
"Most of the new cars have hydraulic supports. Has anyone on the forum used synthetic oil?. The manual recommends mineral based oil, but my dealer tells me synthetic could be added."
You'd be surprised how many mid-size cars use a rod hood support in cars equipped with 4-cyl engines, but pop for hydraulic hood supports in models equipped with 6-cyl engines. My 2003 Hyundai Sonata is an example. (I haven't checked out a 2006 4-cyl Sonata personally, though.) I've read about Nissan's owner's manual recommendations for mineral oil, and it's "curious" to say the least. I'm unaware of any fundemental technical reason not to use synthetic oil in Nissan engines, but I see no overriding reason to go to the additional expense of synthetics if you plan to change oil according to the owner's manual recommendations either - except for the "feel good" factor. It's really your call. Keep in mind, that where synthetic motor oil is not specifically required to maintain your engine warranty rights, no manufacturer, domestic or foreign, can withold honoring a warranty claim due to use of conventional mineral oil of the correct viscosity, but regardless of type of oil used, no manufacturer will honor a warranty claim for oil related failure if the owner fails to abide by the owner's manual periodic oil change interval. In other words, if you use a pricey synthetic and keep it in service for, say, 12,000-15,000 miles at a time, and after 2 years, 9 months the engine flies apart at 29,000 miles, you're on your own if Nissan can present compelling evidence that your extended drain intervals materially contributed to the engine's demise. (The burden of proof is always on the manufacturer or his agent.) Also keep in mind that current conventional (mineral) oils are awfully close to the performance levels of pure synthetics of just 3-5 years ago - leastways at reasonable 5,000-6,000 mile oil change intervals and they're fully capable of supporting 300,000+ miles of engine longevity at these change intervals in engines driven sensibly. Two really good "conventional" motor oils currently available are Havoline conventional and Motorcraft "Premium Synthetic-Blend" - both generally available for under $2.00/qt. at WalMart if you do your own oil changes. (In the U.S., Ford's "Motorcraft" brand oils are blended and bottled by ConocoPhillips - the fifth largest oil company in the U.S.) Presumably your owner's manual recommends 5W-30 viscosity in most areas of the U.S.? If your geographical area necessitates 0W-30 viscosity for winter operation, both Mobil1 and Castrol Syntec have appropriate full synthetics. Just be cautious about extended oil change intervals while under warranty.
*The "synthetic" component in Motorcraft Premium Synthetic Blend motor oil is really a conventional mineral oil, but so fundementally altered through a process known as "severe hydroprocessing" that it meets industry agreed-upon technical definitions of synthetic performance. The short explanation of hydroprocessing is passing the feed oil stock from the refinery's distillation tower into a pressure vessel (literally a VERY large electric pressure cooker), seal it up tight, and "cook" the contents under 400+ degree heat in the presence of pure hydrogen gas under very high pressure and specific catalytic salts to convert (isomerize) undesirable molecules into desired oil molecules. Depending on the length of time involved, one of two "classes" of base oil stocks result: "Group II" or "Group III". Think of Group III as mo' better Group II, having been cooked longer. In the process, undesirable sulfur-containing molecules (unstable at engine operating temperatures and which tend to form destructive sulfuric acid in the sump) are reformed, too, into desirable oil molecules. The dissociated elemental sulfur remains behind as sediment in the bottom of the reaction vessel from which it's collected, further purified, and sold for commercial industrial purposes. (Sulfur's really great stuff, but you don't want any in your engine oil.) In the case of Motorcraft Premium Synthetic Blend 5W-20, 5W-30, and 10W-30 motor oils, they're a varying blend of Group II and Group III base stocks plus anti-wear, detergent/dispersant, and viscosity stabilizing additives for the final product. ConocoPhillips publically admits that the Group III content is "minimally well in excess of 68%". Havoline, on the other hand, has no Group III component, but is a blend of Group II and what is unofficially classed as "Group II+" base oil stocks. Group II+ is a casually agreed upon industry-wide convenience designation among refiners as superior to straight Group II, but just marginally shy of officially qualifying to the API Group III designation. (An analogy would be a piece of otherwise exquisite Waterford Crystal with an all but unnoticeable, tiny chip in the base.) Havoline (a wholly-owned subsidiary of Chevron Oil Company now) lists its 5W-20 and 5W-30 conventional motor oils as "ISOSYN" on the labels which identify the company's Group II/Group II+ blends. Havoline's 10W-30 viscosity motor oil is a fully additized Group II product. Until about four years ago, virtually all conventional mineral oil based motor oils were additized Group I products. Current conventional motor oils are a sea change from the Group I products.
(for anyone bored to tears with this tribological diatribe - sorry...)
#4873 of 4962 Re: Altima problems [big_guy]
Nov 25, 2005 (7:28 am)
My '05 Altima has the exact same transmission problem. I notice it most when the AC is on. Although I mentioned the problem to the dealer, they dismissed it as "normal". My theory is it has something to do with the drive-by-wire system now used in the Altimas.
#4874 of 4962 Re: Altima problems [caedward2]
Nov 26, 2005 (12:43 pm)
I just got my 2005 Altima back after having the exact same jerkiness-low acceleration issue. They replaced something to do with the throttle and it now works like a charm. Whenit first happend I too thought it transmission related.
#4875 of 4962 Re: Altima problems [globilly]
Nov 26, 2005 (1:28 pm)
Would you kindly post as to exactly what part they replaced? That way I can go to the dealer with the information.
#4876 of 4962 haefr..Oil details
Nov 29, 2005 (1:19 pm)
Haefr, thank you for a very detailed explanation. The bottom line is making sure that we use good quality oil and do the changes as required. Its 400 miles so far. Very pleasurable to drive. Mileage in mixed traffic with 2.5S 2006 is around 21.6. I have frequent stop and go conditions. So far so good.
#4877 of 4962 Disappointed, mad and just plain angry!!
Nov 30, 2005 (2:32 pm)
this is long but can be entertaining!!! I bought a nu 05 altima in aug 05 and after about a month a herd the brakes,I ignored it bcuz hey it couldnt b my car bcuz it was nu. After a cple more wks I turned down the radio and really heard that it was my car a high pitch squilling and the brakes felt funny (grinding)so I took my nu car to the dealer on 10/05/05 I took the car into Nissan and they replaced the front pads and resurfaced the front rotors. On 10/24/05 I took my car back to Nissan for the same complaint and was told that they could not duplicate the problem. On 10/31/05 I took the car back to and was told that the left rotors were a little rough and they resurfaced both left side rotors and that would take care of the problem. on 11/07/05 I took my car back and they replaced the front brakes, said they put a compound on them to tell why they are wearing unevenly as i might have a bad caliper, they told me to drive it for 500 more miles and bring it back. I have called consumer affairs and recieved no assistance and now I have a lemon law hearing for friday because as of today the problem still exists and is getting worse. I have been told that the noise is normal and I dont believe anyone buys a car to have brakes sounding like they are about to pop off or feel as though they are not going to catch and stop but hey it could just be me. i was also told to take it back to the dealer i purchased it from which dumbfounded me as I thought all Nissan dealers were authorized and trained to repair their cars. I was told to take it for a second opinion so i asked Nissan would you like me to take it to Honda or Toyota. I bought this car bcuz my lease on my Accord was up and I loved the look and initial feel of the car, if I am sucessful with my hearing its back to honda for me. I had 82mi and had no trouble, the trans had 2 b replaced but honda replaced it under warranty even though it has expired as they said I was a good customer by always taking my car to the dealer for service and maintance. too bad Nissan doesn't have this approach especially with a nu car under 3700mi at first brake replacement.
#4878 of 4962 Re: Disappointed, mad and just plain angry!! [alj820]
Dec 01, 2005 (12:45 pm)
I must've missed something in your timeline - what was the final word regarding the possibility of a defective caliper before you filed your lemon law case?