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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2006 and earlier)

1934 messages,  Last post on Jun 11, 2013 at 1:44 PM

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What is this discussion about? Hyundai Santa Fe, SUV

    

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Messages Page 143 of 195

#1412 of 1934 Re: 2002 Santa Fe rear end noise. [jcspohr] by bw3

Aug 30, 2006 (8:12 am)

Replying to: jcspohr (Aug 28, 2006 10:48 am)
Thanks for the help.
I had the dealer do an alignment to all wheels. Lower, front ball joints were replaced and a complete wheel balance with what the local dealer called a "Radial force balance". $100 and it made the front shake so severely at ~60 mph I had to go to my local Conrad's and have it re-balanced (smooth now) as I have to go 45 miles to the dealer.
The Radial force balance was a joke... I called and requested my money back. I'll let you know if they pay as they said they would.
Needless to say, I still have the intermittent rumble from the rear end area. ~35 to 40 mph and it shakes the entire Santa Fe. If I hold that speed it will continue to vibrate, maybe for a minute and then go away.
I think it's coming from the drive train. Lots of oil present at differential, but everyone thinks wheels, etc.
The hard part is to get it to do it for the tech. They just drive it. The 1st tech drove at 65 (after I told them it only does it at ~35) and noticed a vibration so he rotated the front wheels... not noticing the front lower ball joints were bad 'duh'( not all service people are pros.
No one can find the problem yet. All the obvious has been done several times (thanks to Conrad's for the correct wheel balance) I have another appointment on Aug 31 for another try with the shotgun... the only problem is I'm at 96600 miles with the Hyundai 100K warranty. The dealer said if I go over that repaired or not, I pay at 100,001.

#1413 of 1934 Re: 2002 Santa Fe rear end noise. [bw3] by jcspohr

Aug 30, 2006 (10:35 am)

Replying to: bw3 (Aug 30, 2006 8:12 am)
bw3,
 
Sorry to hear that it's not resolved. Looking on the bright side, you know what it is not. Sometimes trouble shooting comes down to the process of elimination.
 
Since the wheels are balanced properly:
 
Have the front and rear wheels been rotated front to back? That would eliminate the cause being a wheel.
 
Considering your comment about oil leakage, mileage and warranty expiration, I would take it to the dealer and have them open up and inspect the rear differential.
 
You might also investigate the lemon laws for your state. You might have a course of action there if you have had it in to dealer for repairs and meet the criteria.
 
Cover Your Assets as they say.
 
Good luck,
 
JCS

#1414 of 1934 Re: 2002 Santa Fe rear end noise. [bw3] by axis_roll

Aug 31, 2006 (5:10 am)

Replying to: bw3 (Aug 30, 2006 8:12 am)
Is this a 4-wheel drive Santa Fe? Is so, a drive shaft balance issue might be the cause. The presence of oil suggests a seal leak/failure somewhere, which could indicate a bad wheel bearing/axle bearing (is so equiped, I am not THAT up-to-date on the workings of the Santa Fe drive train/suspension). I bring this up since, as someone already pointed out, the obvious causes have been proven not to be the cause.
 
Good luck

#1415 of 1934 well, I have front end noise by michaelw2

Aug 31, 2006 (8:33 pm)

Replying to: axis_roll (Aug 31, 2006 5:10 am)
the dealer inspected , and did not find the problem, i am living with it.
 
recently when I just pick up after full stop, just at very low speed( almost zero), a "dung" sound is always there.
and after that, everything ok, anyone have same experience? is that the normal or problem with driving train or brake or 4x4 system ? thanks.

#1416 of 1934 Santa Fe Engine Problem -- Valve? by joblack

Sep 01, 2006 (5:54 am)

Has anyone had a problem with a valve in the engine? If so, how expensive is this to get fixed? Thanks

#1417 of 1934 Re: Sluggish Engine and "missing" sound [chrisducati] by dessie

Sep 03, 2006 (12:54 pm)

Replying to: chrisducati (Aug 18, 2006 10:32 am)
Thanks chrisducati. SF on the way for a check with the dealer on Thursday.
D

#1418 of 1934 Re: electric lock trouble [juls4] by dcbarry

Sep 05, 2006 (1:55 pm)

Replying to: juls4 (Nov 05, 2005 7:22 pm)
Juls:
 
Wondering how your sistuation worked out. Minie is similar. 2002 Sanata Fe, when I hit the remote it makes a "noise" but does not actually unlock, I have to use the key to open the hatch.
 
Anyone has a smiliar problem, or done a self repair? I'm well out of bumper to bumper due to milage. 110K+
 
d.

#1419 of 1934 Re: 2002 Santa Fe rear end noise. [bw3] by jpanozzo1

Sep 05, 2006 (1:55 pm)

Replying to: bw3 (Aug 30, 2006 8:12 am)
Pay the dealer with Mastercard or VISA. If the work is substandard, write the credit card company explaining the issue. They will force the dealer (or any retailer accepting their cards) to either do the work correctly or refund your money. The credit card companies have a lot more clout than an individual customer!!!
 
Joe in Texarkana

#1420 of 1934 Re: Windshield noise [user777] by sprintrps

Sep 11, 2006 (7:41 am)

Replying to: user777 (Aug 01, 2006 10:18 am)
I had a whistle also, on my '07 Santa Fe. I found that it was caused by the wind passing through the space between the bottom of the mirror and the mounting bracket. I fixed it by inserting a piece of velcro (the smooth side) between the mirror and the bracket. I used a toothpick to push it into this tight space. Whistling noise was eliminated.

#1421 of 1934 Re: Santa fe Hard Starting by jowens1972

Sep 11, 2006 (9:36 am)

Replying to: kennyjohn (Apr 13, 2006 6:38 pm)
I had problems with my Santa Fe 3.5L starting hard. After it would start it would run very rough. This was not after a gas fill up. If your problem is only after gas refills you should investigate this that I found on another website:
Your purge control valve is probably stuck open. Under normal operation, the ECM (Engine Control Module) opens and closes this valve when you're driving to burn off excess fuel vapors. If it's stuck open, the a large amount of vapors will be pushed out of the tank and into the engine when you fuel, causing the engine to be flooded.
 
My solution which has been working great for a week is to replace the fuel pressure sensor. The box is labelled:
35301 37100
Regulator- Delivery pipe press(ure)
$35 to $55
 
This is a do it yourself project that will take about 15 minutes.
-Remove the plastic engine cover (6 10mm bolts)
-Disconnect the 1,3,5 spark plug leads from the distributor cap (they are going to the back engine spark plugs) and from the two guides.
-When looking at the engine to the right between the two (front and rear) intake manifold ports is a 1/2" black fuel line that leads to the pressure sensor. Another way to locate the sensor is to look for a black 1/4" vacuum pressure line coming from the rear intake manifold port. A third location tip is just before the second spark plug wire guide (moving away from the distributor).
-It is recommended to remove the fuel pump pressure relay and run the engine until it quits to remove the fuel pressure. I was unable to locate this so I put a rag under the pressure sensor and SLOWLY loosened the bolts.
-When removing the 2 10mm bolts that hold the pressure sensor in be VERY careful not to drop the lower bolt. To help locate the sensor, the bolts are going into the right side of the intake manifold. The bolts are not pointed toward you.
-Again, I slowly loosened the bolts and wiggled the sensor to let the pressure release prior to fully removing the bolts. The fuel will be coming from the manifold, not the fuel line.
-Re-attach the fuel line and vacuum pressure lines to the new sensor. Replacement of the fuel line and vacuum line was not required on my vehicle.
 
I would highly recommend if you have an air compressor that you blow A LOT of air in the area where the gasoline may have fallen to vent the fumes and remove the gasoline prior to engine start.
 
The first engine start will be a little hard since the fuel pressure must be re-established.
 
I am not a mechanic, just a guy happy to save $75 in labor costs.

Messages Page 143 of 195

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