Last post on Jun 11, 2013 at 1:44 PM
You are in the Hyundai Santa Fe
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Hyundai Santa Fe, SUV
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#1871 of 1934 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, 3.5, 54K mi. Purge valve, fluids flushed
May 26, 2011 (6:40 pm)
After having the car at the dealer for a thorough routine service+ for travel from FL to CT, the engine light went on and stayed on. I brought it back and they did their magic and it went off. Then it re-lit and stayed on which I brought it back. They want to replace the purge valve ($250). Messages on this issue relate to engine stalling after filling with gas. I didn't have that problem. Why are they suggesting this repair? Also, recommending brake fluid flush ($110), power steering fluid flush ($110) and coolant fluid flush ($120). Is this necessary given yr./mileage? They also want to replace the original battery for $150, which batteries need to be replaced after this length of time. Does all this sound OK? It has been a great car for me with little repairs so far but am I being taken for a "ride"?
#1872 of 1934 Re: 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, 3.5, 54K mi. Purge valve, fluids flushed [biged99]
May 27, 2011 (3:29 pm)
Not sure if this helps, but I had, I think, the same problem with the purge valve a few years back. What caused the problem was that when I filled the car up at the gas station I kept topping off the gas to make I sure I got a full tank. It effected the purge valve. I can look at at my repair record to be sure.
#1873 of 1934 Check Engine or MIL light
May 31, 2011 (4:33 pm)
For the past 6 months or so, my MIL light has come on every time I fill up my car with gas. I loosen the gas cap and put it back on and that seems to correct the problem, temporarily, until I need to fill my tank again. I have a 2004 Santa Fe 6 cyl. 3.5L engine. I have had my mechanic pull the code for this and it comes up as an evap leak. I have replaced my gas cap with a new one but the problem still exists. I have had the gas cap checked and it is OK (spent the extra money to buy it from the dealership to make sure that it is the correct part for my car.) I stop filling when the gas pump shuts off (I originally thought the problem was caused by topping off the tank so I make sure I don't do this, and I always make sure I put the cap on tightly as I know this could also cause the problem.) I was told by my mechanic that there is really nothing they can do except replace the gas tank nozzle and that may not even correct the problem so I should just deal with it until the light doesn't go off after replacing the gas cap. It usually comes on the day after I fill up my car and after replacing the cap will take about a day to go out. This was a major concern when I needed to get my new tags as my car wouldn't pass emissions with the check engine light on. I had the mechanic reset the code and I didn't fill up the tank until after I had passed emissions, so that is no longer a concern. This is more an annoyance than anything else and I was wondering if anyone else had this problem and what they did to fix it or if there is even a fix for this.
#1874 of 1934 MAF for 2001 hyundai santa fe
Jun 02, 2011 (6:15 pm)
I got a code on the OBD-2 pointing to the MAF as the problem on my wifes santa fe becuae it had been sputtering. So I took it off cleaned it put it back on and when I tried to turn the car on it wouldnt turn over all that would happen was the lights would go dim and flash. Has this ever happened to anybody because Im really at a lost. Could really use some help.
#1875 of 1934 Re: MAF for 2001 hyundai santa fe [santos3]
Jun 06, 2011 (4:04 pm)
are you sure you didn't drain down the battery? Make sure it's fully charged. And make sure the maf is dry before you try to start...
#1876 of 1934 Re: Check Engine or MIL light [hmarkster]
Jun 26, 2011 (7:57 pm)
I have a 2004 Santa Fe that had the same problem. My mechanic said that this is a common problem due to the poor design of the evap system. The problem occurs when your fuel tank is overfilled. The gas is too high in the filler neck thereby causing fuel to flow into the charcoal (EVAP) canister. A defective refuel and/or fuel cutoff valve would could cause this problem. It's possible that your charcoal canister was saturated with gasoline too so that may need replaced.
#1877 of 1934 Catyaltc Converter/Manifold crack?
Jul 07, 2011 (4:42 pm)
I have a 2004 Santa Fe with 97000 miles on it. My check engine light went on last week and I took it to the dealer. They told me I had a cracked manifold and needed a new O2 sensor. I had to pre-order the O2 sensor $150. I went on vacation and took the car in today. It had not been driven the past week - and was acting weird as I drove to the dealer. It was revving at 5000 rpms before it would sift around 20 - 25 miles (it is an automatic). I mentioned this to the dealer, they hooked it up and found out I needed a new catalytic converter. They quoted me at 2400 for parts and 3100 with labor for the catalytic converter - and I still 'need' the manifold and O2 sensor. This sees outragous to me- any ideas? Does this seem like a lot?
I should also mention this past spring I took it in for revving issues and they 'took' care it by replacing the spark plugs and something else. n
I know I should take it somewhere else but I worry about driving it - Think it will be ok to drive slowly somewhere else?
#1878 of 1934 Auto lock malfunction
Jul 19, 2011 (1:06 am)
I'm new to this website and forum, but I've got nowhere else to turn with this creepy problem. I have a 2001 (or) 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe... can't remember at this time. I bought it used at a not-so-professional "dealership" close to a year ago. Until now there have been zero problems with my vehicle and its functions.
About a week or so ago, I unlocked my car with my key fob (as usual) to retrieve something from my passenger side. Almost a split second later, my car locked itself back up. I had successfully unlocked all four doors and the hatchback before this had happened. At first I thought it was my imagination and let it go. Then a few days later I went to unlock my car to get in and the doors locked a few seconds later; it turns out it wasn't a one-time thing. I had told my Dad about this issue and he seemed stunned, to my suprise. He doesn't really have a clue about what this could be, or what the cause is. And I must say, he knows a lot about cars.
Soooo, I thought the problem was just a willy-nilly thing that happened on occassion, until it happened again today but this time while I was DRIVING! My vehicle is not programmed to lock when it reaches a certain speed. It only is supposed to automatically lock after the twenty seconds or so that I unlock it and don't open any doors, for safety. Today I had been driving for about three minutes and was at a steady speed of 55. All of a sudden my doors lock and it scared me half to death. It frightens me to think that my vehicle could lock itself at any moment, including while I am in it. Not a very good safety habit it has learned I must say.
Could this be a problem with my key fob or my electrical/mechanical system in my vehicle? I'd love to know so I can hopefully have this problem adressed and solved. Thank you for reading!
#1880 of 1934 2002 Sante Fe gone bad!
Jul 21, 2011 (6:55 pm)
I have a 2002 Sante Fe and recently it has started making this loud ridiculous sound like as if the engine is about the explode, it wont accelerate when its making this sound and after a few miles of driving through the sound it just stops. Im also having a problem getting up to speed, if I come to a stop or try to accelerate quickly it really lags and takes about a mile or two to really get up to speed. It also makes this LOUD ticking sound when I first start my car and after its been driven a few miles that sound goes away. My Dad replaced the power steering pump thinking that was the problem but its just seems to get worse and worse every day! It has 145,000 miles on it, I bought it used 2 years ago with 100,000 and drive a long haul to work. Has anyone else had this problem or even heard of anything close to what I am explaining???