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Sedans Pontiac Bonneville Pontiac Bonneville Owners: Accessories & Modifications
174 messages, Last post on Sep 26, 2008 at 10:40 AM
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I have a 1992 sse that has a strange problem, the dash is acting very erractically, the gauges will not function 1/2 of the time and the rest of the dash systems monitor, compass, and lights will come on and off with no apparent rhyme nor reason. I thought I had traced it down to a bad ignition switch as wiggling the key made it happen. After changing the ignition switch ( on the top of the column ) now the problem persists, but is less erratic. My thoughts are either a hairline crack in the PC board on the instrument cluster, a bad body computer, or a bad ground somewhere. Anyone out there have had a similar occurance? Any suggestions on where to look next? I acquired a set of factory service manuals but there is nothing in there regarding this situtation. Any pontiac techs out there? 
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Replying to: danamark (Jun 26, 2006 6:23 am) |
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I have a portable GPS system that is powered via the cigarette lighter in my 1999 Bonneville. I like the idea of a portable GPS that I can move to other vehicles. My problem is that I typically leave the GPS in the Bonneville (and routinely use the Bluetooth cellphone hands-free feature), but when I shut off the engine, the GPS unit remains on. I have to remember to unplug the GPS from the lighter every time. If the lighter was not powered when the ignition is off, the GPS unit would shut off also. Anyone know how to make the lighter only powered when the ignition is on? Thanks!
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Replying to: kevakasper (Nov 12, 2006 7:40 am) |
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Replying to: 4lewis (Jan 04, 2006 4:31 pm) My 96 Bonnevile SE had the same problem, and one of the dealers tried telling me it was a battery or a starter. The positive way to identify if this is your problem is to turn the key on and if the yellow security light keeps flashing after all the others go back off, VATS isn't reading your key. To fix it, you'll need to replace the ignition lock cylinder; it will have the new wires. To do this you have to take the column apart starting with the airbag & steering wheel. If you don't have a lot of mechanical experience I wouldn't recommend it. If you do think you can do it, you take the wheel off and work down through the inside of the column till you get to the lock cylinder. To get the steering wheel off you'll need a puller that screws into the wheel and presses on the shaft. You'll encounter several snap rings that are difficult to get out, especially the one for the steering wheel lock. I made a tool that pressed back on the lock plate (it's spring loaded) while I tried to get the snap ring out. Basically it tightened under the steering wheel nut with legs that pressed on the plate as I tightened the nut. You'll have to pull the wires that were attached to the lock cylinder out of the main connector under the dash and pull them up the column to get them out. Important! You will want to pull a string up the column as you pull out the old wires so that you can pull the new wires back down through. The way to bypass the system would be to unplug the wires coming from the existing lock cylinder and plug in a new lock cylinder, stash it under the dash with a key with the proper chip in it. The matching key would be an extra $20 or more. The wires on mine were small yellow wires and you'll be looking for them to come from the column. Your best bet is to find a mechanic that is cheaper than a dealer that can replace a GM ignition lock cylinder and that you trust. I have a 98 Bonneville SE and love it! Currently 288,000 miles and going strong!
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Replying to: stoddard (Jan 27, 2007 12:34 pm) A way to fix the problem is to replace the resistor reading from the key with a resistor reading from a resistor. The wires in the lock cylinder don't move; rather the key brushes them as it is inserted. The two contacts can be dirty. Alcohol on the key's own resistor and putting the key in and out several times may help. Rubbing the resistor on the key with a pencil eraser to remove crud or corrosion on the metal contacts may help. The analysis of the system must be done. Put the key in, turn it to "on" for a second, then rotate to "crank." When it goes to "on" the security light should go on steady. If it starts flashing, then the resistance is not being read correctly, most likely. If the light is steady and you turn to "crank" you should have the starter engage. If light is steady and the starter doesn't engage it could be the relay for the starter engagement capability, which is difficult to get to. Not as likely as other problems. If the light is flashing when turned to "on" in above steps, then leave the key and wait three minutes. The light should go off and be ready for another key reading. The light may be steady after the flashing ends. If the car cranks fine then, my _guess_ is your system is doing what mine has done. If the key reading is still giving a flashing light, then you may want to try the resistors from Radio Shack to replace the key's reading. You go to the wires down near a connector on the base of the steering column. The two tiny, little wires from the key reading contacts are enclosed in a yellow or white piece of tubing that looks like a wire itself. You use a resistance meter to read the keys you have. You get equivalent resistance from Radio Shack to substitute in the circuit and solder, clip or otherwise connect that in the lines goes toward the computer--not toward the top of the steering wheel. You don't need that part any more. Or you can remove the code reader box (can't think of the proper name at the minute where those two little wires run over on the right side of the dash. This is about hand sized and is held up by one screw behind the glovebox. Remove the hush panel under the dash, drop the glove box by screws holding its hinge on the bottom (I'm assume Pontiac is same as LeSabre), and from a service manual locate the proper two wires there and cut them and substitute the resistors in the circuit toward the passkey code reader box. Here you are working with 18-20 gauge wires and are not upside down under the steering column. In my car's case the reader didn't work right at times when I turned the key very quickly through "on" and to the "Crank." I'd wait three minutes and everything was fine. This continued over a couple of years with an occasional time where the security light would flash on for a few minutes while driving. I prepared to replace resistors over at the right hand side. I even loosened the keycode reader box. But the security light quit coming on at all. A post somewhere had someone whose system had had the light on for years and hadn't locked him out. I believe there are 4 failure modes for the keycode reader those years. One mode is it decides it has lost its mind and just automatically sends the Okay signal tot he computer so it allows injectors and crank operation. If the motor has started, the system will not shut down the motor. That was always my fear. But research and my service manual convinced me. I've gone 6 months so yours probably will do the same if the system acts the same. If you do the resistors: Orange, White, Red, Black RES390 - 392 Green, Red, Orange Black RES510 CN 523 Blue, Gray Brown, Black RES680 FW 681 Gray, Gray, Violet, Black RES910 GP 887 Brown, Brown, Orange, Brown RES1.1K KA 1130 Brown, Yellow, Violet, Brown RES1.5K N5 1470 Brown, Gray, Violet, Brown RES1.8K UN 1870 Red, Orange, Violet, Brown RES2.4K XB 2370 Orange, Black, Brown, Brown RES3.0K GA 3010 Orange, Violet, Yellow, Brown RES3.6K NP 3740 Yellow, Violet, Green, Brown RES4.7K FY 4750 Blue, Black, Yellow, Brown RES6.2K C5 6040 Violet, Green, Black, Brown RES7.5K XY 7500 White, Green, Orange, Brown RES10K KB 9530 Brown, Brown, Gray, Red RES12K UW 11800 the ohms should match one o the numbers at the end of this list within 10%. My car s the 887 ohms and my reading was 878 and I found 4 220 Ohms at Radio Shack for $.99. I was ready to solder them end to end for 880, but my car just keeps on running. Try cleaning, and then rotating key stopping at each step. Watch the symptoms. Let me know if you want more links and info on connectors. |
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what kind of shocks work best on the 96 bonny se
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Replying to: blackice1 (Mar 04, 2007 7:35 am) |
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Replying to: daytona2 (Jan 16, 2007 7:27 pm) Did any one ever get back to you saying that there should be a fuse that you move from one set of clips to another? If you have your manual, look at the fuse section. It probably says "move such and such fuse from inboard position to outboard" or something like that. It may be the same as my 01 Bonny. Easy fix, I think! 
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I love the Bonneville SSEI, but I have had many problems. Large and small! Mine is an '01 and here is my dilemma... As with all cars, mine doesn't do the bad things when I take it in for warranty work. FRUSTRATING! Anyway, I have been told that my HUD display is fine, but I remember it being brighter on those bright sunny days. I can hardly see it - esp. on a concrete road. I thought maybe I had a bad light sensor in the HUD display itself, but I dunno. Any thoughts? Also, I have an erratically working warning chime and clunking when I back up to the left or right - as if I had a bad tie rod, but I don't. It's not the interm. steering connector as I have had that replaced. Any thoughts would be appreciated! |
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