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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair

5134 messages,  Last post on May 20, 2013 at 1:06 PM

You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Forum.

What is this discussion about? Jeep Grand Cherokee, Jeep Cherokee, SUV

    

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Messages Page 509 of 514

#5078 of 5134 check the security sensors by wpatters

May 25, 2012 (8:48 am)

I have seen this with my neighbors car. There is a hood switch along the edge of the hood that sometimes is broken or right on the edge of switching and the slightest jar will set it off. You did not say if the horn was on solid or going off and on like a security breach.

#5079 of 5134 Re: Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited [pjga24] by loosenut

May 25, 2012 (9:40 am)

Replying to: pjga24 (May 25, 2012 6:41 am)
my -98's alarm would go off in the middle of the night,also the battery would drain for no aparent reason..
--on a suggestion from this verry board,i disconnected the sensor for the back window-aparently,this sensor was glued on during assembly,and after twenty-some years,the glue breaks down..have seen more than my jeep do this,and i try to tell them what i did..nothing more aggrevating than be shopping,and your truck is screaming in the parking lot..
  after i unplugged that sensor,i've had three years without trouble!!

#5080 of 5134 2 issues with '11 JGC Overland by strokeoluck2

May 25, 2012 (5:07 pm)

Two issues/questions on my 2011 JGC:
  
 1) Does anyone else have a "squeaking" driver's seat? My JGC has 20,000 (easy) miles on it, and it makes little, but noticeable, squeaks or creaking noises whenever I take a corner or adjust in the seat. Frankly it sounds like poor workmanship, but I don't really see a "bolt" or anything to easily tighten that would solve the problem. We have a 2008 Honda Pilot with 100,000 (harder) miles on it, and no squeaks in the seats; same with my previous vehicle - an '05 Acura TL with ~85,000 miles. I'm scratching my head over this problem. It's still under warranty, but I don't see how the dealer is going to fix this; and even if they replace the seat, my hunch is Jeep will replace it with one of equal quality.
  
 2) The Goodyear Fortera's are HORRIBLE in heavy rain - I mean HORRIBLE!!! It's a little better in snow, but still pales in comparison to our Honda Pilot. I've never experienced anything like it. For now I'm chalking it up to the tires, and not blaming Jeep (though I've shared my concern with their corporate office). What happens during heavy rains is that when I hit any sort of pooled water in the road (and we're not talking Noah's Ark type of water...we're talking a minor low spot in the road that accumulates maybe 1" or so of water), the Jeep pulls hard to the side of the road with the water. And I'm talking HARD. When I first encountered this my son and I were driving back from up north towing our boat behind us, in a rain storm (again, heavy rain, but not biblical proportions). We hit a puddle in the highway going ~55 mph and I thought the wheel was ripped out of my hands it cranked so hard and so fast. No other vehicles in front of us reacted like ours, and I watched the headlights behind us for quite a while, and no other vehicles reacted the same way. Has anyone else had any issues with these Fortera's? If so, what did you switch to, and what's working well for tires?
  
 Thanks.

#5081 of 5134 Re: Panoramic moon roof and soft roof top cargo carrier [mikeyp53] by strokeoluck2

May 28, 2012 (6:39 pm)

Replying to: mikeyp53 (Feb 06, 2012 10:55 am)
"I would never own a car with a moonroof again. They all leak eventually."
 
Everyone's experience may differ. I've had several vehicles with moonroofs, and all had >100,000 miles - never had an issue with them. And this isn't including my 1979 Ford Pinto with a sunroof - never had a problem with that thing either!

#5082 of 5134 Re: fuel pump [linr] by dragon5126

Jun 17, 2012 (7:08 pm)

Replying to: linr (Jan 04, 2012 8:13 am)
It's not likely the issue is the fuel pump BUT one that CAN affect the pump. What you need to do is NOT fun but is necessary. Get a hold of a good service book, factory, chiltons,haynes or similar, and follow the instructions to drop the fuel tank. Completely disconnect it and pull it out. Hopefully it's a poly tank and not metal. Pull the pump and sending unit and Flush the tank with a good WATER BASED degreaser, and rinse with HOT WATER and then FLUSH with SEVERAL GALLONS OF ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL to remove any water that is left in the tank. Dump the alcohol and let the tank dry completely. It isnt fun btu from the sounds of thing you have got dirt in your tank that is causing problems. No telling from where, bad fuel to bad vandals in the neighborhood. Meanwhile, you need to ensure your fuel pumpis flushed... run the same water based degreaser in a five gallon pail and submerge the fuel pump just like it would be in the tank and apply power to it with a makeshift outlet hose to clean it out pump as much of the degereaser through it as you can, repeat with clear hot water to rinse and then CAREFULLY fill the pump with alcohol to displace any residual water... Next flush your fuel line from the tank side to the filter (leave the filter out and the line open) to clean the tank side of the fuel line. Replace the filter. Reinstall the pump and sending unit in the DRY tank, and reinstall the tank. NOW add a few gallons of E85 fuel ONLY, and start the engine, do NOT put it under a load, the E85 is mostly alcohol and is only there to ensure any left over water or degreaser does not cause problems. when the engine has been running for a handful of minutes, add 5 gallons of high quality gasoline, and drive to a REPUTEABLE station and fill it up as you normally would, avoid any stations you may have used in the past unless the reputation is high. Like I stated earlier, you either had contaminants put directly into your tank or they came in the fuel you used. A third un noted possibility is if you have a metal tank, it is about to rust through.

#5083 of 5134 Re: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L Fan Relay Location [mrspanky] by 04wj_jeep

Jul 01, 2012 (6:03 pm)

Replying to: mrspanky (Jul 26, 2009 7:10 am)
Great info mrspanky user.
 
I have an 04 WJ as well, the AC has been giving me some work lately.
In relation to the Fan Relay, mine is not located under the passenger's side headlight, mine is a 2WD standard package. I did see the 2 relays near the battery, but decided not to touch them, instead I hot wired the fan.
The fan was not spinning (mine has a 3 pin connector as well), so I decided to take out the fan completely and buy a replacement (either fan or motor only). Once out I hot wired the motor only, to my surprised it spinned.
So I disassembled the motor entirely, notice you need to be careful putting it back together. The purpose was to clean it from the inside, I assembled it again and tested it, I was again surprised by an annoying noise from the motor on both speeds (yes the 3 pin connector means 2 speeds).
So I unassembled the motor again (fan motor, is the only motor I am making reference to), and found out one of the inside field poles (lets call them poles) was positioned incorrectly. I put clean it all over again, I used some wd40 to make the moving parts move smooth, and I also notice the poles are a little worn (2 of them, there are 4), so I am guessing the motor is about to fail.
 
Continuing, I assembled the motor, and tested it, worked fine.
Put it inside the fan shroud, tested it, worked fine.
Assembled the fan, tested it again, worked fine.
Assembled the entire fan in the jeep, plug it in, and worked fine.
So I installed only 3 screws, that last one everyone hates to take out can screw itself, because I am not going to...
why? something tells me is going to happen again, the fain will fail, I think is dying.
So, the fan is working ok right now, the AC is engaging normally, and the temperature is staying below the 210 degrees mark.
 
cost. $0, just a little scratch on my right hand finger.
 
However, I did change the oil, air filter, and thermostat.
Thinking the thermostat was the reason. I must tell you, I used the commercial kind before, the temperature was reaching a little over 210 before it cool down. This time I went Mopar only (both thermostat and gasket), and spot on.. 195 degrees,and it kicks in.
I also got spark plugs while at the dealer (I got a straight 6, so that's the next project, the advantage about the Mopar plugs, they are already calibrated to the WJ specs).
Thermostat, gasket, and 6 plugs, about $60
Oil (premium fully synthetic), K&N oil filter, and Fram air filter $55.
 
Next weekend, flush radiator and change spark plugs.... hopefully only labor.
 
Thanks for reading, and happy work out in your jeeps fellas !!!

#5084 of 5134 front side marker lights by mr_smith

Jul 18, 2012 (11:45 am)

Help! I have a 2006 JGC Laredo. I need to change the front SIDE marker light. How do I get to it?? I read somewhere else that I have to go under the fender in front of the tire. Is that true or is there another way??

#5085 of 5134 water pump issues 1995 JGC Laredo 4.0 by kmfdm667

Jul 22, 2012 (5:56 am)

i have a 1995 JGC Laredo 4.0 i noticed i am leaking coolant from the water pump i tracked the leak to the bottom of the water pump where the hose connects but the thing is i had the water pump and thermostat replaced around 3 years ago over the last 2 years i have replaced the bottom hose and radiator is it normal to have to replace a water pump that soon or could it be a bad gasket or should i give the place that replaced a call its not overheating or anything like that yet but i dont want it to get to that point im stumped thanks in advance for your time

#5086 of 5134 Re: water pump issues 1995 JGC Laredo 4.0 [kmfdm667] by mikeyp53

Jul 22, 2012 (9:38 am)

Replying to: kmfdm667 (Jul 22, 2012 5:56 am)
It is not unusual for a water pump to fail in three years but usually the tell tale leak is from the bearing weep hole, not the bottom of the housing. Coolant can travel funny ways. I would suspect its the gasket, if its coming from the bottom of the housing. I replaced the water pump on my 2004 JGC last month for $50. The new (not rebuilt) pump has a lifetime warranty(Advanced Auto Parts), you can buy the gasket separately for less than $10, or goo it up with permatex and reinstall. If you had it replaced at a garage and have your receipt, see what the warranty terms are. My guess is they replaced it with a rebuilt pump which has a one or two year warranty. Good luck, but you are smart to repair it before it fails and overheats and ruins your engine.

Messages Page 509 of 514

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